using a dta s60 on a starlet

[_shaun_]

decided an s60 would be my best option so purchased one. will be on a forged 5e running coil on plug but i have no idea what sensors are actualy needed or advised to be used to get this up and running and if i can use any of the oem sensors?. and if not can i just buy generic sensors or do they have to be dta ones to work?

with regards to running coil on plug i think civic type r coils will be best bet and as i understand ill need to get a trigger wheel and crank sensor fitted again can i just use any generic trigger wheel and crank sensor if this is the case is there any advantages to how many teeth the wheel has as there seems to be alot of options? lastly is this all thats needed for the coil on plug?


cheers shaun

 

[AdamB]

You can use the stock sensors, most people when changing ecu just make up a field harness to convert from the standard ecu pinout to the standalone pinout. I myself am not a fan as it still leaves a messy engine bay lol.
You will need to run a crank trigger wheel with sensor, as far as i'm aware most if not all triggers are catered for in the software, its been a while since I've played with DTAswin. You would probably be best off running a common ford type which I believe to be 60-1.

You will be able to run type r coils, although you will need to find out their pinouts and dwell times which can't be too hard.

Are you going to be mapping yourself?

 

[_shaun_]

yea am trying to get the bay as tidy as possible. when i got the ecu it came with a custom k20 harness which just happens to have the type r coil plugs wired in so i shouldnt even have to touch that part. then hopefully for the most part ill get away with just remove the plug's from the k20 loom and adding on the plug's for my sensors. ill need to make up all the crank sensor stuff myself so just trying to confirm exactly what the best way for it is.



i no nothing about mapping so i wont be doing it. plan is to keep the oem loom in place to run the engine in then swap to the custom loom and go for mapping

 

[AdamB]

Yep sounds the way I would do it mate.
Would it not be best for your tuner to cut and swap the plugs over? That way they can also find and install a trigger system. I'm sure as well, depending on what features you want to use, you have to run both a crank and cam trigger sensor, so you may have to use the existing cam sensor in the dizzy.

 

[_shaun_]

getting mapper todo it would be easier but it wont be for a few months anyway so id rather do it myself and save some cash along with learning abit more. have been told might need a cam sensor aswell but not sure best way to mod the cam sensor to get it to work.

been speaking to keith@zisco aswell who as normal is going miles out his way to find out the best way for me to set it up

 

[AdamB]

I'm sure you could probably make a blanking plate and keep the stock cam sensor in place, obviously you will just have to rewire it into the DTA pinout.
Have you also changed the throttle body so a different TPS can be used? As chances are you either won't be able to, or get a poor map from the stock sensor as it only reads open or closed.

 

[_shaun_]

am debating if ill get an aftermarket inlet or stick with stock so once ive decided on that then ill what tps i want to you have been told a auto tps would work tho but unsure how true this is

 

[Chris@CCM]

somthing haltech or link might be easyer man as u can use the stock triggers and sensors etc
just get a gtr tps sensor they fit sooo easy

 

[_shaun_]

already have the dta sitting next to me seems i can use almost all stock sensors just need the crank sensor to run coil on plug possibly a cam sensor and obv a different map sensor then get new tps

 

[AdamB]

From what I would recommend or you would need:

Crank trigger with sensor
Wire in the existing cam sensor
Map sensor
New TPS
Possible new intake air temp sensor as I know the stock one can be quite slow.

All relatively simple if you can put up with a bit of wiring

 

[Chris@CCM]

use a gtr tps mate no joke u would think there made for a starlet

 

[96v]

or an auto tps, they have a wider 'range' unlike the manual tps which is, like you say either 'open' or 'closed'

 

[Texx]

Can you not use the 24 tooth wheel (NE) in the stock distributor for crank position and use the G1 sensor for cam position? In the Swin general engine settings, try setting the number of teeth on wheel to 24, number of missing teeth to 0, flywheel mode to 6 (no missing teeth), update the map and then run the Crankshaft Oscilloscope to calibrate the crank and cam position signals.

With a bit of luck the software will fill in the blanks, although without looking at a stock distributor I'm not 100% sure how it would identify Cylinder 1 at TDC.