Taken from tercel online (Post from mulberry)
So you want to go 5EFTE?
In order to make normally aspirated power you have to spend money and lots of it. To make decent power with less money you need to go turbo. You can turbo your stock 5EFE if it has less than 100K miles and if it was properly maintained. Also if your radiator has more than 100K miles, change it for a'88 auto Terc radiator. We all know the best way would be to buy a set of steel rods, (Cunningham/Oliver/Argo/Crower/Pauter) and a set of forged pistons, (CP/JE/ARIAS/WISECO/ROSS) and a Aasco aluminum flywheel. Since we are all on a budget on this site, these are some options and it will cost money but if you first make a plan then your list, you can work towards this goal.
5EFE---If you have self discipline, (BOOST IS ADDICTIVE), you can turbo your stock 5EFE and run a maximum of 10-13PSI safely every day on 93 Octane. You will need either an oil pan from a 4EFTE or you can modify your existing oil pan to fit an oil drain for the turbo. Contrary to popular belief the weak point of the 5EFE is the con-rod not the pistons, that is where the self discipline comes in and also the maximum boost pressure shown above. You will need a set of 330cc injectors from a Mazda or a set of 315cc injectors from a NA 7MGE Supra. You will need either a Weapon*R or Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. You will need an air temp sensor and a turbo map sensor. There is a pic on here by gsr-1000 how & where to mount the air temp sensor. You will also need either a 4EFTE oil filter relocator or you can get one for the Camry from Summitracing.com part# 1113.
ENGINE MANAGEMENT--- the only piggyback you can use with a NA engine/ECU is the Ultimate. Otherwise you will need to go stand alone. The cheapest stand alone ECU is the Megasquirt and they should be releasing an even cheaper version some time this year. Next in terms of price would be the SDS/MICROTECH/EMS/DTA/AEM. For turbo the cheapest would be the TD04L or VF22 from the WRX. For exhaust manifold you can either modify a manifold off a 92/93 Paseo or the 5EFHE manifold or buy the speedvision piece. Downpipe and exhaust should be no smaller than 2.5 inches. If you have emissions you will need to use two cats but you can replace one with a test pipe after passing emissions. You will need a BOV (TurboXS type H or the factory BOV off an Eclipse). You will need a FMIC from either a Starion/Volvo or buy a new one from
http://www.godspeedproject.com. You will need at least one 1/2 inch or dash 10 breather from the cam cover going to a catch can. You can buy a JAZ catch can or make one from an old air conditioner dryer. The key to success is the proper setup and professional tuning on a dyno with a target AFR no leaner than 12.5:1. When tuning you start rich then go lean which means the lower the AFR number the richer the mixture.
5EFHE----For serious power. In the Caribbean, Europe, Australia, NZ and also Japan the trend is to use the 5EFHE but change the pistons to use the 8.2:1 4EFTE pistons. This combination with appropriate turbo & modified 5EFHE exhaust manifold and the 4AGE throttle body has produced 280 wheel horsepower and 270 LB/FT of torque. Down here in Florida the guys are not scared to try stuff that the experts (Toysport) say cannot be done. Therefore the complete stock 5EFHE with the 9.8:1 CR pistons is used together with the wire harness from a 4EFTE/ECU/coil & igniter and distributor/4EFTE oil pan/4EFTE oil filter relocator plus either the SAFC2 or the eManage Blue. 550cc or 440cc injectors, Bosch inline fuel pump with at least a dash 6 supply line and K&N reuseable fuel filter and using the stock supply line as the return line. For turbos either a T28/GT28/GT28R/Mitsubishi 20G or T3-T4 may be used with a custom exhaust manifold with 1-1/2 diameter tubing, 3 inch downpipe and 3 inch exhaust system/FMIC. Proper tuning with the T3-T4 turbo has produced 220-240 wheel horsepower daily driven at 16-17PSI on 93 Octane and 290 wheel horsepower with C16 race gas.
