Toyota Yaris problems!!

A

asad_EP5DR

Fresh Recruit
Hey,

firsty i apologize if this is in the wrong section


bascially were at our tetheres end with this little car.....please bare with me on this one


it started with a crossthreaded sparkplug hole (No3) we got an insert put in and all was hunky dory...till it concked out on the motorway and the EML light came on...long story short it had melted the sparkplug tip and took a chunk out of the intake valve....our diagnosis was after the insert the sparkplug was lower in the cylinder than should have been thus melted and caused the damage


after a new head + skim/headgasket/headbolts/ genuine timing chain + tensioner/set of plugs/oil + oil filter

the car wouldnt start...timing was re-checked and was found to be out (crank mark was out) after resetting it and assembling it back up. the car now stalls as soon as the brake pedal is pressed when warm but is fine otherwise and pulls nicely on the motorway

the following has been replaced without any difference

-genuine maf
-new lambda sensor
-reconditioned throttle body
-new inlet gasket
-was stripped down again and the timing is perfect

its currently sat outside looking sorry for itself and has been for nearly a month....we dont know what else to try/do anyone shine any light?? :confused:

Asad
 
A

asad_EP5DR

Fresh Recruit
Hey

Its a 1.0 02 plate french built

No eml, slight miss fire but it drives fine...Dont have access to a diagnostic machine atm but it cant be any of the major sensors as they have been replaced


What are you thinking?

Thanks
 
streetracer_starlet

streetracer_starlet

Member +
What happens when it cuts out,when the brakes are pressed? Engine cuts out or the whole car dies? (like dash lights ect.?) Vacuum pipe ok to the servo? The earth on the head ok?

Hard to think it through on the internetz rather than the car actually infront of you lol.
 
A

asad_EP5DR

Fresh Recruit
when pressed, the cars idle stutters then just cuts out the dash lights stay on...

yup servo pipe is ok no leaks and is intact, all the earths are fine (made sure theres no rust and sanded the area back)

i appreciate it bud, thankyou
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
Sounds like a faulty check valve in the brake servo, IIRC the valve is mounted in the front of the servo, it's basically what the vacuum pipe pushes onto.
 
streetracer_starlet

streetracer_starlet

Member +
Texx said:
Sounds like a faulty check valve in the brake servo, IIRC the valve is mounted in the front of the servo, it's basically what the vacuum pipe pushes onto.
Click to expand...

What i was thinking, had exact same fault on a mates scooby although it cut out hot or cold, turned out the servo valve was fooked :)
 
A

asad_EP5DR

Fresh Recruit
We had a poke about with it yesterday, but well test it today see if it makes any difference....

Thankyou, ill update as we go
 
dark_knight

dark_knight

Member +
really waiting on that update asad_EP5DR as i also think the vacuum line/check valve are the usual suspects in this instance given your description.. :)
 
A

asad_EP5DR

Fresh Recruit
no luck guys, the valve is fine blows one way no cracks etc

new symptoms:

when cold the car starts and idles then when warm (cold idle turns off) the car refuses to idle and cuts out (dash lights stay on)

the engineer says it may have something to do with the valve clearances/buckets may have been mixed up :confused:

back to square one.:mad:
 
streetracer_starlet

streetracer_starlet

Member +
If the buckets are all mixed up it can cause a top end rattle or a small mis-fire. There a FUCKING PAIN IN THE ARSE to sort out if there all mixed up :( Have to measure everything then match it up with a graph to work out the gap needed then match that to shim number ect. days work nearly lol.

Have you done a compression test since it was all built up? If the compressions pretty shit the valve clearance could be out, try it with the engine hot and cold :) Could be pissing in the wind though lol. Only other thing i can think of is when it starts to run shit does it make a kinda "bwoab" sound :haha::haha: Weird to describe but sounds like an induction kit but really slow to rev up if that makes sence?
 
A

asad_EP5DR

Fresh Recruit
when removing everything from the damaged head the buckets were mixed up (school boy error) the engineer was given all the bits and told to set the valve clearances on the 1st replacement head, this head was scrapped as it was later damaged and we got a 2nd replacement skimmed and transfered everything over exactly as the engineer set it up....buckets + cams

so if the engineers done his job properly it should still be fine, no?

also abit of mis-communication from my old man the car didnt just cut out when braking it cut out when dipping the clutch and/or braking (so basically anything that would mean the engine drops the revs bellow 1k = stall/cut out)

tomorrow evening the following will be done:

a compression test and apparantly the cam caps were tightened up wrong 13ft/lb was used instead of 13nm so they will be loosened off before the compression test....could this be it?

thanks guys
 
F

fishman

Member +
had a yaris t-sport before the starlet, was my idle control valve just needed a clean with some eletrical cleaning spray. used to do the exact same thing as yours
 
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