How does standard manifold kill engines?

stuart

Member +
Did you have any issue with it leaking/cracking or securing the turbo to it? I think I have my stock one kicking around and I might put it back on as my stainless one is rapidly fucking itself.

It never cracked, no. It was only ever a temporary measure, I think Sacha put up a post about standard mani's been ported.... And that they could perform as well as JAM mani's. Only problem is, how much you take off from the restriction, as it weakens it. I had a spare sat in garage that I ported a little bit too much. Nice 5p size hole in it, heh.
 

thefalls

Member +
Regarding all these talks about mild steel and stainless steel.
My question is, a s/s mani made from 321 or mild steel?
Which one is better in terms of NOT cracking?
Which would be better suited for heat wrapping? [heard s/s crack if heat wrapped?]
Kindly share your views.
Thanks.
 

Monkfish

Member +
Regarding all these talks about mild steel and stainless steel.
My question is, a s/s mani made from 321 or mild steel?
Which one is better in terms of NOT cracking?
Which would be better suited for heat wrapping? [heard s/s crack if heat wrapped?]
Kindly share your views.
Thanks.

Heat wrapped mild steel FTW.

Stainless is the better material if used correctly. However, you're looking at well in excess of £1000 for a properly constructed stainless manifold (Check the SARD one on RHDJapan) and the gains you get just don't warrant the cost.

Unless that is you're one of these bonnet-up, penis-waving, carpark whores. :homer:
 

thefalls

Member +
Thanks for the reply.
Is there anyone here who had a cracked s/s mani when heatwrapped?
What are the disadvantages of using a m/s compared to a s/s one?
 

Spoonz

Member +
I ran a ported one for quite awhile. :)

Self-port ftw!

best thing ever imo

Did you have any issue with it leaking/cracking or securing the turbo to it? I think I have my stock one kicking around and I might put it back on as my stainless one is rapidly fucking itself.

Also, I've just updated this post with a link back to this topic as it contains some useful information.

:)

i ported mine and my mates manifolds over 1 weekend u can take an awful lot of to be fair and it made alot of differance both cars ran 1bar with mine running 1.2 barfor a while (didnt relise ebc was playin up) mine was for about a year and his for about 6 months longer or so
 

Monkfish

Member +
Thanks for the reply.
Is there anyone here who had a cracked s/s mani when heatwrapped?
What are the disadvantages of using a m/s compared to a s/s one?
Mild steel rusts and doesn't look as nice as stainless after a while. Heatwrapping will keep it looking tidier. Still, I'd rather a rusty looking mild steel mani that's over a year old than a cracked stainless one sat in the garage because I've replaced it. Again.

So,m/s it is then?
Yarp. Dane's manifold is the only one that I know of on the market at the moment and he's offering a 1yr guarantee with it. Seems a decent bet to me.

:)
 

12345678

Member +
You might find that with the restriction removed, the stock manifold performs just as well as any aftermarket one.
x2

i fitted an aftermerket mani (made by a trader on the site) about a year ago now for a guy, and the runners had a smaller diameter than the stock runners, only difference was it didn't have the restriction.

i have ported a stock mani, and will be using it with weejohn's td04 adapter plate to see how it goes. runners 2 and 3 required the most work, also gave 1 and 4 a quick flow too. i'll have to get pics up when i go to fit it
 

GTnomez

Member +
well my sps m/s cracked and i got an oem manifold and ported it slightly (took way too long just to get a bit off!)

Now it boosts strong for some reason and no leaks even though i only used two nuts and bolts to connect the mani to the turbo! Mind you its only a temporary measure untill i get my sps one welded.

it boost strong to about 12 psi or so which i assume is .85 or summit. Now what is the limit of a standard mani? Is it fuel cut which is .85? as ill have to wind the actuator down untill i get my M/S one back one
 

12345678

Member +
i got an oem manifold and ported it slightly (took way too long just to get a bit off!)

i used a high speed air powered die grinder (same sort of idea as a dremel only industrial type) and my mate got me some hi speed bits (he's a metal fabricator) from his work. sorry i don't know the type but it takes around half an hour with these tools. i'll see if i can get some more info on the high speed bits
 
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