july 10th santa pod rwyb night special

el_man

el_man

Fresh Recruit
anyone going?

me and a few mates are i got a few rival matchs against them i got a few little tricks for them anyidea what time i will get???, im on a td04 13psi on a fcd n rrfpr setup i got coilies anti lift kit all that, im also running r888s and put reflextive heat wrap on the intercooler pipe and got a co2 fire extinguisher to blast the intercooler before i go up the strip if its a hot day
 
finx

finx

Member +
TD04l at that boost with a good tune should see low 14s high 13s with the right car set up to match

loads to consider, check some of the drag wright ups i have done

heat wrap on the intercooler is a bad idea, you want as much heat to escape from them as possible not be trapped inside


suspension
if adjustable put the rear an inch-two higher than the front
you want the rear shocks and springs as hard as possible
fronts need medium damper to absorb any shock but not sagg to much as that will slow you down

steering
get a wheel inlinement it makes a huge difference to traction.
have them set the camber to 1deg and a small amount of toe out but only very minimal
if your serious have the camber set to zero to maximise the tyre contact on the road. even one degree lowers the amount of tyre on the ground considerably

tyres
if running street tyres adjust the pressures to suit conditions. if track temp is high dont go too low and if med-cold max you want to drop them to is 18psi

semi slicks/ street radials
drop the pressures to suit temps again. i run my hoosiers at 8-10psi with my best 60ft being 1.91sec and consistantly running in the 1.9# range/low 2.0
unless you are comfortable with your car set up and know extactly what you are doing as one psi makes a huge difference then stick to 14-20psi



Launch
with a fwd you need to get the balance right between clutch slip and the speed at which you drop it this is very tricky
launch rpm is very important, you need to work out what works best for your cAR/set up to maximize speed without causing too much wheel spin. trial and error is the best method




pre race tips

dont eat pies
have a energy drink to sharpen your reactions
take as much weight and loose objects out of the car as you can without causing an inconvenience
extinguisher on the intercooler can help but its really expensive way of doing it unless you have shares or a farther that works at the firm
make sure you car doesnt have any oil or coolant leaks the track officals and other racers will kick you in the face roundhouse styles if you leave crap all the way down the track
make sure you battery is secure

there is more but i dont want to stress you out, just go and have fun legally and let us know how you get on



cheers
Ryan
 
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finx

finx

Member +
thats only a small fragment of what is required to set up/run a drag car. people who say its easy to drive in a straight line make me laugh.

basically the above is for those who want to take a street car to the track for a blat and make the best of their set up. it should see you get 60-80% of the performance from you set up and make a good time without disadvantaging your street set up, comfort or spending to much time.
it takes a hell of allot more to get that last 20%

practice practice practice makes perfect, and trial and error, dont keep doing the same thing every run unless you know it works. try different launch techniques and shift times gear changed etc and you will figure out what works best for your car


best of luck to all going to this meeting
 
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el_man

el_man

Fresh Recruit
cheers for the advice i`ve done loads of runs at santa pod jsut never been up on r888s and my td04 so interested to know how it goes
 
finx

finx

Member +
= more power and more grip if the tune/set up is right and you adjust to drive it correctly to suit the application.
 
durmz

durmz

Member +
finx said:
heat wrap on the intercooler is a bad idea, you want as much heat to escape from them as possible not be trapped inside
Click to expand...

yo finx was just looking over this again and thought about this point.

the pipe that goes from the cooler to the inlet that runs through the bay.

would the ambient temperature in the engine bay not be more than the temp in the pipe? meaning heat wouldnt be getting out of the pipe, but actually heat from the bay getting into the pipe?

tell me if this is wrong? just trying to figure it out.
 
finx

finx

Member +
hey dude just seen your question

the air inside the intercooler pipe on the cold side will be much lower in temp than the engine bay in most instances yes depending on weather conditions and the type of driving your doing/


The problem with heat wraping the intercooler pipe is this:

Heat wrap is designed to be an insulator, which absorbs heat and helps keep it in.
with this in mind it tells us that by heat wrapping the intercooler pipe which will be a cooler temprature than the ambient temps in the engine bay you will actually heat the pipe up more than if you were to leave it bare.




Cheers
Ryan
 
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durmz

durmz

Member +
finx said:
hey dude just seen your question

the air inside the intercooler pipe on the cold side will be much lower in temp than the engine bay in most instances yes depending on weather conditions and the type of driving your doing/


The problem with heat wraping the intercooler pipe is this:

Heat wrap is designed to be an insulator, which absorbs heat and helps keep it in.
with this in mind it tells us that by heat wrapping the intercooler pipe which will be a cooler temprature than the ambient temps in the engine bay you will actually heat the pipe up more than if you were to leave it bare.




Cheers
Ryan
Click to expand...

See i had a different view of what insulation actually is, i thought an insulator is actually there to reduce a transfer of energy, from either side, it doesnt absorb heat, it does the opposite, it takes long to change temperature. If you put hot soup in a flask, it will stay hot as it stops energy passing through it, you fill it with ice, it will stay ice for longer.

Tell me if im wrong? Ie why does a coolbag work? Im more than open to be told im wrong, just trying to share thoughts and learn
 
starletgtturbo1

starletgtturbo1

Member +
the air that goes through your intercooler pipes is not realy cold already 50-80deg.Volume of air VS surface area of the coldside piping isn't enough to make a noticable difference.An intercoolder is designed to maximise surface area in contact with the volume of air.If I apply this exact same method to my aircon pipes in my engine bay, will my aircon be 10deg colder?

No...

better of trying
Cooler inlet temps(dry ice, W-A IC etc.)
water/meth injection
 
lleey2k4

lleey2k4

Member +
I wouldn't use heat wrap on my intercooler cold side id use heat reflective tape.

Good advise up there Finx think im gonna get some slicks.

On a TD04 at that boost you should be aiming for low to mid 14s i got a 14.6 at 0.38 bar and was running 14.8's most the day at pod on a warm day.
 
durmz

durmz

Member +
starletgtturbo1 said:
the air that goes through your intercooler pipes is not realy cold already 50-80deg.Volume of air VS surface area of the coldside piping isn't enough to make a noticable difference.An intercoolder is designed to maximise surface area in contact with the volume of air.If I apply this exact same method to my aircon pipes in my engine bay, will my aircon be 10deg colder?

No...

better of trying
Cooler inlet temps(dry ice, W-A IC etc.)
water/meth injection
Click to expand...

Yeah thats a valid point, but regardless of surface area radiant heat in the bay is almost constant on a steady drive, so they will get hot,

Im just trying to get to the bottom of the theory
 
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