Glanza S been a bitch...

toyotagt

toyotagt

Member +
well lads.... 2 Things,,
First one is about starting it...


have a glanza s here,
in the morning when its cold it wont start at all unless you pump the accelerator!
when it starts and you keep pumping it wont go over 1k for a while,
then it will start to get higher, but spluttery, and when you leave off and give full throttle it slowish splutters to 4-5 (as far as u bring it)...

if i keep doin this for about a minute its like as if it clears its self and it perfect after that,
it will rev out perfect and you can turn it off and it will start again on its own perfect,,,



i put new plugs in it and i used red-ex injector cleaner incase, but that made no difference, all plug leads are fine and not corroded, ita a glanza s so it doesnt have a dissy..


the 2nd one is the engine light..


the engine management light is on and i got code 22 and code 24, for ats (24) i found the plug on airbox wasnt plugged in, but for cts(22) there is only one sensor on the thermo housing, pluged in and not corroded, should i take it out and clean it or would yee think its a wire from the connector back up the line somewhere?

i reset the light but it came back on. and after a bit of driving went off again. then when stopped and started again it came back on!


for the light i think mose people will just say check wires around it!, but check from where to where? and should i clean the sensor incase inside is corroded or dirty?

and about starting it, even with the light on its perfect after the 1 min of revving it,,
any one have this before? and any ideas on whats wrong and what to do? thanks.....
 
dac69er

dac69er

Super Moderator
sounds like classic coolant sensor problem. either the sensor is a goner or you have a wiring problem.
 
toyotagt

toyotagt

Member +
dac69er said:
sounds like classic coolant sensor problem. either the sensor is a goner or you have a wiring problem.
Click to expand...

well the car was perfect all along, one barely ever drivin so not as if its gettin drivin the shite out of it,,

would the temp sensor have anything to do about the starting of it or just the light?

i dont mind the light been on for now, cos i know its the sensor, i mite swap it for my one and see it light goes off,

i reli want to no about the starting prob. thanks.
 
dac69er

dac69er

Super Moderator
sounds like that sensor mate tbh. that does give cold start problems. if you dont eliminate it then you can never be sure what the problem is. if you get it so you have no ecu error codes then you can work from there.
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
Code 22 indicates either a open or short in the coolant temp. sensor circuit. The sensor is a negative coefficient thermistor, basically this means that as the coolant heats up the electrical resistance of the sensor decreases and as the coolant cools down the electrical resistance of the sensor increases. Code 22 will generally be caused by either a wiring fault (being a break in the wiring (open circuit) or the signal wire grounding somewhere (short circuit)) or an internal sensor fault again being either an open or short.

The quickest way to check the wiring is to pull the connector from the sensor, it should have 2 pins. One pin will be grounded through the ECU (E2 sensor ground) the other will be a 5v feed from the VCC circuit in the ECU. With the ignition on and using a multimeter set to 20v DC, check for 5v across the both pins. If you've got 5v then the chances are the wiring is good and the sensor is at fault.
 
toyotagt

toyotagt

Member +
Texx said:
Code 22 indicates either a open or short in the coolant temp. sensor circuit. The sensor is a negative coefficient thermistor, basically this means that as the coolant heats up the electrical resistance of the sensor decreases and as the coolant cools down the electrical resistance of the sensor increases. Code 22 will generally be caused by either a wiring fault (being a break in the wiring (open circuit) or the signal wire grounding somewhere (short circuit)) or an internal sensor fault again being either an open or short.

The quickest way to check the wiring is to pull the connector from the sensor, it should have 2 pins. One pin will be grounded through the ECU (E2 sensor ground) the other will be a 5v feed from the VCC circuit in the ECU. With the ignition on and using a multimeter set to 20v DC, check for 5v across the both pins. If you've got 5v then the chances are the wiring is good and the sensor is at fault.
Click to expand...



thanks texx, i hate wiring so could you tell me, where do i put the red and black pin from the multi meter?black earth and red on connector pin? or do i only use the 1?

and what do i do with ecu? plug out and put black on pin e2? and red on one of the sensor pins, and set it to the beep if they touch?

and would you think that the car wont start with resistance not reading right?

or would you think i have a broken wire and the auto choke/cold start wont start the car wen cold?
ill check tomoro wat i can make out from the reply..
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
I can't be 100% sure with a Glanza S, but I would presume that when you pull the connector from the coolant temperature sensor it'll have 2 pins. Simply set your meter to 20v DC, switch the ignition on (no need to start the engine) and connect the red probe to one pin of the connector and the black probe to the other. It won't matter which way round you connect the probes as the meter will compensate, if they're the wrong way round the meter will just give a negative voltage reading, it's the reading that's important not whether it's positive or negative.

You don't need to touch the ECU connectors, this is all done at the 2 pins in the coolant temperature sensor connector.

For cold start enrichment, the ECU compares the intake air temperature and coolant temperature. When they both read near enough the same the ECU knows the engine is running cold and fuels accordingly. When there is a open or short in the coolant temperature sensor circuit and the ECU flags it with code 22, it'll substitute a default value (IIRC it's something like 20°C) so it can continue to make look ups from it's fuel table and keep the engine running. Without the correct coolant temperature the ECU will not fuel correctly and this would be more noticeable when starting the engine from cold and fuel enrichment is required.
 
toyotagt

toyotagt

Member +
Texx said:
I can't be 100% sure with a Glanza S, but I would presume that when you pull the connector from the coolant temperature sensor it'll have 2 pins. Simply set your meter to 20v DC, switch the ignition on (no need to start the engine) and connect the red probe to one pin of the connector and the black probe to the other. It won't matter which way round you connect the probes as the meter will compensate, if they're the wrong way round the meter will just give a negative voltage reading, it's the reading that's important not whether it's positive or negative.

You don't need to touch the ECU connectors, this is all done at the 2 pins in the coolant temperature sensor connector.


For cold start enrichment, the ECU compares the intake air temperature and coolant temperature. When they both read near enough the same the ECU knows the engine is running cold and fuels accordingly. When there is a open or short in the coolant temperature sensor circuit and the ECU flags it with code 22, it'll substitute a default value (IIRC it's something like 20°C) so it can continue to make look ups from it's fuel table and keep the engine running. Without the correct coolant temperature the ECU will not fuel correctly and this would be more noticeable when starting the engine from cold and fuel enrichment is required.
Click to expand...


hi, there is 3 wires on the coolent temp sensor, and idea what probe to put where? and should it sear the 5 v
 
toyotagt

toyotagt

Member +
ok, i checked wires acrsss the 3, on one im getting 9 and the other 2 im getting 4.7, but i pulled off the connector on my working glanza and its the same, so i went to start my glanza with the plug off, and wouldnt start, and started straight away when i plugged it in, so im guessing that the sensor is dead and i think that could be the problem solved :)

thanks for the replys..
 
Sheldon

Sheldon

Malta Area Rep.
sorry to hijack,

Texx can you PM me your e-mail i need some help regarding electronics on EP91. as i cannot PM you.

thanks,

Sheldon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top