everything is possible the thing is that after he did he marked them so when i asked him if that was possible he told me no cos he had marked them now if he did that he should just exchange them and save me future hassle as he is going to get a lot of hassle to open oilpump so i will ask him again tonight !could it be that he mixed caps 1 and 2?
all the rod caps are stamped across the 2 parts so u will know if they match up or not if the stamp lines up
its on one side rod at the join of the 2 caps il get u pix in 2 mins off to take onewhat stamp should i look for chris ?
its not easy to see in the pix but u will get the idea it will be a letter and its stamped across the join so each 1/2 must line up its only on one side of the rod
ive work on alot of these pal there should be marking there small thothere are no bloody marks on mine how is that possible? i checked them over and over but have no bloody marks
no there were no shavings on the dipstick cos the metal was so fine you wouldnt see it unless you empty the oil and check it properly
ive work on alot of these pal there should be marking there small tho
as chris told u nexia
all the stock rods i've seen have markings where the cap and rod meets...this is both in the 4e and 5e
it does seem strange that u cant find any
and petrol in your oil due to excessive richness can cause your bottom end to fail/knock
your crank prep method sounds correct. as long as you made sure every surface of the journal got the same amount of sanding then you will be ok.
repeat the process on the other 3 big end journals also.
it is possible that the caps have been replaced back to front when the engine was re assembaled but a good engine rebuilder would have noticed this right away as the crank would not have turned freely.
the conrods are line bored when the holes are machined out so every cap will only fit the rod it was fitted to when it was made. if the wrong cap is fitted to the wrong rod the crank will seize up and either not turn at all or require excessive force to turn.
if you take the drive belts off the crank pulley and put the gearbox in neutral you should be able to turn the crankshaft by hand.
the caps should slide on the rods easily, if any extra force is needed something wont be right. another thing to note is the cut outs in the cap and rod that the bearings slide into should be on the same side when the cap is put onto the rod and on e series engines you will notice this will be on the exhaust side of the engine.
the rods are often marked across the join as mentions by the other guys but i have seen some which are not marked. when ever you pull an engine apart you always mark the caps and rods with your own markings. dot punch or number punch is most common method.
its also possible that he may have put the caps on backwards, this will cause the same effect as having the caps on the wrong rod. and could possibly be worse for the engine as the oil squirters in the conrods would not have been working to cool down the pistons and lube the bores. damage due to this will be determined by how hard the engine was pushed while in the run in process and before the fault was discovered.
flow testing the oil pump is one way to do it but in all honesty i would be pulling it off and taking a look for myself. its to major component to just hope its ok. apart from checking for scoring or marks i would also be checking the clearances on the pump with some feeler gauges.
so did you find an actual cause of the bearing failure?
i would still be putting an oil pressure gauge on it right away at the minimum and ideally you would be checking the oil pump too if not replacing it.
if you havent already done it, change your oil filter again also as it will be full of metal particles. which if they get through will just stuff your new bearings as well.