problems . . . . again!

daz gt

Member +
yet another problem with the car, past few days the cars been getting quite jerky to drive, and then today on the way home from work the car keeps losing all power, the engine just goes to idle and the throttle pedal does nothing. then all off a sudden its back to normal, then 2 secs down the road it does it agian, its at any speed, doing it on the duel carriage way at 30, 20 ect . . .
got home and took the spark plugs out and cleanded them and noticed that 1 had quite abit of oil on it but even after cleaning them it made no difference.

sad to say it but ive about had enough of this car now and am seriously considering selling the parts in my garage buying another cheap car and then breaking the starlet.

any help would be good,
cheers guy
daz
 

glanzanut

Lifer
mine did the exact same and it was the map sensor, just a thought.
if someone nearby has a ep, then try there sensor and see if it cures it
 

Rory

Lifer
Dont rule out your leads, my magnecors gave up after 3 months...

Have you any boost controlers wired in, or any other electronic gizmo's wired in beside the ecu?
 

Rory

Lifer
Did you wire it in?
Does that type of boost controller wire into the ignition like the avcr?
 

Rory

Lifer
Right so it only needed a positive and negative to work, thats cool

Swap the coil lead out for a known working one, i tried everything on my ignition system apart from the "new" magnecors, and yep mine was goosed
Replaced free of charge aswell
 

daz gt

Member +
Right so it only needed a positive and negative to work, thats cool

Swap the coil lead out for a known working one, i tried everything on my ignition system apart from the "new" magnecors, and yep mine was goosed
Replaced free of charge aswell


check my mates see if his trd leads are the clip type if not ill have to get some new ones which will suck if it dnt fix it.
 

Rev

Member +
Remember you can put a multimeter on the cables to check the resistance. I had cheap cables they were great at around 6 ohms but the longest one was 19 ohms.

conventional cables 16 ohm
change cables at 20 ohm
ngk cables 2-8 ohm
 

daz gt

Member +
anymore thoughts on this guys? also noticed on my way home that the rev counter needle dances around all over with no corrispondance to what the engine is actuly reving at at all.
 

starletsam

Member +
make sure the wiring for the boost controller isnt shorting out anywhere just to be safe as it does sound like a map sensor issue.plus best to rule out the free options before spending ;)
 

Rory

Lifer
With this happening id be looking at the ignition system.
Even if they are not clip type, they will still fit to let you see if it is the problem

anymore thoughts on this guys? also noticed on my way home that the rev counter needle dances around all over with no corrispondance to what the engine is actuly reving at at all.
 

daz gt

Member +
right guys, did the diagnostics check and it came up with fault code 14 which is ignition signal, but i 18month ago i replaced the whole system (ht, sparks, dizzy rotor arm) as it started missing and this solved it but i never cleared the fault code so i cleared the system of codes tonight started it, tested the system, no faults, took it for a drive and it played up again so went home did another diagnostic test and its showing no faults still even though its still playing up

so going to put my standard fuel pump back on tomorrow night as i never had any problems with that in, i only changed it preparing for the td04 conversion. so hope it is that then i can get in touch with dave a td and get a new 0ne sent out as its only 2month old and still in warrenty and hopefully be fixed for free,

but the one thing its stil doing is the rev needle is sometimes all over the shop and sometimes says what the engine is actuly doing and i carnt see the fuel pump affecting this???

cheers for the help guys il send everyone a chocolate orange if it gets fixed!
 
Top