Annoying problems..help need???

Garci

Member +
Hi guys need some help, car pissing me off. Ok car use to run fine before mod.

mods:2.5" buddy club exhaust, k&n filter,toy tuning actuator, 225lph pump, turboxs fcd, weapon R fpr set to 45psi.

Problems:
1. fuel cut, but after fooling around with the actuator it does backfire & pop often anymore on Lo, only on Hi boost.

2. car really hard to start take like 3-4 long crank be4 finally barely starts-up. so i checked and replace rotor,dis Cap,fuel filter, fuel pump, & pcv valve. , but still hard to start i had to remove the weapon R fpr, and put back the stock one, as the weapon R fpr seem like it was leaking there was fuel coming from the vacuum port sometimes:confused:
(is that how the adjustable fuel press regulator works?)
anyways now it starts with the first crank. weird. any1 know why is that??

3. now the most annoying is, for months now when i first start up the car it idles at around 1200rpm & if u press the brakes it doesnt it doesnt drop,but once warm up it idles at around 750-800rpm now if i press on the brake pedal the rpm drops to around 500rpm and keeps bouncing between the 500-800rpm sometimes at stop lights i have to keep revving as it drop so low that it almost stalls. i check vacuum lines and i dont find any leaks. so am clue-less any1 can else have this problem and how to fix???

4.also i have a glowshift boost gauge, & the needle isnt settle on a set number under vacuum bounce between 15-20hg at idle and 30hg while driving over 100km. it also spitting out some blackish water on startup.
is that right or is something wrong with my engine???:confused: any help welcome.
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
1. fuel cut is a fact of life when you start tuning these cars. all you can do is turn down the actuator or fit a fcd or some kind of ecu.

2. throw that cheap fpr away and get a decent one.

3. this could be a few things. have you done an ecu error check? could be you have a leak in your brake servo that isnt easy to find. you could block the pipe running to the brake servo and see if that solves the problem, be aware that your brakes will not be very easy to press with the servo disconnected.

4. blackish water from startup is fine, as long as its not excessive and clears up when the car is nicely warmed up.
where have you plummed the boost gauge in? it sounds like its a cheap one so that may be half the problem. it will also act strange if you have a vacuum leak.
 

Garci

Member +
1. yeh i have done a error code check when it was hard to start, and i got (NO code).
2. blackish water from startup ,yes it goes away after the car warms up. so thats fine?
3. as for the boost gauge i plummed it inline with the vacuum that run to stock bov.
4. vacuum leak i start the car and i use a spray bottle with soap and water to spray the vac lines but i didnt see any leaks.

questions:
1. what fpr & boost guage would you recommend?
2. am gathering part right now to go TD04L in after winter , if i using a S-afc 2 with the TD04 setup,would i still have fuel-cut problems? if so what other cheap piggy-back could eliminated fuel-cut?
3. where is the brake servo located? i suppose brake servo suggestion would be about the Rpm dropping right?
 

lanxter

Member +
have you had afr checked or just put fpr on and set it by the guage. fuelcut is a pain in the ass tbh most gt's do it once you change from stock air box or stock actuator
 

Garci

Member +
No i havent done afr check, when i bought the weapon r fpr i just installed it and set it to 37-40- 45psi by pressure gauge and didnt make no difference, was pumping fuel out the vacuum port when i try to set it up. then it was really hard to start so i took it off and go back to stock regulator now it start fine
 

Sheldon

Malta Area Rep.
1 big problem i see there...

stop using cheap stuff!

get a sard FPR!

as for fcd - JAM / HKS

before replacing the cheapish boost giage try to get reading directly from the plenum.. theres a pipe going for the map sensor.. use that. as the standard dumpvalve could be leaking and thats why its playing with readings i guess..

as for the black water thats just condensation mixed with exhaust.. unless your rad water level is dropping...
 
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