Glanza V figuring out overheating issue

[beaunh]

Hello
I have a Glanza V which tends to get a bit hot when sitting in traffic during hot weather.
Since it only happens while standing still and not really when it gets enough air flow during driving I expect it might be caused by the radiator fan.
If I turn on the heater before it gets hot its usually able to stay on the right temperature but I would like to fix this issue for good.

Some info about the car:
- CT9 hybrid turbo
- FMIC
- Air intake relocated to front bumper (looks like the ID Workz kit)
- 0.8 bar boost
- Civic half rad(50mm) with fanshroud and 12" fan (unknown brand)

I have a few questions in trying to figure out what might be causing the overheating and trying to fix it.

• How can I check if the fan is functioning correctly? Should it turn on once the car is at operating temperature or only when its starting to overheat
• 50mm radiator should be sufficient but (potentially budget) fan might be an issue. What amperage draw can a Glanza handle for a fan?
• Is it worth to create a (aluminum) shroud between air intake and turbo?
• Any other things I should check?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Jay]

Hi mate,

Could be a number of things but I'll cover the questions first.

The temperature needle on the cluster should never rise above normal operating temperature.

The fan should only flick on when the engine temp raises above normal operating temperature.

You can check it's functioning by unplugging the fan switch on the thermostat housing.

Civic radiator should be fine.

Anything to keep the intake air temperature down should help engine power but it won't affect the operation of the cooling system.




Does the temperature gauge fluctuate or stay midway?

 

[dac69er]

Just to add, I replaced the sensor for the cluster temp gauge for a brand new one and found that normal operating temp sits just under midway as normal, but it does rise a bit when going over normal temp up until the fan comes on.

The original sensor acted like jay described, went to the middle and never went any higher, even when it got hot enough for the fan to come on.

Just something to consider that if the sensor has been changed it may react differently.

 

[beaunh]

Hello, thanks for the information, I'll test the fan later today using the described method.
With regards to the temperature needle. With normal driving it will stay slightly before the half way point (operating temp) and not move at all.

When sitting in traffic I will see the needle start to move slowly. If I'm quick enough with turning on the heater and blower fully it will drop back down. If I'm not quick enough it will rise and is not able to cool itself down without driving and I'll have to quickly turn it back off.

 

[gorganl2000]

is your fan actually cycling on/off when the car's up to operating temperature and sitting stationary?

 

[daniel_g]

I would flush the coolant system with a hose and put fresh coolant in. Check there aren't an bubbles ie exhaust gas in the expansion tank.

If the fan isn't great it can be replaced with a better one, Spal is a good quality unit.

Other than that you could wire the fan in with a relay and switch or fit an aftermarket fan controller.

 

[beaunh]

Fan switch on the thermostat housing seems to be pretty stuck so testing that will have to wait till I get home this weekend and have some tools.
Fan wiring connector connection seems to be pretty bad so that might actually already be the issue but I'd like to verify that its broken before fixing that.

@daniel_g I was looking at upgrading to a Spal unit but I'm getting pretty lost in the amount of options. Any suggestions for what model or what the max amperage is that the Glanza could handle? Trying to prevent upgrading to a fan that the electrical system is not able to handle.

 

[gorganl2000]

with regards to the fan...i run a 14" generic fan (probably very similar design to your 12" fan) which was cheap and works great on my set up...it covers a large percentage area of the radiator and provides plenty of cooling when its turns ON....in my opinion, the shroud is unnecessary when using the 14" fan,,, i can't speak directly on the 12" unit and shroud combination

i think some of the generic/aftermarket shrouds may restrict normal airflow through the radiator if built incorrectly...i'm not an engineer, nor have i done any conclusive research/testing, but if you compare the typical oem spacious cylindrical/cone shaped shroud design to some of the close fitting "boxy/square" type generic shrouds, you may see where my concerns arise..

anyway, i originally installed the generic 14" fan around April 2018 with a triple core 52mm civic radiator...my plan was to use the locally purchased generic 14" fan temporarily until the SPAL fan i had ordered from overseas arrived a week or two later ....fast forward to July 2023, my SPAL fan is still in the box as a back up as i'm very happy with the way the 14" generic fan has performed

 

[daniel_g]

Fan switch on the thermostat housing seems to be pretty stuck so testing that will have to wait till I get home this weekend and have some tools.
Fan wiring connector connection seems to be pretty bad so that might actually already be the issue but I'd like to verify that its broken before fixing that.

@daniel_g I was looking at upgrading to a Spal unit but I'm getting pretty lost in the amount of options. Any suggestions for what model or what the max amperage is that the Glanza could handle? Trying to prevent upgrading to a fan that the electrical system is not able to handle.

To be perfectly honest the starlet wiring is very old now and not that great, when upgrading things like fans and fuel pumps it is always best practice to wire in an additional relay.

You can get relay wiring kits on ebay for about 20 quid if thats an easier option.

 

[SKINY]

I've definitely seen my fair share of old Toyota wiring breaking down with age having years at working at Celicas a multimeter is your friend

On the fan topic, mine is a 12 inch slimline "spal type" and it runs all the time because the air con is removed for HP. The connection for it is jumped so it should work normally on/off bit it doesn't, my thermostatic switch on the radiator is probably away but as long as it stays on I'm happy

 

[beaunh]

I've replaced the fan with a 12" SPAL fan, flushed and bled the coolant and redid the fan wiring. I can hear the fan turn on when necessary and it stays cold. Issue seems to be fixed.
Thanks for the information and all you suggestions!