Does anyone know how difficult new valve stem oil seals are to fit? Is it just simply pull the old one off the stem and push the new one on, are there any special tools needed? Also gonna regrind my valves in and wondered how difficult it is to reshim the clearances and wheres the best place to get the shims. thanks harry
Info needed on Valve stem oil seal and shims
- Thread starter hga05
- Start date
gorganl2000
Lifer
http://www.bajanchameleon.com/rebuild_price_list.html
that gives kind of an idea of how its done.........the only part i hate about it is that its tedious (take a little while and very boring---not rocket science)
u need an overhead valve stem tool.........exactly like the one in the pic---its pretty cheap too....as they are others which are much bigger and not needed
just make sure u mark each shim when u remove it....like i always do....try wiping them off one at a time when u take them out....then use a permanent market to mark them....example I1, I2,I3, etc for intake........and E1, E2, E3, for exhaust........more than likely come from the timing cover side
the valve stem seals u will pry up with a bent screw driver...........and replace the new valve stem seals with a small socket CAREFULLY---they will kind of clip/snap on when in place---fell for it........or like wise u can use a piece of hose to puch them on...much easier to feel when they go on
u can put piece of wood or something soft into the chamber to keep the valves from falling
use grease on the tip of a very small screw-driver (value peck maybe) to replave the two small pieces of metal that hole everythinng in place
and pray a lot....as there may be some cursing involved...lol
that gives kind of an idea of how its done.........the only part i hate about it is that its tedious (take a little while and very boring---not rocket science)
u need an overhead valve stem tool.........exactly like the one in the pic---its pretty cheap too....as they are others which are much bigger and not needed
just make sure u mark each shim when u remove it....like i always do....try wiping them off one at a time when u take them out....then use a permanent market to mark them....example I1, I2,I3, etc for intake........and E1, E2, E3, for exhaust........more than likely come from the timing cover side
the valve stem seals u will pry up with a bent screw driver...........and replace the new valve stem seals with a small socket CAREFULLY---they will kind of clip/snap on when in place---fell for it........or like wise u can use a piece of hose to puch them on...much easier to feel when they go on
u can put piece of wood or something soft into the chamber to keep the valves from falling
use grease on the tip of a very small screw-driver (value peck maybe) to replave the two small pieces of metal that hole everythinng in place
and pray a lot....as there may be some cursing involved...lol
^ Gorgan pretty much has it spot on.
Removing the valves is real fiddly and lots of swearing will go on. Using a dab of grease is a great tip, either that or the screwdriver needs to have a good magnet but that cause its own probs with the retainer moving where it wants to!
I will add more on the shim bit.
I do exactly the same - mark them up I1-I8 and E1-E8. Also try not to mix and match the buckets either, altho none of this really matters as we will be adjusting them...
This is where my info comes in. Next step is to measure them (I used digital calipers altho the toyota book recommends a micrometer) Measure each one to 2 decimel places (IE 2.95mm) and record every single one and right it down.
Once everything is back together and the cams are in, you can check the clearances with a feeler guage.
Just looked in my book. The clearance are:
Exhaust 0.36mm (tolerance 0.31-0.41)
Intake 0.20mm (tolerance 0.15-0.25)
Must be checked when cold.
Once you have checked all the gaps you can work out what you need. You can then see if you can swap any of the shims around you have, then once you can swap no more its time to work out what size you need to buy from toyota.
They are not cheap - about £3-4 each if i recall, so can be expensive if you need a lot!
From what i see there are 17 shim sizes. Range from 2.500 to 3.300 in 0.050 increments:
Ie 2.500, 2.550, 2.600, 2.650 etc
So for example if you had a clearance of 0.35 on an intake valve with a 2.63 shim (you wont get exact measurements like the book when measuring used shims!) you need to lose approx 0.15mm, so add 0.15 to the shim size = 2.780. This is where is gets tricky as there is no 2.780 it is 2.750 or 2.800. Id probably go for the 2.800 giving 0.18 gap which altho a little tight is within tolerance and will probably open up a little as it all runs in anyway.
Just seen - there is a forumula:
N = T + (A - 0.20) intake
N = T + (A - 0.36) Exhaust
T = thickness of old shim
A = measured clearance
N = new shim size
so N = 2.63 + (0.35 - 0.20)
which is exactly what i said above: N = 2.63+0.15 = 2.78
Then it just says to choose a shim that takes it within tolerance.
hope this helps
Removing the valves is real fiddly and lots of swearing will go on. Using a dab of grease is a great tip, either that or the screwdriver needs to have a good magnet but that cause its own probs with the retainer moving where it wants to!
I will add more on the shim bit.
I do exactly the same - mark them up I1-I8 and E1-E8. Also try not to mix and match the buckets either, altho none of this really matters as we will be adjusting them...
This is where my info comes in. Next step is to measure them (I used digital calipers altho the toyota book recommends a micrometer) Measure each one to 2 decimel places (IE 2.95mm) and record every single one and right it down.
Once everything is back together and the cams are in, you can check the clearances with a feeler guage.
Just looked in my book. The clearance are:
Exhaust 0.36mm (tolerance 0.31-0.41)
Intake 0.20mm (tolerance 0.15-0.25)
Must be checked when cold.
Once you have checked all the gaps you can work out what you need. You can then see if you can swap any of the shims around you have, then once you can swap no more its time to work out what size you need to buy from toyota.
They are not cheap - about £3-4 each if i recall, so can be expensive if you need a lot!
From what i see there are 17 shim sizes. Range from 2.500 to 3.300 in 0.050 increments:
Ie 2.500, 2.550, 2.600, 2.650 etc
So for example if you had a clearance of 0.35 on an intake valve with a 2.63 shim (you wont get exact measurements like the book when measuring used shims!) you need to lose approx 0.15mm, so add 0.15 to the shim size = 2.780. This is where is gets tricky as there is no 2.780 it is 2.750 or 2.800. Id probably go for the 2.800 giving 0.18 gap which altho a little tight is within tolerance and will probably open up a little as it all runs in anyway.
Just seen - there is a forumula:
N = T + (A - 0.20) intake
N = T + (A - 0.36) Exhaust
T = thickness of old shim
A = measured clearance
N = new shim size
so N = 2.63 + (0.35 - 0.20)
which is exactly what i said above: N = 2.63+0.15 = 2.78
Then it just says to choose a shim that takes it within tolerance.
hope this helps
gorganl2000
Lifer
great info there harvey.....i did not want to get into all that....as i figured he just replacing some valve stem seals
Just prise them witrh a tiny screwdriver where there is a slot in the bucket (you will know what i mean when you take one out) They are only sat in there but obvious with being in there for x amount of years they dont tend to just fall out.
Also beware when removing the cams to lock the intake cams spring loaded camgear with an M6 bolt before you take them out!
Also beware when removing the cams to lock the intake cams spring loaded camgear with an M6 bolt before you take them out!
gorganl2000
Lifer
if everything is working properly.....as is......i would not remove the shims from the buckets..........but take them out as a whole unit (shim in each bucket respectively)and mark them up accordingly as we stated earlier-----that's what i normally do
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Yes good man Harvery, we should join forces and do some write ups, that one last night killed me! :homer:
Great info this, maybe worth stickying..
T
Great info this, maybe worth stickying..
T
He wants to grind/lap his valves though so he needs to measure the shims prior to refitting so he can work it all out on which shims he will need to buy!
Yeah no probs Toby. Always willing to help. I have a toyota 5EFE repair manual so its rather useful for things like this
gorganl2000
Lifer
ok harvey...then in that case he has to reshim....just follow your guide....its not anything i like though...lol---takes a little time....lol