Heat Management
- Thread starter omikron
- Start date
Seems like its worth fitting exhaust wrap as that seemed to reduce under bonnet temps the most.
Ceramic coatings are expensive but would be good to see what kind of improvement they would make. I have one of the largest and well known ceramic coating companies 1 min drive away from me.
Ceramic coatings are expensive but would be good to see what kind of improvement they would make. I have one of the largest and well known ceramic coating companies 1 min drive away from me.
jayc-glanza17
Fresh Recruit
wud that be zircotec adam??
ive contemplated ceramic coating..
but surely improving heat escaping like a cruise bonnet, and better ventilation into engine bay should be a first step..
ive contemplated ceramic coating..
but surely improving heat escaping like a cruise bonnet, and better ventilation into engine bay should be a first step..
Yes Jay, Zircotec is like half a mile away from me mate.
I think ventilation into and out of the bay is a good start, but there is a lot more to it with pressure area's. I think the stock scoop is good, but the firewall area is a bit poor in terms of dissapating the dirty air. I might look into creating a plastic panel which will direct the dirty air upwards, couple this with the bonnet raised will probably dramatically reduce the temps around the intake manifold.
I think ventilation into and out of the bay is a good start, but there is a lot more to it with pressure area's. I think the stock scoop is good, but the firewall area is a bit poor in terms of dissapating the dirty air. I might look into creating a plastic panel which will direct the dirty air upwards, couple this with the bonnet raised will probably dramatically reduce the temps around the intake manifold.
I have been trying a few things too. I do have a ceramic coated manifold inside and out but temps are still very high under bonnet. Coating manifold pre turbo is also about keeping energy for better spool. Post turbo usually you want to lose energy so it is cooler into the intercooler.
My current improvement is wrapping FMIC pipe post intercooler about 60% leaving the front portions to pick up cool air behind the light and battery. In summary so far I have very good improvement in traffic and cruising up to 5 psi on days that are below ambient 25C the timing is much punchier. My intercooler is long route so picked up a lot of heat expecially when the radiator fan kicked in.
My approach is light weight and cheap. I have put aluminium foil on the pipe then wrapped felt cloth a single sheet slightly lapped ( 3mm thick wool blend for fire proof cost about $3 ) fixed this with cable ties large ones about 5mm thick about 100mm. Cut the ties tails then repeated , foil on the cable ties to craete an air gap then felt over then cable ties.
The science behind this is strong. I tested some engine heat shield corrigated aluminium both sides black rubber about 4mm thick inside specially for engines..
I used it as a roof shade in my sera on a 40C day it became scalding hot to touch and would burn my head.
I glued the above felt on a thin metal sheet on the other glass roof this shade was only warm to touch in the same conditions.
If you have done the calculations you will know heat is stopped better with air gaps and foil performs better with aiir spaces.
Essentially the Felt i chose was very sponge like so is an excellant insulator being light weight it contains no heat build up unlike the heavy heat shielding product so it heats up much later. I will probably add a heat shield to the above with air gaps to get better performance for higher temps and boost.
On heat mangement the above thread link confirms the science that hot objects loose more heat than cooler so hot side pipe adds a lot of heat to the engine bay but should not be wrapped. In fact the radiated heat will be proportional to the temperature squared. So a well designed hot side could get alot of heat out before it even reaches the intercooler it seems keeping this heat out of the engine bay, air filter and oil filter would be a good advantage.
My current improvement is wrapping FMIC pipe post intercooler about 60% leaving the front portions to pick up cool air behind the light and battery. In summary so far I have very good improvement in traffic and cruising up to 5 psi on days that are below ambient 25C the timing is much punchier. My intercooler is long route so picked up a lot of heat expecially when the radiator fan kicked in.
My approach is light weight and cheap. I have put aluminium foil on the pipe then wrapped felt cloth a single sheet slightly lapped ( 3mm thick wool blend for fire proof cost about $3 ) fixed this with cable ties large ones about 5mm thick about 100mm. Cut the ties tails then repeated , foil on the cable ties to craete an air gap then felt over then cable ties.
The science behind this is strong. I tested some engine heat shield corrigated aluminium both sides black rubber about 4mm thick inside specially for engines..
I used it as a roof shade in my sera on a 40C day it became scalding hot to touch and would burn my head.
I glued the above felt on a thin metal sheet on the other glass roof this shade was only warm to touch in the same conditions.
If you have done the calculations you will know heat is stopped better with air gaps and foil performs better with aiir spaces.
Essentially the Felt i chose was very sponge like so is an excellant insulator being light weight it contains no heat build up unlike the heavy heat shielding product so it heats up much later. I will probably add a heat shield to the above with air gaps to get better performance for higher temps and boost.
On heat mangement the above thread link confirms the science that hot objects loose more heat than cooler so hot side pipe adds a lot of heat to the engine bay but should not be wrapped. In fact the radiated heat will be proportional to the temperature squared. So a well designed hot side could get alot of heat out before it even reaches the intercooler it seems keeping this heat out of the engine bay, air filter and oil filter would be a good advantage.
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Heat energy will always flow from a hot surface to a cold surface, until the cold surface becomes equal to the hot surface where it is in a state of equilibrium.
The hot side pipe work as you rightly said should not be wrapped, purely because once the air leaves the turbocharger it has been compressed, this action adds heat, if you then insulate the hot pipe, that heat which has been added to the air through compression will not be able to radiate out to a colder surface. Meaning you will have to have a super efficient heat exchanger to rid of the heat through compressing air.
By the way I was talking about radiant heat as an example but for the whole system you are correct to consider conductive heat as well.
I was really wondering whether I should put the hotside in an air box that is veneted out of the engine bay. In a cold climate you can keep the air box cool it may work but your point about conduction is important. After all the engine bay is just a giant air box from the link above hot pipe gave off more than 53degF maybe on a hot day this temperature is better diluted in the engine bay rather than in a small box that will tend to insulate the pipes which is undesirable.
I was really wondering whether I should put the hotside in an air box that is veneted out of the engine bay. In a cold climate you can keep the air box cool it may work but your point about conduction is important. After all the engine bay is just a giant air box from the link above hot pipe gave off more than 53degF maybe on a hot day this temperature is better diluted in the engine bay rather than in a small box that will tend to insulate the pipes which is undesirable.
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