air maf sensor

Jay

Admin
TE-Connectivity---AMP-2822365-1.png
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The original plug with lockplate and seal maybe different color: (only 150 pennies) te internal #: 2822365-1 oem number?: 178392-2
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/7122251/
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The true genuine dark green plug: te part number is 2822365-3 on aliexpress you can find it under 178392-4

PINS
female pins: 171630-1 wire range avs 0.2~0.5 insulation dia 1.4~2.4mm
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-terminals/7122006/female pins: 171662-1 wire range avs 0.5~1.25 insulation dia 2~2.6mm
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-terminals/6795063/
WIRE SEAL (if wire insulation has a diameter of 1.4~2.4mm)
wire seal black: te internal #: 2822352-1
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-seals/6806949/
WIRE SEAL (if wire insulation has a diameter of 2~2.6mm)
wire seal brown: te internal #: 1-172888-3
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-seals/7199652/
You will be able to buy yourself a lifetime supply

Note: these probably fit but will not be the same as OEM:
F7121337-01

Alternative build it yourself plug
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/7121337/
yellow bit for locking or something: 174353-7
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-accessories/7174338/
edit:
Revision 1.0
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
The weird thing is that the connector doesn’t seem to be ruined. We tried with the tester and the signal is nominal. I will try to Bridget with an extension straight to the sensor to see if it works before cutting the connector.
Can you send me the distributor OEM? I can order only from Japan. Thanks
 

Jay

Admin
You may have caught it early enough then. Still worth sorting the weeping seal though.

Part number for the O-ring is 90099-14088 and it shouldn't cost too much.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I appreciate your help. I will test again the connector tonight and we will look for the distributor seal. The thing is that if the connector isn’t compromised then how come I get the 22 error? Before trying fuel rail pressure I briged the fuel tank pump to activate it at first in key pre ignition and after 15 seconds I cranked but it didn’t work. The feeling is that there isn’t enough air in the cylinders when the car is cold and only after10 times it starts the engine starts. What other component is involved in cold/hot air/fuel ignition? When the Engine is warm the car starts perfectly. I guess that the sensor is set to hot and doesn’t set to cold when needed. Another thing I hear whenever I turn on the engine and I push the gas is a ticking that might be the valves. It slowly stops doing after a few hundred meters drive. That must be the valve crossed system or the hydraulic. Basically there isn’t enough oil in the head and you hear that noise until lubrication is proper.
 
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SKINY

Lifer
Hey Frankie, just picking up on what Jay has said about the oil ring on the distributor leaking. Not only can it end up wrecking wires it gets at but if its leaking Into the distributor itself that can cause problems and various faults. Its pretty standard for the distributor oil seals to fail on any Toyota engine, it's a "Toyota thing" just like ge series engines baking rocker gaskets and the earlier versions eating head gaskets for fun.
Good luck with it bud :)
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
it's a "Toyota thing"
I love this one!
Definitely my old engine had leaks everywhere but it never missed a crank! Got to solve this problem because I start to get tired of having the internals apart. I need to find a distributor gasket in Europe because from Japan takes a few weeks. The weird thing is the connector that looks pretty clean and the wires are not interrupted so how come the eater temp sensor doesn’t do his job?
 
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Frankieflowers

Member +
Ended up replacing the connector with a spare to sort it
I ended up cutting the wires that were basically cracked and welded it in the same connector until I will find another new connector to replace it with. My brother figured out that the circuit impedance is very high on the ECU pin 4 connector so he checked the ECU but didn’t find malfunctions. He said that probably the wire has a short circuit on the way to the ECU. Do you know if the wire goes straight from the sensor without interruptions? I will have to pull the harness out and I really want to know how I can get rid of the rubber seal to get it’s properly in the car with more margin. It’s too short because the starlet is smaller than the Corolla.
 

Jay

Admin
Sounds like you are on the right track?

You may have to extend some of the wiring to make the loom sit correctly in the Corolla. Last thing you want are any wires under tension or rubbing against other components.

From this diagram the wiring is direct:
 

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Frankieflowers

Member +
Sounds like you are on the right track?

You may have to extend some of the wiring to make the loom sit correctly in the Corolla. Last thing you want are any wires under tension or rubbing against other components.

From this diagram the wiring is direct:
I’m glad to tell you that I solved the problem. Not only the water temp sensor connection which we fixed by connecting the small sensor (single yellow wire) by himself to the cluster and leaving the gleen/black wire (from the 2 wire water temp connector) but we also solved the check engine light dilemma. It disappeared after fixing the wires. I will need to change the water temp to pin connector because it’s destroyed. We had to change the wire that wouldn’t stay properly in the Corolla ii2 connector. So the car starts properly and there is no recovery mode anymore. No error whatsoever that means no 22 and 42 in the diagnostics. I will drive it a few days and see how it behaves. I already felt it had more power in the low RPM. Eventually the air to fuel retail will be more precise as the ECU will work as it should. Next phase is to fix the whole wire block and get the ECU properly in please. Then the next step will be the new intercooler and pipes. I will go see the tuner next week to hear his opinion about the oil problem and eventually I will have to invest €500 to get the valve gaskets replaced. I still need to check the turbo and see if there is a oil leak. I have to change the distributor gasket that leaks. 8CFA4166-3016-42B1-AC3F-71387F31D7F6.jpeg
 

Jay

Admin
Thats great news Frankie, it took a while but we got there in the end!

