Turboing a 5e-fhe engine

RS-Ronan

Member +
well lads.
sorry if theres a thread about this already but the search bar won't work for me because of my stupid laptop!

what i want to know is,
what exactly will i need for a basic turbo conversion?
could i use a standard CT9 turbo or would i want something bigger?
could i leave off internals for a while until i got the money together for forged ones or something as long as i ran it on low boost?

any information would be greatly appreciated lads as i'm looking into doing this in the upcoming months and trying to source parts and what they'd cost.

Thanks very much.

Ronan
 

1bar

Member +
Taken from www.tercelonline.com

How to build a 5EFTE engine
Well this question has become so popular that I have seen it come up on forums at least once a week these days. So how do you build a 5EFTE engine? Keep reading and it will tell you all that you need to know.

Firstly, what’s the difference between the E series engines? Have a look here which will show you a datasheet full of useful information. You really need to understand what is in here before you can continue.

Differences that need to be understood
Let’s look at what’s physically different between all the E series engines. We will only concentrate on the differences that actually affect the conversion. The following differs between the engines:

* The sump, and matching pickup is deeper on the 5E engines, however it does not have any baffles. It also does not have a turbo oil drain either.
* The crankshafts are different. The 5E throws a greater stroke than the 4E, but the big end is the same size.
* The tapped holes on the crank for the flywheel differ between the 4E and the 5E, even though they are both 6 holes each. This means the 212mm 4EFTE flywheel does not bolt onto the 5E crank.
* The Stroke of the 5E (length of the Con-rod) is greater than the 4E engine. 4E = 77.40mm whereas 5E = 87.00mm. That makes the 5E Con-rods 9.6mm longer.
* The ConRods on the 5EFE are thinner than on the 5EFHE engine. More information can be found here http://www.ep91.com/showthread.php?t=34.
* The oil filter re-locator assembly on the 4EFTE has 3 holes for screws to secure it to the block. The 4EFE and 5E engines do not have this because the filter bolts straight to the block.
* The pistons differ; the 5EFE and 5EFHE pistons have a raised top to increase the compression ratio and the 4EFTE piston top is flat to keep it at a low 8.2CR.
* The valves-springs on the 4EFE/5E differ to the 4EFTE. I have tested both and the 4EFE ones are weaker. I can only assume that the 5EFE ones would be the same.
* The camshafts differ from model to model, and year to year. The 5EFHE cams are the best to use, but the 4 most common specs are noted in the comparison sheet between all the E series engines.
* The rocker cover on the 4EFTE has a breather hose in-between cylinder 3 and 4 to cope with extra crank case pressure.

So what parts will I need?
Ok, you have gotten this far so my guess is you are keen to build this engine. Well below I will add the parts necessary to build the engine. Of course you can always substitute an OEM part with an aftermarket part if you choose.

* 4EFTE sump
* 4EFTE oil feed pickup
* 5EFHE connecting rods or aftermarket connecting rods
* 4EFTE pistons or aftermarket forged pistons for a 4EFTE
* Thicker head gasket if you want similar compression to a 4EFTE
* 4EFTE oil filter re-locator adaptor.
* E series head (they are all the same)
* 4EFTE valve springs or up rated valve springs.
* 4EFTE cam cover (rocker cover)
* 5EFE flywheel

Things you will need to consider when putting your long motor together:

