timing belt help
- Thread starter jam35
- Start date
350ep70gr
Member +
If i was you i would change them an also a small service would be a good thing and not very expensive.
350ep70gr
Member +
air filter,gearbox oil,coolant, brake fluid,check brake pads and discs and replace belt and tensioner especially if your clock readings km are high.
Dub-Se7en
Lifer
i would
here is a timing belt replacement guide to help you
http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/useful_info/OTHER_PDFS/timingbeltstarlet.pdf
weeJohn
Lifer
No, just jack up the drivers side, fit an axle stand and remove the bottom splash guard on the drivers side.
i would
here is a timing belt replacement guide to help you
http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/useful_info/OTHER_PDFS/timingbeltstarlet.pdf
This is awsome !!! was just looking for that
thanks for reply
I am adding some pics from my manual. regards to procedure.
Still got few questions.
1. once I align top cam with "4E" mark and crank pulley on "0" mark and take off the belt, what can actually go wrong ?
Once its off i thought cams and crank are aligned just right so as long as i put the belt on without moving the marks i am Safe? and once new belt is on on and I move crank and cam at same time when trying to tension it is that OK ? or marks have to be at their positions at all times.
2. I also suspect from crank seal may be leaking but its a good idea to swap it anyway ? Is it as simple as getting timing belt pulley of the crank ?
3. is it common for oil pump to leak ? I just want to be prepared for when i take it all apart.
4. do i have to remove power steering reservoir for room ?
Thanks
I am adding some pics from my manual. regards to procedure.
Still got few questions.
1. once I align top cam with "4E" mark and crank pulley on "0" mark and take off the belt, what can actually go wrong ?
Once its off i thought cams and crank are aligned just right so as long as i put the belt on without moving the marks i am Safe? and once new belt is on on and I move crank and cam at same time when trying to tension it is that OK ? or marks have to be at their positions at all times.
2. I also suspect from crank seal may be leaking but its a good idea to swap it anyway ? Is it as simple as getting timing belt pulley of the crank ?
3. is it common for oil pump to leak ? I just want to be prepared for when i take it all apart.
4. do i have to remove power steering reservoir for room ?
Thanks
dac69er
Super Moderator
1. Align everything, undo the tensioner and remove the belt. As long as you don't force anything, you can turn the crank or the cam pulley, if anything touches it won't damage anything unless you force it. If you move either of the pulleys a bit don't worry, nothing will touch and you can just move it back.
2. The seal is common to leak, not as common as the flywheel side. I would replace it. The seal is part of the oil pump, but it is a standard seal and can be removed and replaced. You just need to remove the belt and the toothed pulley on the crank. Just be careful as you can push it in too far when trying to remove it and then you will have to remove the sump and oil pump.
3. The oil pump itself will never normally leak unless disturbed. If it is ok, don't touch it (other than the crank seal)
4. I have never removed the reservoir, however, I have unhooked it from its bracket to get a little extra room.
That book looks pretty handy. where did you get it from?
2. The seal is common to leak, not as common as the flywheel side. I would replace it. The seal is part of the oil pump, but it is a standard seal and can be removed and replaced. You just need to remove the belt and the toothed pulley on the crank. Just be careful as you can push it in too far when trying to remove it and then you will have to remove the sump and oil pump.
3. The oil pump itself will never normally leak unless disturbed. If it is ok, don't touch it (other than the crank seal)
4. I have never removed the reservoir, however, I have unhooked it from its bracket to get a little extra room.
That book looks pretty handy. where did you get it from?
thanks
Thanks for reply,
How tight do the belts have to be, does it matter ?
So one more thing is getting engine of the mount. Manual suggests to use jack and blocks of wood under the oil pan. The other dude who posted instructions said it was very hard to get it back on the mount and needed 3 guys. . .
Would i need a crank pulley holding tool & crank pulling tool or i can unscrew it if the car is in gear and use screw drivers to pull it off ? I have been watching videos with Hondas where guys had to heat their bolts up, I do not have tools for that. I had a struggle with every bolt on the car so far
I dont need oil drained for this I assume ?
PS where is a safe place to put axel stands on the rear ? would the suspension bar that joins the wheels be safe ?
I got workshop manual from here : http://jpnz.co.nz/product-category/toyota/page/9/
it is handy but pricey. And no EP91 unfortunately only EP82.
Thanks for reply,
How tight do the belts have to be, does it matter ?
So one more thing is getting engine of the mount. Manual suggests to use jack and blocks of wood under the oil pan. The other dude who posted instructions said it was very hard to get it back on the mount and needed 3 guys. . .
Would i need a crank pulley holding tool & crank pulling tool or i can unscrew it if the car is in gear and use screw drivers to pull it off ? I have been watching videos with Hondas where guys had to heat their bolts up, I do not have tools for that. I had a struggle with every bolt on the car so far
I dont need oil drained for this I assume ?
PS where is a safe place to put axel stands on the rear ? would the suspension bar that joins the wheels be safe ?
I got workshop manual from here : http://jpnz.co.nz/product-category/toyota/page/9/
it is handy but pricey. And no EP91 unfortunately only EP82.
Last edited:
dac69er
Super Moderator
cam belt has a tensioner that will auto tension the belt. just do as the manual says and it will be fine.
as for the aux belts, just make a mental note of how tight they are now and do them the same when you refit.
jack under oil pan is easiest. i have never had issues getting the mount back on myself without any special tools, you should be fine.
there are many ways to get the pulley bolt undone, some put a breaker bar on, and crank the car over to undo it. however, if not done properly it can break things.
i tend to put the car in gear and get someone to put their foot on the brakes and i undo it. you can also use an impact gun to get it off.
removing the pulley is best with a tool, i made my own. if you use screwdriver you will chip the fuck out of it, 99% of them are like this from previous monkey mechanics.
if you are really, really lucky the last person who did the cambelt would have put some anti seize on before fitment, that way it will come off easy
you dont need to drain the oil.
axle stands for the rear can either be put on the rear jacking points on the sill or as you say, on the rear beam. just make sure they are underneath the bottom damper fixing points as this is the strongest part.
as for the aux belts, just make a mental note of how tight they are now and do them the same when you refit.
jack under oil pan is easiest. i have never had issues getting the mount back on myself without any special tools, you should be fine.
there are many ways to get the pulley bolt undone, some put a breaker bar on, and crank the car over to undo it. however, if not done properly it can break things.
i tend to put the car in gear and get someone to put their foot on the brakes and i undo it. you can also use an impact gun to get it off.
removing the pulley is best with a tool, i made my own. if you use screwdriver you will chip the fuck out of it, 99% of them are like this from previous monkey mechanics.
if you are really, really lucky the last person who did the cambelt would have put some anti seize on before fitment, that way it will come off easy
you dont need to drain the oil.
axle stands for the rear can either be put on the rear jacking points on the sill or as you say, on the rear beam. just make sure they are underneath the bottom damper fixing points as this is the strongest part.