Is it possible to change the Cam Belt with the engine in situ?

Stryfe_NZL

Member +
Hey guys n gals,

Has anyone had any success in changing the cam belt with the engine still in the car?

Just looking at the amount of space available it looks as though it would be a ba*tard of a trick to pull off...
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
its the usual wa mate. you may have to remove the engine mount and put it on a jack or joist to make it a little easier.

never done it myself so cant comment any more, sorry!
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
you dont need to lock it. just line everything up with the marks when putting it back together. or make your own marks before removing the belt
 

Stryfe_NZL

Member +
No worries.

Thanks guys, now will have to clear some room in the shed (possibly harder than actually changing the belt me thinks).

I should be able to change the crank & cam seals whilst I'm at it yeah?
 

dan_ep82

Member +
i just marked the cam were it was on the head in about 3 places! when the pully was on the mark!

dan
 

Stryfe_NZL

Member +
Well, had the covers off, replaced the Cam seal, didn't bother even attempting the belt at this point as have major time constraints today (work xmas do).

Locking the pulleys in place will be a bastich... The crank pulley especially. I only got the cam sprocket off by jamming it with a screwdriver (wrapped in a rag).
Still bleeding oil from the cam belt cover down the bottom, so hopefully it will just be the seal on the crank.

Is there anyway to ensure that the seals go in without part of the camface seal flicking back out?
 

Harvey

Member +
Its not a hard job the camblet, but then its pretty awkward at same time!!

You need a crankshaft removal tool to take the bottom pulley off. I made my own for this.

you do NOT need a locking kit mate. There are only 2 points to allign, the crankshaft and the cam.

With the crank pulley off, there is a tiny indent on the pulley that limes up with a dimple or dot (cant remember) on the block face. At the same time there is a hole in the cam pulley the one marked 4E (presuming you have a 1.3? if 1.5 then use the 5E mark) and you eye through that hole to a mark on the bearing cap (the hole will basically be at about 12 o clock.

you then have to release the tensioner, lever itr back (make sure you get it all the way back or you will regret it later on) and then tighten it up to hold it there. Now remove belt and refit new one.

NOTE - this is where its a bit of a pain, its very easy for it to go one tooth out here. You need to pull it tight over the right side of the cam and crank pulley so any slack is on the tensioner side. It can be tricky, and took me 3 attempts on the last one!once belt is on, release the tensioner, it will take up the slack. nip bolt back up. Turn the engine over by hand at least 2 rotations, and check the timing is alligned still. If not, your a tooth out, you will have to remove belt and try again (be careful not to damage the belt moving the tensioner.)

Ive never changed the crankshaft oil seal so cant comment how easy/hard this is to do. Unfortunately my mate has my 5EFE repair book at the moment so i cant check that either
 
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