self map ecu

toyotagt

Member +
well, any one know about the blitz or mines ect ecus,

i want to no what is the most there capable of, and do they acctually self map and adjust to your car? how accurate and how much adjustment is allowed on these?

also i know most people swear by these ecu's for ct9 hybrid under a bar,

so i want to no could this ecu do for a 5e on the hybrid?
and would it do for a td04/5 under a bar on 4e and 5e?

just want to know about these, no matter what ill do ill get the fueling checked and might have to run a fuel pressure reg with the ecu if theres not enough? of wil that confuse and feck up the ecu?
 

accent_97

Member +
im runing a mines on a 4e ct9 at 13 psi standard manifold im using rrfpr set at 40 psi , i found out that with a rrfpr works as is should be , power is a bomb cant complain it really pulls you in the seat
 

toyotagt

Member +
im runing a mines on a 4e ct9 at 13 psi standard manifold im using rrfpr set at 40 psi , i found out that with a rrfpr works as is should be , power is a bomb cant complain it really pulls you in the seat

ok so u think i can leave the fpr on it and asjust that wen checking it? and just take out fcd?




anyone know whats the most they can do? 5e tdo4 ect?
 

accent_97

Member +
the fcd is not needed its in the ecu you can sell it and grab some money for it , when you plug the new ecu for the first 500km drive normaly and keep it to 33 psi for the begining and then rase it after
 

kieran.s gt

Member +
watch out for detting on a 5e with one you wont know really until you run it might not suit it at all or it could be okay .
if you can get something mappable instead.
 

weeJohn

Lifer
Really only any good on a standard turbo, raised rev limit and advances ignition etc.

Have to disagree with you there, I ran a Blitz access for 2 years at 1.4bar on a TD04. When I changed to a Power FC I gained 2 bhp. It could have been mapped more aggressively but thats up to whoever is getting it done. I did get better fuel economy but.
 

iamlegend

Member +
well i ran the jam ecu with my tdo4 set up and it made 169 bhp at 1 bar

changed to the EMU ecu got it mapped by TD and it made 219bhp at 1 bar! so DEFO DEFO best choice i made to change to the piggy backs

all supporting mods with tdo4 external wastegate set up

the plug and plays i believe are/work better for ct9s only
 

corofin12345

Member +
heard those ecus wont fuel a 5e properly but then again a good tuner could sort that for you, was going to quote weejohn on this but he has replyed, lol... after seeing and driving loads of gts and glanza with these ecus fitted ive come to this conclusion (my conclusion,just putting it out there), they learn to a certain degree and that degree been it learns from the o2 sensor (lambda) "maybe", when i got my blitz access i threw it in and boosted straight away, there was no run in period but when i installed it in a mates car the engine ran bad up to 20 miles then it took off like a bat out of hell, took it out and installed it back into my car and my engine ran bad up to 5 miles and then took off like a bat out of hell, installed it in another car and it took over 30 miles to bed in, back on my car, 5 miles or so, i see a rhythm here really, no o2 sensor is alike on these cars, wear, worn, carboned up etc etc.. these ecus must learn more from the o2 sensor over the the stock ecus... my o2 sensor is only 3 years old, the others, god knows.. just a thought.. either way, i still think they are great ecus, when i had the wideband on i boosted at 1.2bar on the turbo i have for a short burst and the a/f readings were spot on
 

GTwayne

Member +
Have to disagree with you there, I ran a Blitz access for 2 years at 1.4bar on a TD04. When I changed to a Power FC I gained 2 bhp. It could have been mapped more aggressively but thats up to whoever is getting it done. I did get better fuel economy but.


Fair enough buddy, I thought this type of ecu was designed to work with the stock turbo. Maybe i should sell my pfc and get a mines.
 

weeJohn

Lifer
The beauty about them is you can change your set up to try something out and not be out of pocket for mapping, if you are mid mods and no reasonable price tuners are about then its a good option IMO.
 

Fatman

Member +
This question comes up quite frequently. Here's the definitive answer:

They do NOT 'self learn' or 'auto tune' or anything of the sort. Like any factory ECU they contain fuel and timing maps, they choose what map to run based on the input of the sensors they have access to. MAP (boost pressure), IAT (Intake air temperature), Knock, Water temp, Throttle position and narrow band O2 sensor. Key here is the narrow band O2 sensor. These are capable (and designed) to ONLY measure above or below stoichiometric for petrol (14.7AFR). Outside of this transition, they do not produce any meaningful measurements. 14.7 afr on boost will blow your pistons to pieces. To tune, you require a wideband O2 sensor - these plug and play ECU's are incapable of making use of one.

So for these ECU's to adjust to an entirely different set of parameters beyond the few percent they are designed to compensate for, they would need to have their fuel and timing maps changed. This is not feasible without sending them back to the original tuning company who would be unable to precisely tune for your specific circumstances for obvious reasons.

These ECU's have a reputation of making your car feel much faster. I suspect this is due to their more aggressive timing maps. As I have posted in other threads in the past, this can potentially improve power and response, however you don't know what fuel type this timing map is designed for or what the temperature trims are set to. In your car, located in a different climate, different fuel, possibly different turbo/exhaust/intake/intercooler etc there is NO WAY to know if the sealed ECU will be able to control fuel and spark in a manner that won't detonate your pistons to pieces.

There are plenty of engine failures attributed to these ECU's, however people don't make a song and dance about it because they want to resell the ECU for a huge sum based on this mythic reputation!

Don't get me wrong, there are going to be plenty of examples where these things work well - however, you don't have any ability to know what the particular ECU you have is programmed for. Just because so and so had an awesome and reliable result does not mean your similar setup with the same brand ECU will have the same experience.

Buy a piggyback for the same sort of money. Get it tuned by somebody who knows what they're doing. You will have a better power result and more confidence in its ability to keep your engine going. If the power result is worse, your tuner is crap. Get a better tuner. A piggyback or standalone ECU is only really as good as the tune on it.
 
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