Rebuild on the cards input

[rongkeys]

I'm looking to treat my ep82 and have spoken to a local company who can do the pressure testing, skim, balancing etc.....
questions are
1: is it worth paying for them to take apart and refit the components?
2: how do I know which size bearings to go for (acl)
3: Is reinstalling everything\ engine build easy to be done at home
4: what should the head gasket size be? dose it depend on the skim?
5. how quick can rings, bearing, gaskets be sourced do any traders carry in stock?
6: Are there any updated oil pumps available?



Any tips as would like to have the experience of building my own engine, money is a factor and would prefer to spend it on new parts rather than for someone to do something I'm able to do.

thanks

 

[TheStarletGT]

If your attempting to do a rebuild as you say, YOU should dissasemble the engine yourself fully, its quite obvious why. Providing the crank does not need machining or repair, you should opt for standard size bearings. You could just hone the bores and fit standard size pistons ($105 for each piston from toyota).

The only thing you require for someone else to do is press out the pistons from the rods. Remember, if you want to rebuild the engine, do it ALL YOURSELF. You dont need a upgraded oil pump.

Get a timing belt,pullies if needed to. Get a standard OEM TOYOTA head gasket.


PS: I did a 1 piston removal and refit of a new one, was a great challenge.

 

[ryandlang]

im currently rebuilding an fte, and a new oil and water pump are towards the top of my list.

the engine shop should check your crank for free to see if it needs work (my engine shop did anyway)

hopefully this will help too
a friend passed it onto me


4E-FTE Engine Service Specifications.

Cylinder Head:
Warpage limit (block side) 0.05mm
Warpage limit (Manifold side) 0.05mm

Intake manifold:
Warpage limit 0.1mm

Exhaust manifold:
Warpage limit 0.2mm

Cylinder block:
Surface warpage limit 0.05mm

Bore diameters:
STD mark 1 = 74.000-74.010mm
STD mark 2 = 74.010mm-74.020mm
STD mark 3 = 74.020mm-74.030mm
Limit before rebore = 74.23mm

Piston diameter:
STD mark 1 = 73.900-73.910mm
STD mark 2 = 73.910mm-73.020mm
STD mark 3 = 73.920mm-73.930mm

Piston to oil clearance:
STD = 0.09-0.11mm
Limit = 0.13mm

Piston ring groove clearance:
Top ring = 0.04-0.08mm
2nd ring = 0.03-0.07mm

Piston ring end gap:
Top ring (STD) = 0.26-0.36mm
Top ring (Limit) = 0.95mm
2nd ring (STD) = 0.15-0.30mm
2nd ring (Limit) = 0.90mm
Oil control ring (STD) = 0.13-0.38mm
Oil control ring (Limit) = 0.98mm

Con-rods:
Thrust clearance (STD) = 0.15-0.35mm
Thrust clearance (Limit) = 0.45mm

Big-end inner diameter:
STD mark 1 = 43.000-43.007mm
STD mark 2 = 43.007-43.014mm
STD mark 3 = 43.014-43.021mm
U/S 0.25 = 43.000-43.021mm

Rod bearing centre wall thickness:
STD mark 1 = 1.487-1.491mm
STD mark 2 = 1.491-1.495mm
STD mark 3 = 1.495-1.499mm
U/S 0.25 = 1.607-1.613mm

Con-rod oil clearance:
STD = 0.016-0.048mm
Limit = 0.08mm
Maximum allowable bend in rod per 100mm = 0.03mm
Maximum allowable twist in rod per 100mm = 0.05mm

Crankshaft thrust clearance:
STD = 0.02-0.20mm
Limit = 0.30mm

Main journal oil clearance:
STD = 0.016-0.049mm
U/S 0.25 = 0.017-0.061mm
Limit = 0.08mm

Main journal diameter:
STD mark 0 = 46.995-47.000mm
STD mark 1 = 46.990-46.995mm
STD mark 2 = 46.985-46.990mm

Main bearing centre wall thickness:
STD mark 1 = 1.995-1.999mm
STD mark 2 = 1.999-2.003mm
STD mark 3 = 2.003-2.007mm
STD mark 4 = 2.007-2.011mm
STD mark 5 = 2.011-2.015mm
U/S 0.25 = 2.115-2.123mm

Crank pin diameter:
STD = 39.985-40.000mm
U/S 0.25 = 39.745-39.755mm
Limit = 0.06mm
Circle runout (Limit) = 0.06mm
Main journal taper and out-of-round (Limit) = 0.02mm
Crank pin taper and out-of-round (Limit) = 0.02mm

Torque settings:
Cylinder head bolt:
22nm
44nm
turn 90 degrees in same sequence

Cylinder head to camshaft bearing cap:
9ftlb

Cylinder head to intake manifold:
14ftlb

Cylinder head to exhaust manifold:
35ftlb

Cylinder head to water outlet housing:
13ftlb

Cylinder head to Cylinder head cover:
61inlb ** note inch pounds, not foot pounds! **

Camshaft to Camshaft timing pulley:
37ftlb

Cylinder block to crankshaft bearing cap:
42ftlb

Cylinder block to rear main oil seal retainer:
65inlb ** again note inch pounds **

Cylinder block to oil filter union:
18ftlb

Crankshaft to flywheel:
65ftlb

Con-rod cap to con-rod:
29ftlb (18ftlb then +90 degrees)

Oil pump pulley to drive rotor:
27ftlb

hopefully that help, certainly helping me dude

 

[JasonGlanza]

so helpful this info ryandlang!

 

[philstarletgt]

ive just rebuilt my gt engine, i would say if your handy with tools and no your way round an engine you be fine but if not then i wouldnt attempt it.

parts are easy to get hold from the traders on here i got my parts from camskills and toyota them selfs as parts are not that much money,
you have to be carefull when ordering rod bearings as there are 3 different standard size, so you need to check condition of crank before ordering, if your crank is fine the you can use oem size 2s or acl as there the same size, or if need a regrind you can get undersized bearings.
same with the piston rings, there are 3 different sizes which are stamped in to pistons, but providing the bores are ok go with the same size with a light hone and standard rings.

for a basic rebuild for parts you will need

pistons X4, oem or forged
piston rings, oem
head gasket kit, plenty about but i went for oem gasket kit with a athena 1.4mm gasket with the head having a slight skim but im now going to td04 aswell
valve stem seals, i could only find these from toyota
rod bearings x4, acl or oem
main bearings x5, acl or oem
oil pump, oem
water pump, oem
cam belt kit, oem or gates which is basicly the same quality

depending what spec you wanna go for or oem or pattern parts, you can get all the parts for less then £600

ive just done mine my self for less then a grand with 4 new pistons and thats with a td04 setup some parts were sourced off here like manifold and turbo, only part i had to pay for other people todo was fit the pistons to rods (£50) head to be skimmed (£40)

hope this helps you out and im sure other people on here will offer help and always use the search as that helped me alot

 

[rongkeys]

Thank you for replys if I knew how to rep from the phone then I would. I had searched out the info regards sizes/measurements but knowing what I would need was bothering me.
I'm borrowing an engine stand this weekend and have an indoor space to work in but without lights.

I was thinking the wrong way around, ordering parts then stripping........ as pointed out I just need to strip it and see what is what before ordering new parts.