Engine cutting out/stalling!!

Glanza-geordie

Fresh Recruit
Hey everyone, got a problem with my glanza once the engine warms up it keeps cutting out when I pull up to traffic lights/junction! I have already changed ICV, changed plugs, checked all vacuum hoses and set up TPS! Anything else I could try? Thanks
 

Liam_D

Member +
my old n/a used to do this,check the inlet manifold gasket mate. If theres a small hole in it than thats your problem.
 

milooo

Member +
Hey everyone, got a problem with my glanza once the engine warms up it keeps cutting out when I pull up to traffic lights/junction! I have already changed ICV, changed plugs, checked all vacuum hoses and set up TPS! Anything else I could try? Thanks

When you start it up does the engine management light come on and drives like its kangarooing struggling for fuel?
 

Glanza-geordie

Fresh Recruit
When you start it up does the engine management light come on and drives like its kangarooing struggling for fuel?

Nope runs fine, changed manifold gasket, still the same! Check the compressions there all fine. Tb? Throttle body? Cleaned that and inlet Mani when I changed the gasket.
 

-BenGTTurbo-

Member +
Mine does this now and again... Ill pull up at a junction / traffic lights and the revs just drop right off and the car stalls. Only does this like 2 times a month tho
 

Rev

Member +
King lead. If you have a multimeter check the resistance of the lead/s. I found my king lead was 5.25 ohm engine idle was rough , put an old one that was 2.5ohm . The car now accelerates smoothly without hesitation.
 

dark_knight

Member +
king lead

@Rev: king lead..? really..? that's an interesting one.. :)
shouldn't he check all the leads in that case then..?
 

Rev

Member +
@Rev: king lead..? really..? that's an interesting one.. :)
shouldn't he check all the leads in that case then..?


Yes I did say lead/s. But if you think about the king lead resistance gets added to each leads resistance. So you can fix a bad performing lead by keeping the total resistance within spec. If you want to do it properly Texx has the perfect post where he shows how to test the resistance from the distributor right through through to the leads.

Please note if the shortest lead is failing badly it can have high resistance but when I tested my spark plug leads they followed the usual pattern you would expect that is as the leads get longer the resistance goes up .
About a year ago they were 5.0 5.25 5.95 10.19 ohm so the other day when I changed the king lead I saved a total of 2.75 ohm. I have ngk spec 2-8 ohm cables the 10.19 ohm should be no more than 8 ohm I brought it back to spec by 10.19-2.75 = 7.44 ohm when I changed the king lead and the car came alive. From what I have read 16 ohm is normal and must change at 20 ohms but maybe this includes the distributer resistance as it this does not work for my starlet 15.44ohm leads only ( 10.19+5.25 ohm) was a big problem.

Obviously I should check resistances and change the 10.19 ohm lead and get even better performance but I have been having trouble finding a set that fit my ep82 distributer. I found if you are time poor changing the King lead can get you out of trouble. My plan is to change the longest and the king lead to Australian copper ( with a some shielding ) and hopefully never touch them again.

EDIT : Now have discovered my alternator fuse had grease and dirt on it ; cleaned the contacts and gained 100 rpm. Next have finally replaced all leads with new low resistance ones , much better smoother faster reving and more responsive than my temporary fix.
 
Last edited:

dark_knight

Member +
lead resistances

@Rev: that's very good intel. will check mine out next time i have some spare time and courage to remove my tmic.. :( ..sigh..
repped! :)
 
Top