Water hoses/Water pump help

[Rev]

For a short time I fixed water leaking out of most hose connections ( when the engine turns off ) with a new. 1.1 bar radiator cap, then burst a couple of pipes but now some leaks are back.

The latest leak happened after changing gear to 1st gear at 55kph and accelerating up a slight hill at wot in 1st gear to 6300 RPM. ( immediate rev change was about 3300rpm Second to 6000rpm First )

Context to this is really want to fix any basic issues before I go for more power. Suggestions welcome.

Also Not sure of EP82 water pump limits.
Did this gear change create local vaccum that sucks air in or is it just sudden pressure that lifts the pipe and lets air in ? I ask as the pipe going down from the cabin heater to the water pump is showing signs of leaking.
( As heater was off presumably this pipe would have no circular flow so maybe experiences some vaccum? )

Other info:
Running no thermostat.
New silicone hoses to turbo and 2 to back of thermo housing.
Car is auto 170fhp at 15psi with aluminium radiator
Steering pump/water pump has slightly longer belt.
Car came with a turbo timer that used to run engine after the ignition is turned off.

thanks in advance.

 

[dac69er]

sounds like your overthinking the issue.

if you have leaks, fitting a higher pressure rad cap seems a strange thing to do?

go back to standard rad cap and make sure you cure all the leaks. nothing should leak. what hose clamps are you using?


your not running anything mad with your engine, so you should have no problems. the cooling system is very capable on the 4efte and people run some high end setups with very minimal work done to the cooling system other than the basics.

 

[Rev]

Very reassuring to hear that.
I was getting water spitting out of the 0.9 cap regularly though.

I had stock spring clips and one hose burst near the clip. Could that have been letting air in without fully leaking then the air boiling through the other hoses and cap?
I would be good with that rather than the cooling system capacity issue.

 

[dac69er]

if you are getting overpressurising, then you have a bad headgasket or crack in the head.

 

[Rev]

Sadly head gasket may be is a possibility but water loss generally matches hose leaking. Also compression test was ok.

The thing is with the auto box my FMIC/ trans oil cooler/ support frame/ AC fan and AC radiator block 100% of the radiator at least once and any case direct flow must go through the ac radiator which is angled down before reaching the engine radiator.

Typically for Sydney radiator average velocity drop (at 100kph) becomes sub optimal with 25% openings blockage and lower opening are usually more important than the decorative grille.

My auto Sera has 100% of the lower openings effectively blocked by the FMIC and small openings at the front with direct airflow through a tilted AC radiator of only 13% of the radiator area.

I think higher speed is ok but city traffic speeds and boosting say up steep incline or 15 or 20 psi at 70kph on the flat boil the radiator a lot when the engine is turned off plus there is the extra autobox heat?

 

[dac69er]

sounds like yours is in the early stages so a compression test probably wouldnt show up anything. only a leakdown or sniffer test would show a headgasket related problem.

the hoses leaking is probably just due to the overpressurisation.

get those tests done as it will only get worse and could cost you more than a headskim and new headgasket if it is left.

 

[Rev]

Ok thanks will try the sniffer, sounds sensible to try to eliminate this issue. I have had really bad luck with shoddy head skims on other cars but fortunately have had my eye on a 1.5 Sera engine to turbo this should help the decision one way of the other..