JE piston rings .. PRO SEAL , well cheap ?!?!
- Thread starter bongskag
- Start date
just had the digi caliper out measuring my old rings .. and it seems very possible to do this ! i have a set of immaculate std pistons. block already has honing but it may need a deglaze or rehone ,
1. how do I tell if it needs a deglaze
2. would it need rehoning for new rings
3. im forging the rods , will there be a problem connecting new rods to STD pistons ..
many thanks in advance for all your great help!
1. how do I tell if it needs a deglaze
2. would it need rehoning for new rings
3. im forging the rods , will there be a problem connecting new rods to STD pistons ..
many thanks in advance for all your great help!
There won't be any problem in connected forged rods to standard pistons, but why not just wait and get forged pistons as well? Weisco's or something, there cheap, and it saves the engine having to be stripped again. Do it all in one hit then you'll never have to touch the engine again 
was going to keep my STD pistons and get forged rods because one of the rods had wear on it, I thought It might be worth getting new rings as the pistons are out. heres the ring sizes.
Actual Bore Size (Alternate): 74.00mm
Ring Kit - Oil Radial Width: 0.119in
Ring Kit - Oil Thickness: 2.8mm
Ring Kit - Oil Type: CUS
Ring Kit - Second Radial Width: 0.130in
Ring Kit - Second Thickness: 1.2mm
Ring Kit - Second Type: IPA
Ring Kit - Top Radial Width: 0.107in
Ring Kit - Top Thickness: 1.0mm
Ring Kit - Top Type: CUS
I havnt measured the radial widths , but the thickness look right .
Actual Bore Size (Alternate): 74.00mm
Ring Kit - Oil Radial Width: 0.119in
Ring Kit - Oil Thickness: 2.8mm
Ring Kit - Oil Type: CUS
Ring Kit - Second Radial Width: 0.130in
Ring Kit - Second Thickness: 1.2mm
Ring Kit - Second Type: IPA
Ring Kit - Top Radial Width: 0.107in
Ring Kit - Top Thickness: 1.0mm
Ring Kit - Top Type: CUS
I havnt measured the radial widths , but the thickness look right .
chinesemafia
Member +
i think it would be better to get forged pistons for standard rods and not the other way around
so if i were you i would simply replace the damaged rod
im sure you can find somone on here you can provided you with at least 1 rod
sounds good and speaking to my local jap expert and he seems to think that if i try and split the pistons from the rods, the pistons will break anyway due to the stress, ( also whilst heating the rod ,,)
so , whats the best advice ?
Im still struggling with deciding what to replace and what to keep ! ( in an idea world i'd have the money to forge ! much easier in the long run ! )
stripped the engine , 1 fucked spun bearing = crank regrind , new rod , and if i replace a rod the piston will break coming off the rod ( aparently ) and new rings means at least a deglaze, new acl big ends + mains.
your thoughts please guys.. i'm stuck really and dont want to forge ( iM poor ! )
so , whats the best advice ?
Im still struggling with deciding what to replace and what to keep ! ( in an idea world i'd have the money to forge ! much easier in the long run ! )
stripped the engine , 1 fucked spun bearing = crank regrind , new rod , and if i replace a rod the piston will break coming off the rod ( aparently ) and new rings means at least a deglaze, new acl big ends + mains.
your thoughts please guys.. i'm stuck really and dont want to forge ( iM poor ! )
May be cheaper then at this point to look for a whole second hand bottom end, and stick your head on it. if funds are a problem. then depending on the extent of the scoring to the crank and condition of bores in the current bottom end slowly rebuild it with forged items as funds permit. lots quality parts always coming up on the site.
chinesemafia
Member +
the piston wornt break if you take your time in a press you dont even need to heat the rodd
ive done this many time
fitted 4efte pistons on my FHE rods
ive done this many time
fitted 4efte pistons on my FHE rods