* You will need the 4EFTE sump and oil pickup. They are a pair, so you will not be able to mix them up.
* My recommendation is to use either 5EFHE con-rods as the 5EFE con-rods are very thin, and would not cope with the demand of a turbocharged engine. For more information, have a look here again. Another alternative is to use aftermarket Con-rods. Check out our ‘Part Numbers’ forum to find any associated part numbers for 5E con-rods.
* Now because it is going to be a turbocharged engine, it is recommended to reduce the compression ratio of the engine. To do this, we change the pistons. The 4EFTE pistons work a treat and are easy to get. Obviously you can also go for aftermarket pistons if your budgets allow it. The 4EFTE pistons will reduce the compression ratio down to approx. 8.5:1.
* To reduce the compression further, a thicker head gasket can be installed. This can be the thicker TRD head gasket, or a custom gasket. Without a thicker head gasket, your engine should run just over 8.5:1 compression ratio. With a TRD head gasket, it should run closer to 8.2:1. Again check out our ‘Part Numbers’ forum to find any associated part numbers.
* All the heads are identical, so if you have a 4e or 5e head, you can use it without any problems.
* The valve springs are stronger in the 4EFTE as opposed to all other E series engines, so at a minimum, install these. Personally I would get aftermarket ones that are stronger again.
* Unless you will modify the cam cover (rocker cover) to vent crank case pressure to a catch can, I would install the 4EFTE one as it should be sufficient.
* As the crankshafts are different, you are unable to bolt up the 4EFTE flywheel which takes the 212mm clutch. Instead you will have to use a 4EFE/5E flywheel which supports the 200mm clutch. Alternatively you may opt for an aftermarket flywheel. There is one other alternative, being a 3E-TE flywheel from a Corolla GP Turbo 1.5ltr engine. The bolt pattern is the same, and will allow you to bolt up any standard or aftermarket 4EFTE clutch kit.
 

ja_turbostarlet

Fresh Recruit
help

i would like to put my 5efhe in a ep70. can i use the engine bracket from the 5efhe or do i have to use the 2e engine brackets?
 

turboloon

Member +
so what kinda power would ye get out of one of these using the 5efhe rods with the 4efte pistons..?also what would be the max boost ye could run a td04 on this ..1 bar..?seems like a decent cheapish upgrade...
 

J25GTi

Lifer
Its not exactly a cheap upgrade, believe! You need a whole 5efhe engine, block, crank, and rods, and a whole 4e engine, and end up with one, and a whole lot of wasteage! plus you need to pay to get it assembled etc!
 

sleepyrz

Fresh Recruit
so you heard from someone who heard from someone who might have done it?



because i got the rods in my hands right now

next to my micrometer and scale
gimme some measurements

and well compare them
 

mechiel

Member +
let me share something...

I'm running a FHE block, rod, crank, camshaft, ACIS manifold and the rest are using 4efte parts + T28 garret turbo with AR60 housing

been running for 18psi for more than half a year. because of the compression is higher than normal 4efte, thus my ring can't stand it and broke into half on cylinder 2 and scratches on cylinder 3

my advise is... get as low com as possible to avoid such incident happened again. I'm not sure for TD04, but mine is just an example for you guys
 

artmull

Member +
let me share something...

I'm running a FHE block, rod, crank, camshaft, ACIS manifold and the rest are using 4efte parts + T28 garret turbo with AR60 housing

been running for 18psi for more than half a year. because of the compression is higher than normal 4efte, thus my ring can't stand it and broke into half on cylinder 2 and scratches on cylinder 3

my advise is... get as low com as possible to avoid such incident happened again. I'm not sure for TD04, but mine is just an example for you guys



It is all about having the engine properly and professionally tuned. There are several cars here in Florida running a 5EFHE with turbo using the so called impossible 9.8:1 CR. These cars are daily driven on 93 Octane pump gas at 16 PSI. When using the 4EFTE pistons in the 5EFHE block the CR is 9.0:1. @ mechiel the reason why you destroyed the ring lands in your engine was because of detonation. High compression plus lean condition equals blown pistons and ring lands.
 

mechiel

Member +
It is all about having the engine properly and professionally tuned. There are several cars here in Florida running a 5EFHE with turbo using the so called impossible 9.8:1 CR. These cars are daily driven on 93 Octane pump gas at 16 PSI. When using the 4EFTE pistons in the 5EFHE block the CR is 9.0:1. @ mechiel the reason why you destroyed the ring lands in your engine was because of detonation. High compression plus lean condition equals blown pistons and ring lands.

bro, i agree with you. tuning is the most important part. That was what i missed during the first rebuild and caused the turbo exhaust housing scratched and fins are broken.

I'm currently using emanage... i believe the block was damaged when i was still using afc neo. And when the turbine failed, i didn't take out the engine and look into it. so it might due to that...
 
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