goldenvtr
Member +
though i might tkae some pics along the way when i put mine on do here we go. please remeber this is only a GUIDE.
Tools requierd :
Bonnet pins
Drill with varies sized bits
Tip Ex
Marker pen
Rivet Gun with small rivers or small screw's (youll see why in a few moments)
So start off by choosing how you want them, i went for a 45 deg angle that followed the curve of the indicators. so heres them being test alliged:
Next whipout your drill and a bit the same size as the eyebolt and drill into the main frame here as i have done:
Now get it to a lowish level so that it would only just protrude above the bonnet if the bonnet was to be closed.
Then whipout your tipex and put some ontop of the eye bolt(refer back to the last pic and youll see i have done that
Now slowly close the bonnet so that it rests onto the eyebolt foe a few seconds, how open the bonnet up again and youll have you next drilling maker.
The procede to CAREFULLY drill through the first layer in the bonnet as seen here you want to make it the size of the eyebolt with some leway all around it due to the bonnet coming down at an angle to the bolt
now you have your 1st hole repeat the tipex monouver as seen here:
Now drill a SMALL hole in the tipex marker and procede to close the bonnet one more, this time you should be able to see though the hole to the top of the eye bolt:
so now you want to roughly draw the size of the eyebolt as seen in my last pic, the drill out so the eyebolt can pass though:
Being more carful that i was this is how it might look by now
Thinking oh shit i closed the bonnet to see this:
now lining up the actual pin and fine tunning height and angle of the pin
now with the pin in place get out a small drill and drill though the 2 small holes for the rivet (no pics of this sorry)
Once your happy with the angle pop the rivets into the small holes and you have something looking like this:
thats the underside
and from ontop:
Now you have successfully (hopefully) got the pin riveted down you can put the last rivet in the back of the pin.
Rember when linning up the pin to open and close the bonnet to make sure the eyebolt can pass though without scrapping the outer edge of the hole. you may need to file after riveting for a fine tune.
now repeat for the other side getting a much better result because now you know what your doing:
If you want to be perfect get out a tape mesure and start mesuring the location of you last eye bolt and make a mark on the other side to start with your eye bolt.
Repeat all of the above for the other side.
once both sides are down, fine tune the height of the eyebolts and check the bonnet closes down fine, you want to have to press down on the bonnet to get teh pins in but not too much strain, this is to ensure the bonnet is actually held down and will not flap about.
So the finished result:
PS the reason for ME fitting these bonnet pins is strickly safty as even at 60mph the bonnet would flap about quite dramatically. yet alone at 140 on my trackday when i was at Castle combe.
i physically cannot move the bonnet atall now unlike before i could lift it a few mm either side of the bonnet catch.
Tools requierd :
Bonnet pins
Drill with varies sized bits
Tip Ex
Marker pen
Rivet Gun with small rivers or small screw's (youll see why in a few moments)
So start off by choosing how you want them, i went for a 45 deg angle that followed the curve of the indicators. so heres them being test alliged:
Next whipout your drill and a bit the same size as the eyebolt and drill into the main frame here as i have done:
Now get it to a lowish level so that it would only just protrude above the bonnet if the bonnet was to be closed.
Then whipout your tipex and put some ontop of the eye bolt(refer back to the last pic and youll see i have done that
Now slowly close the bonnet so that it rests onto the eyebolt foe a few seconds, how open the bonnet up again and youll have you next drilling maker.
The procede to CAREFULLY drill through the first layer in the bonnet as seen here you want to make it the size of the eyebolt with some leway all around it due to the bonnet coming down at an angle to the bolt
now you have your 1st hole repeat the tipex monouver as seen here:
Now drill a SMALL hole in the tipex marker and procede to close the bonnet one more, this time you should be able to see though the hole to the top of the eye bolt:
so now you want to roughly draw the size of the eyebolt as seen in my last pic, the drill out so the eyebolt can pass though:
Being more carful that i was this is how it might look by now
Thinking oh shit i closed the bonnet to see this:
now lining up the actual pin and fine tunning height and angle of the pin
now with the pin in place get out a small drill and drill though the 2 small holes for the rivet (no pics of this sorry)
Once your happy with the angle pop the rivets into the small holes and you have something looking like this:
thats the underside
and from ontop:
Now you have successfully (hopefully) got the pin riveted down you can put the last rivet in the back of the pin.
Rember when linning up the pin to open and close the bonnet to make sure the eyebolt can pass though without scrapping the outer edge of the hole. you may need to file after riveting for a fine tune.
now repeat for the other side getting a much better result because now you know what your doing:
If you want to be perfect get out a tape mesure and start mesuring the location of you last eye bolt and make a mark on the other side to start with your eye bolt.
Repeat all of the above for the other side.
once both sides are down, fine tune the height of the eyebolts and check the bonnet closes down fine, you want to have to press down on the bonnet to get teh pins in but not too much strain, this is to ensure the bonnet is actually held down and will not flap about.
So the finished result:
PS the reason for ME fitting these bonnet pins is strickly safty as even at 60mph the bonnet would flap about quite dramatically. yet alone at 140 on my trackday when i was at Castle combe.
i physically cannot move the bonnet atall now unlike before i could lift it a few mm either side of the bonnet catch.
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