air maf sensor

Jay

Admin
TE-Connectivity---AMP-2822365-1.png
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The original plug with lockplate and seal maybe different color: (only 150 pennies) te internal #: 2822365-1 oem number?: 178392-2
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/7122251/
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The true genuine dark green plug: te part number is 2822365-3 on aliexpress you can find it under 178392-4

PINS
female pins: 171630-1 wire range avs 0.2~0.5 insulation dia 1.4~2.4mm
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-terminals/7122006/female pins: 171662-1 wire range avs 0.5~1.25 insulation dia 2~2.6mm
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-terminals/6795063/
WIRE SEAL (if wire insulation has a diameter of 1.4~2.4mm)
wire seal black: te internal #: 2822352-1
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-seals/6806949/
WIRE SEAL (if wire insulation has a diameter of 2~2.6mm)
wire seal brown: te internal #: 1-172888-3
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-seals/7199652/
You will be able to buy yourself a lifetime supply

Note: these probably fit but will not be the same as OEM:
F7121337-01

Alternative build it yourself plug
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/7121337/
yellow bit for locking or something: 174353-7
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-accessories/7174338/
edit:
Revision 1.0
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
The weird thing is that the connector doesn’t seem to be ruined. We tried with the tester and the signal is nominal. I will try to Bridget with an extension straight to the sensor to see if it works before cutting the connector.
Can you send me the distributor OEM? I can order only from Japan. Thanks
 

Jay

Admin
You may have caught it early enough then. Still worth sorting the weeping seal though.

Part number for the O-ring is 90099-14088 and it shouldn't cost too much.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I appreciate your help. I will test again the connector tonight and we will look for the distributor seal. The thing is that if the connector isn’t compromised then how come I get the 22 error? Before trying fuel rail pressure I briged the fuel tank pump to activate it at first in key pre ignition and after 15 seconds I cranked but it didn’t work. The feeling is that there isn’t enough air in the cylinders when the car is cold and only after10 times it starts the engine starts. What other component is involved in cold/hot air/fuel ignition? When the Engine is warm the car starts perfectly. I guess that the sensor is set to hot and doesn’t set to cold when needed. Another thing I hear whenever I turn on the engine and I push the gas is a ticking that might be the valves. It slowly stops doing after a few hundred meters drive. That must be the valve crossed system or the hydraulic. Basically there isn’t enough oil in the head and you hear that noise until lubrication is proper.
 
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SKINY

Lifer
Hey Frankie, just picking up on what Jay has said about the oil ring on the distributor leaking. Not only can it end up wrecking wires it gets at but if its leaking Into the distributor itself that can cause problems and various faults. Its pretty standard for the distributor oil seals to fail on any Toyota engine, it's a "Toyota thing" just like ge series engines baking rocker gaskets and the earlier versions eating head gaskets for fun.
Good luck with it bud :)
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
it's a "Toyota thing"
I love this one!
Definitely my old engine had leaks everywhere but it never missed a crank! Got to solve this problem because I start to get tired of having the internals apart. I need to find a distributor gasket in Europe because from Japan takes a few weeks. The weird thing is the connector that looks pretty clean and the wires are not interrupted so how come the eater temp sensor doesn’t do his job?
 
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Frankieflowers

Member +
Ended up replacing the connector with a spare to sort it
I ended up cutting the wires that were basically cracked and welded it in the same connector until I will find another new connector to replace it with. My brother figured out that the circuit impedance is very high on the ECU pin 4 connector so he checked the ECU but didn’t find malfunctions. He said that probably the wire has a short circuit on the way to the ECU. Do you know if the wire goes straight from the sensor without interruptions? I will have to pull the harness out and I really want to know how I can get rid of the rubber seal to get it’s properly in the car with more margin. It’s too short because the starlet is smaller than the Corolla.
 

Jay

Admin
Sounds like you are on the right track?

You may have to extend some of the wiring to make the loom sit correctly in the Corolla. Last thing you want are any wires under tension or rubbing against other components.

From this diagram the wiring is direct:
 

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