idle control valve trouble

G

gedis

Member +
lads i'm having trouble with my idle control valve, idle was perfect before car was striped out, i'm using aftermarket cams, intake manifold and throtle body, exact same setup as the last time as it was working, now only thing is its been secured horizontaly on the firewall compared to verticaly last year, but would that be making any difference?
also throtle position sensor has not been set up yet, would any of above be affecting it?
what voltage should be there at idle and what is dictating the voltage to it?
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
What engine management are you using and what's the problem your having?


gedis said:
its been secured horizontaly on the firewall compared to verticaly last year
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Have you modified the stock IACV to mount it externally from the inlet manifold? or are you using a different type of IACV?
 
G

gedis

Member +
Texx said:
What engine management are you using and what's the problem your having?




Have you modified the stock IACV to mount it externally from the inlet manifold? or are you using a different type of IACV?
Click to expand...

i have it mounted externaly, its a standart 4efte unit, using power fc, basicly everything is the same as year before, apart of mounting position and tps not being set up. car wont idle unles you hold the throtle slighly so i adjust throtle cable to keep buterfly open enough to idle, then when it warms up it has to be adjusted again to suit, also when revs drops from hard drivind revs drops so low that it cuts out, basicly is a pig to drive i have to tip gas pedal alot to keep her going, long time a go i ran her without IACV for few months and it was exact problem so i fitted factory one externaly and she was very lovely for idle, and reving, its defo fault in idle control valve, i need to know if any of above would efect it before i go away and buy a new one
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
When using the stock ECU the idle control valve is only pulsed when the idle switch in the TPS is closed, I'm guessing it'll be the same for the Power FC.
 
G

gedis

Member +
Texx said:
When using the stock ECU the idle control valve is only pulsed when the idle switch in the TPS is closed, I'm guessing it'll be the same for the Power FC.
Click to expand...

good man, i'll set up tps and try again so, any voltage figures for idle control valve when idle? as the wires coming to it had to be soldered to extend them, i want to make sure its getting corect voltage
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
The IDL terminal needs to be shorted to ground (E1) when the throttle is closed.


The middle and bottom pin of the TPS should have continuity when the throttle is closed.

TPSfixingscrews.jpg



If you pull off the TPS connector and link the middle and bottom terminals the engine should hopefully idle correctly.
 
G

gedis

Member +
still the same after linking them up, voltage is ~15.3 at the icv, althought found old icv from 5e cynos soon as i pluged that in i could feel by hand something ticking inside, so i said i hook up the rest of it and she's idling now perfect after that, turns out the old icv was dead
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
gedis said:
voltage is ~15.3 at the icv
Click to expand...

Think you may have an alternator voltage regulator problem, it certainly wants checking anyway. 15v is about as high as you'd want to see the charging voltage reach during engine warm up, once up to temperature the charging voltage should be no higher than 14.3v.
 
G

gedis

Member +
Texx said:
Think you may have an alternator voltage regulator problem, it certainly wants checking anyway. 15v is about as high as you'd want to see the charging voltage reach during engine warm up, once up to temperature the charging voltage should be no higher than 14.3v.
Click to expand...

ya i thought its a bit high, but i put that to battery as i used the one of 3.5ton transit tipper, and its fresh of the charger
 
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