fuel cut defenders; how they work..

TO82

Member +
Depends what you want from the car, overall as said above the HKS is suited to a FCD/FPR setup and will also allow fuel cut to occur if an overboost past your desired boost level is reached, and would be my choice over a clamp type (JAM) FCD.

I believe the JAM type setups where to accomodate there actuators which ran 1 Bar in High boost mode, meaning you could fit both actuator and FCD run 1 bar and leave the fueling components stock, inturn using the factory injection map for 0.8bar at between 0.8-1.0 bar obviously leaning off as the boost increases, but due to the factory ECU running rich, once the engine is at 1.0bar boost the AFR value was still safe. Obviously if your car has an over boost for whatever reason the ECU is still seeing 0.8 bar boost and therefore would end up causing damage once the boost starts to rise way above 1.0bar.
 

Paul_JJ

Member +
so lukep, assuming all factors held constant, the stock ecu and all affiliated fueling management accessories can cope with about 0.85bar, right..?

Anything over 0.8 bar will lead to fuel cut. Better keep it just under 0.8 bar! You don't need FCD unless you go over 0.8 Bar, but never put FCD unless you have sorted the fuelling first either FPR or Bigger Injectors.

I plan to go the FCD way myself, I know it's not the best way, but i'm not spending any money on piggyback or ecu - to run standard turbo - it's a waste of money in my opinion. But it is important to get the fuelling done right - so the car has to go on the dyno, to make sure everything is good.

What other mods have you got? It's a very bad idea running more than 0.8 bar of boost on the standard top mount or any top mount, especially in Kenya - as it's very hot climate.
 

dark_knight

Member +
setup, as it stands

well, sir Paul_JJ, i've done quite some work on the chariot. in relation to engine aspiration and affiliated components, i have a fmic, high-flow a'pexi intake, high-flow kakimoto exhaust, de-cat, custom catch-can and so planning on running 0.9bar until i can get a RRFPR and proli bathroom taps for injectors.. :D
 

Paul_JJ

Member +
well, sir Paul_JJ, i've done quite some work on the chariot. in relation to engine aspiration and affiliated components, i have a fmic, high-flow a'pexi intake, high-flow kakimoto exhaust, de-cat, custom catch-can and so planning on running 0.9bar until i can get a RRFPR and proli bathroom taps for injectors.. :D

So you want to stick FCD and run 0.9Bar without increasing the fuel pressure?
 

russyb

Member +
hi i got a lot of interest in this post
as im currently running a rrfpr and hks fcd system, im running around the 1bar mark.
ive also got a relocated air filter a rx7 top mount a Fujitsubo regalis R back cat exhaust, free flowing mani, decat and baileys dv26 dump valve oh and a hybrid ct9 turbo.
obvously i have loads more mods but this is the basic setup just to give you an idea

my question is this after reading the posts above, is it safe for me to go above the 1bar mark or to keep it running safe should i try to keep it at 1bar
 

Paul_JJ

Member +
hi i got a lot of interest in this post
as im currently running a rrfpr and hks fcd system, im running around the 1bar mark.
ive also got a relocated air filter a rx7 top mount a Fujitsubo regalis R back cat exhaust, free flowing mani, decat and baileys dv26 dump valve oh and a hybrid ct9 turbo.
obvously i have loads more mods but this is the basic setup just to give you an idea

my question is this after reading the posts above, is it safe for me to go above the 1bar mark or to keep it running safe should i try to keep it at 1bar

Keep it at 1 bar, you risk other problems increasing the boost, not to mention that it wouldn't make a lot of a difference between 1 bar and 1.1 bar - Especially with TOP mount!
 

russyb

Member +
haha yeah i may change that at some point but was originally only gonna run at 1bar, but been bitten by the power bug a little i guess
 

dark_knight

Member +
boost & beans

i'm planning on 0.9bar, a RRFPR and bigger injectors.. & people seem to forget that boost control is also done by your right foot.. and no engine ever lives on full boost for longer than a few seconds each time -- unless it's a drag car :) -- not saying there isn't any risk, just helping people understand that you don't blow your engine the first 1.5 seconds after you run 0.1bar boost more than the factory preset.. :p nah'mean.. :)
 
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