Fuel cut problems

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Nick_Glanza

Fresh Recruit
Afternoon all,

I have a white ep91 glanza, just removed the hi/lo boost solenoid and now i have a fuel cut problem when giving it some beans!
What is the way round this?

Thanks

Nick
 
350ep70gr

350ep70gr

Member +
Fuel Cut Defender is the solution in your problem. Also keep in mind that you have to upgrade fuelling if you alter the boost level. Maybe fpr and fuell pupm would be a good idea.
 
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Nick_Glanza

Fresh Recruit
So to rectify the problem i need a fuel cut defender and a fpr? who would sell these parts, had a quick scan on google and keeps coming up with toyota celice fcd's etc!
 
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Toby@ToyTuning.com

Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
As Dan said I wouldn't go down the route of FPR and Pump quite yet, it's not as simple as just fitting and forgetting the FPR needs to be set on the dyno.

Removing hi/lo will always add a few psi so best to get an adjustable actuator, the stock ones become week over time anyway. With the actuator you can counteract mods you make and reduce the boost so that you don't hit fuel cut much simpler and cheaper.

I wouldn't even bother going over fuel cut until much later, make the most out of what you have already. At the end of the day the stock ECU is perfectly safe under fuel cut so leave it under fcut, start concentrating next on chassis and brakes as this can add performance without physically adding bhp, see where I'm coming from? Once you've done all this you can consider going above but regardless a FPR alone is pretty crude and not the way we do things personally, ideally you need some sort of fuel controller/management. As Dan said list what you have as you may already have one.

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Toby@ToyTuning.com

Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
What about intercooler. stock top mount? You are running too much boost, get either one of our TT actuators or a HKS one and reduce the boost down to 10psi, trim the last 1psi with the EBC and leave it there. You can't reduce boost unless you get one as you are already spiking, is the EBC at the lowest setting? 11psi is more than enough, then start to think about the chassis, brakes and making the car lighter.

The lighter the car the more bhp/tonne you can achieve and the faster the car will be. Once you've done all this save for a little and get a good fuel controller/piggy back ECU, a FPR kit, a Walbro pump (you could get a walbro now won't harm it) and book some dyno time for a rolling road session, best way IMO.

FPR's alone are pretty shite in my eyes, yes you can get it safe but hardly an optimal tune.

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GTdan

In The Closet
presume still on standard manifold too??

reduce boost on boost controller to around 0.7/0.8 bar - which is under fuel cut.

running anything over fuel cut on a standard engine gets no 3 very warm and will lead to a new engine.
 
Beaker

Beaker

Member +
Bin the airfilter and put the standard air box back in place with a decent panel filter Theres a good chance that would cure you of boost spiking. Or reconnect the solenoid as you will not be doing the car any good if you keep hitting fuel cut.
 
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Toby@ToyTuning.com

Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
That is what I'm thinking Dan maybe his controller is at the lowest setting we need to know, if it is he won't be able to go any lower without an adj actuator. If it's not at the lowest setting he can turn it down. Let us know Nick...

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Nick_Glanza

Fresh Recruit
As far as suspension goes, i have ordered some tein coilovers from a local jap tuner and hes also sorting me wilwood 4 pots!

the ebc isnt at its lowest setting! so a good actuator and lower the boost down again and i should be okay, i have been reading up on hks power fc units, ap tuning is able to map it etc, but thats a few months off at the moment!
 
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Toby@ToyTuning.com

Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Beaker said:
Bin the airfilter and put the standard air box back in place with a decent panel filter Theres a good chance that would cure you of boost spiking. Or reconnect the solenoid as you will not be doing the car any good if you keep hitting fuel cut.
Click to expand...

I don't think he is running a relocated filter mate, may be wrong not much info on specs. You could just re-connect the solenoid though good point and won't cost anything although the stock hi/lo is pretty primitive, just a electronic bleed valve and slows actuator response times.
 
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Toby@ToyTuning.com

Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Nick_Glanza said:
As far as suspension goes, i have ordered some tein coilovers from a local jap tuner and hes also sorting me wilwood 4 pots!

the ebc isnt at its lowest setting! so a good actuator and lower the boost down again and i should be okay, i have been reading up on hks power fc units, ap tuning is able to map it etc, but thats a few months off at the moment!
Click to expand...

Then just turn the boost down lol! ::slap: :):)


Consider an actuator at some point as you will get better response due to a stronger spring but regardless if it's holding boost fine then the stock is okay for now!

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Nick_Glanza

Fresh Recruit
Thanks everyone for your help, very much appreciated!
I shall now go and turn the boost down to 0.8 bar and enjoy it for a little while :)

Nick
 
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GTdan

In The Closet
Nick_Glanza said:
Sorry for my lack of knowledge about these little cars, only had it 3 weeks!
Click to expand...


no worries dude.

what ever the actuator is set at, your boost controller cannot go lower than it.

example - actuator set at .8 bar, you can set your boost controller to lowest setting it will still boost at.8, but you can adjust the boost controller to go anywhere above the 0.8bar.

so aslong as its the standard actuator on the car - you should be able to turn the boost down to around 0.7 and not hit fuel cut.
 
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