Isn't wiring fun?
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Thats great news Frankie, it took a while but we got there in the end!

Isn't wiring fun?
Yes I’m glad we made it. I love wiring and as a sound engineer I love that part of the job. The only thing I don’t like is putting my body in an uncomfortable position underneath the steering wheel
 

SKINY

Lifer
Happy days Frankie :) the Australian position we call that under the dash manouevre lmfao
If you put your fingers in and grab the compressor wheel nut on the turbo you Should have a tiny bit of up/down play but should be no in/out play.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
glad to hear your got it sorted out
The engine now runs properly. There is more power and I think it was because the ECU was in recovery mode. Now it feels right. I ordered the Volvo rubber ceilings and the next mechanic job will be replacing them and cleaning up the head. There is a little bit of blue smoke when on idle. The plugs Berks look good though so I’m not sure if it’s a piston ring or either a turbo leak. Consider that the engine is running decat. I am not going to open the engine to change the oil ceiling rings. Next job is a Intercooler. I have to cut the front chassis to fit it. Then I will go to see my guy to choose the proper Piggyback and map it. I cannot stand the car limiting at 180 km/h.

question. What’s the nominal turbo boost of the custom ct9 on the ep91 Glanza V 4efte?
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Sounds like you are on the right track?

You may have to extend some of the wiring to make the loom sit correctly in the Corolla. Last thing you want are any wires under tension or rubbing against other components.

From this diagram the wiring is direct:
I’m glad to tell you that I solved the problem. Not only the water temp sensor connection which we fixed by connecting the small sensor (single yellow wire) by himself to the cluster and leaving the gleen/black wire (from the 2 wire water temp connector) but we also solved the check engine light dilemma. It disappeared after fixing the wires. I will need to change the water temp to pin connector because it’s destroyed. We had to change the wire that wouldn’t stay properly in the Corolla ii2 connector. So the car starts properly and there is no recovery mode anymore. No error whatsoever that means no 22 and 42 in the diagnostics. I will drive it a few days and see how it behaves. I already felt it had more power in the low RPM. Eventually the air to fuel retail will be more precise as the ECU will work as it should. Next phase is to fix the whole wire block and get the ECU properly in please. Then the next step will be the new intercooler and pipes. I will go see the tuner next week to hear his opinion about the oil problem and eventually I will have to invest €500 to get the valve gaskets replaced. I still need to check the turbo and see if there is a oil leak. I have to change the distributor gasket that leaks.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Another question I wanna ask is why are the valves ticking when you first start the engine and you start driving. It stops after if you hundred meters. Is it that the oil needs to get on top of the engine?
 
Another question I wanna ask is why are the valves ticking when you first start the engine and you start driving. It stops after if you hundred meters. Is it that the oil needs to get on top of the engine?
yeah pretty much, some cars get lifter tick as they could be dirty OR have not enough oil around them, EVO's suffer from this greatly
granted, its nothing overly major
 
I’m glad to tell you that I solved the problem. Not only the water temp sensor connection which we fixed by connecting the small sensor (single yellow wire) by himself to the cluster and leaving the gleen/black wire (from the 2 wire water temp connector) but we also solved the check engine light dilemma. It disappeared after fixing the wires. I will need to change the water temp to pin connector because it’s destroyed. We had to change the wire that wouldn’t stay properly in the Corolla ii2 connector. So the car starts properly and there is no recovery mode anymore. No error whatsoever that means no 22 and 42 in the diagnostics. I will drive it a few days and see how it behaves. I already felt it had more power in the low RPM. Eventually the air to fuel retail will be more precise as the ECU will work as it should. Next phase is to fix the whole wire block and get the ECU properly in please. Then the next step will be the new intercooler and pipes. I will go see the tuner next week to hear his opinion about the oil problem and eventually I will have to invest €500 to get the valve gaskets replaced. I still need to check the turbo and see if there is a oil leak. I have to change the distributor gasket that leaks. View attachment 7135


it seems you have cut the bonnet and used some mesh where the intercooler is? do you have some kind of "scoop" or external air guide/feed to the intercooler?
i was wondering if this current set up will cause the engine to see higher than normal air intake temps while driving, if there is no constant air flow over the intercooler...possibly resulting in some knock and ecu retard timing, essentially reducing performance?? this is just a side thought

the mesh would help with letting hot engine air out when you stop and possibly while driving...but i'm talking about cooler air reaching the TMIC while driving.

i suppose the FMIC set up in the future will cure these issues, but you still have to deal with the present as well
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
it seems you have cut the bonnet and used some mesh where the intercooler is? do you have some kind of "scoop" or external air guide/feed to the intercooler?
i was wondering if this current set up will cause the engine to see higher than normal air intake temps while driving, if there is no constant air flow over the intercooler...possibly resulting in some knock and ecu retard timing, essentially reducing performance?? this is just a side thought

the mesh would help with letting hot engine air out when you stop and possibly while driving...but i'm talking about cooler air reaching the TMIC while driving.

i suppose the FMIC set up in the future will cure these issues, but you still have to deal with the present as well
Are used a cut hard foam to isolate the top IC. I will soon proceed with the front mount intercooler work. Step by step Everything will be done properly.
 
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