preloading the lsd ohhh boy!!!!

[Texx]

It's best to clean off the old sealant and dry fit the gearbox case to check the preload, you could take the chance and seal it up first time but if it needs to come apart again it could be a little annoying. It's recommended to check the diff bearing preload with both the input and output shafts removed from the box, this makes it easier/quicker to swap shims about if needs be and also ensures a more accurate torque reading because there wont be any additional drag from the output shaft when your trying to break friction in the diff bearings.

 

[Dan-The-Glanza-Man]

i didnt no there was shims on the clutch input shafts, havent touched none of that so gessing that would be ok just the diff ive replaced, yeah was thinking doing it dry but im leaving one selecter out that bolts on by too 12mms as its a little trickie to get in place so once ive set the preload ill fit it and seal it think thats best idea, were could i get the tool that goes down the diff i no i could use and old drive shaft end, but thing i dont get is when i spin one side the ova side spins so i need them to be locked so i can spin the diff if you get me as theres a big silver spacer in the way of both spins so i cant put a tool down and it go to both spins to lock them hope you get me thanks dan

also have you any old shims im going to check this tomorrow if i can get hold of an old torque wrench thanks dan

 

[Texx]

i didnt no there was shims on the clutch input shafts, havent touched none of that so gessing that would be ok

The pinion gear on the output shaft drives the ring gear on the diff, so when you turn the diff your also going to be turning the output shaft, this will add some additional frictional drag and will 'soak up' if you like some of the torque your applying to measure the preload of the diff bearings. This could result in an inaccurate bearing preload measurement. If your measuring the preload with the output shaft removed you won't need to worry about this.

were could i get the tool that goes down the diff i no i could use and old drive shaft end, but thing i dont get is when i spin one side the ova side spins so i need them to be locked so i can spin the diff if you get me as theres a big silver spacer in the way of both spins so i cant put a tool down and it go to both spins to lock them hope you get me

Could you make something up that will allow you to rotate the diff via the "theres a big silver spacer in the way"?

also have you any old shims

Unfortunately I don't, but from my limited experience the shims are more related to the machining tolerance of transmission case rather than the diff, so I'd be hopeful that your bearing preload will be within spec.

 

[Dan-The-Glanza-Man]

so i can do it with and old drive shaft end witha nut welded on it and make sure its in nutaral

 

[Dan-The-Glanza-Man]

and also mate the is SST a tool from toyota as ive got mates at a toyota place and could ask to borrow it saves me welding on up, thing i ment if i was to put one drive shift end in and spin it the diff wont spin will it the over side will as i think the diff locks when drives put through it i could be rong its a helical 1.5 way if that helps

 

[Dan-The-Glanza-Man]

can somone help im on the job today do i have to remove all the gears to check the preload or can i do it in netural thanks dan

 

[Texx]

The bearing preload should be checked with the ring gear installed on the diff and the output shaft removed. If you set the preload with the output shaft installed the preload will likely be insufficient and could result in ring/pinion gear damage if the diff is allowed to float. If you set the preload with the ring gear removed the preload could be excessive and cause the diff carrier bearings to wear prematurely.

 

[Dan-The-Glanza-Man]

yeah i did a search thank you your right i found that youve got o take all gears out the casing so its just the diff in there but thats alot of work and to put all back i really wonder how many people have acturally done this lol

 

[weeJohn]

Fuck I didnt check the diff that way when I fitted it into the track car, I just made sure it had no end play when it was all bolted up!

Another job on the list, its never ending lol.

 

[Dan-The-Glanza-Man]

yeah i did that but stil, youve got to do it with just the diff in and like texx said got to see if it spins no less then 1nm and no more then 1.5nm depending on used or new bearings ive got one used one new lol so its tricky its starting to piss me off im no looking forward to take all the gears out lol, and the amount of people that dont do this and there all alrite just making me think twiced weather to or not to lol but think im going to lol

 

[weeJohn]

I bolted the diff in and stuck the shaft with a nut welded into onto it (I had used for checking the diff internal loading) to check if it turned ok. I was able to turn it by hand and it was not slapping about but I would doubt its within that tollerence.

 

[Dan-The-Glanza-Man]

see now im on about the bearing preload but as you said that i would like to do my diff preload as you put a shaft end in and spin it it does spin the diff it spins the over end when the shaft goes i havent much experience with lsd but im gessing it would lock at a point i tryed to spin it faster to see if it would spin the over side the same way but didnt work its 1,5 way think im just gona bolt it togehter when im next in the garage lol before i forget what bolt goes were lol or the easy way meassure the old diff from bearing to bearing and if its pretty much the same just bolt it together as its the same size that came out that is going back in so bearings should be with in spec