Lowering the back another 10mm
- Thread starter cooz93
- Start date
waglanzav
Fresh Recruit
I had the same problem with my Rs-r lowering springs. I found a place that "reset" the rear springs for me, maybe you can find somewhere locally?
I told them how much I wanted to lower the ride height and took the springs in to them. They reset the height, re heat-treat them and powder coat them. Unlike chopping the springs which is not safe, these are not loose with no weight on the car. It was very cheap too.
dac69er
Super Moderator
never heard of that mate. sounds a bit odd as heat treating them would make them more brittle and likely to snap surely? what was the company called? you sure they didnt just cut a coil off, powder coat them and then give you some bullshit about what they did?
Rory
Lifer
This sounds dodgy as hell! :haha:
By the sounds of it, the boy has taken a blow torch to your springs, heated them up until the point of sagging, let the sag a bit and let them cool off. Rough as a badgers arse if you ask me.
By the sounds of it, the boy has taken a blow torch to your springs, heated them up until the point of sagging, let the sag a bit and let them cool off. Rough as a badgers arse if you ask me.
waglanzav
Fresh Recruit
Boy? Blowtorch? I had it done at a professional workshop mate. It's not dodgey at all and not bullshit guys. Go to a professional spring shop and ask them about it and they will explain it better than me.
The spring ends up the same length as standard, same spring rate too, and it just sits lower. As far as I know it's done more on trucks than small cars, and this place I used MANUFACTURES new springs for truck suspension. Basically they "remanufacture" your spring to your specifications.
There's different types of heat treatment, all springs are heat treated.
That doesnt make sense to me,for it to sit lower,surely the spring has to be softer.if its the same length as a stock spring?
Rory does no about heat treatments etc......
Rory
Lifer
Please tell me how the spring can be the same length, yet lower it further. If it was the same length it would be miles softer in return ruining the handling.
I know all springs are heat treated, im not daft.
I know all springs are heat treated, im not daft.
waglanzav
Fresh Recruit
I'm not pretending to be an expert lets get that straight right now. Why don't you google it? Or just read the link below mate.
http://autospeed.co.nz/cms/title_Resetting-Springs/A_3082/article.html
Take for instance the length of the stock standard rear spring on a glanza, not compressed and removed from the dampener. It's the same length as the "lowered" RS-R spring under the same conditions. I know this as a fact as I had them side by side for comparison and I still had to compress the "lowered" spring to get it on the dampener. Fit that lowered spring to the car and it sits lower yeah? I doubt anyone would dispute that, it's a fact. A "Tein" lowering spring is probably the same overall length as the stock spring as well, but it may sit lower
As for it being softer after modification I'm in the same boat as you as I can't explain it, I'm not an expert. However when driving it feels exactly the same as it was before it was "reset", only it sits lower.
It's just a cheap way to lower your car safely, better than chopping springs. Apparently the spring will sag eventually, it's not an ideal way to do things I agree with that, but it's another option I thought I'd share as it worked very well for me.
MeisterR
Lifer
That is something new for me... last I heard of people doing this was some idiot with a blow torch!
I see what they are doing... and in theory it should work.
Like the article said, it will weaken the springs... which is a down side when you heat up metal.
What I am worry more about is the actual end result springs rate.
Lowering springs are made in such a way that it is design to "compress" more than the standard springs to achieve the lowering effect.
They normally are made in a progressive springs rate because once you lower he car, you will need harder springs rate at the compress state in order to protect the damper from bottoming out.
But looking at this article... the springs rate stay the same...
So that mean you are running the same springs rate with less damper stroke travel than before... so you can see where you will start having problems.
I can see the benefit from a cost point of view if you have a specialist near by... but given the choice I will just find a set of lowering springs that are design for a specific ride with a progressive springs rate to match... or just go straight to coilovers and have "actual" control over the ride height of the suspension.
But that was interesting... never know something like that existed.
I see what they are doing... and in theory it should work.
Like the article said, it will weaken the springs... which is a down side when you heat up metal.
What I am worry more about is the actual end result springs rate.
Lowering springs are made in such a way that it is design to "compress" more than the standard springs to achieve the lowering effect.
They normally are made in a progressive springs rate because once you lower he car, you will need harder springs rate at the compress state in order to protect the damper from bottoming out.
But looking at this article... the springs rate stay the same...
So that mean you are running the same springs rate with less damper stroke travel than before... so you can see where you will start having problems.
I can see the benefit from a cost point of view if you have a specialist near by... but given the choice I will just find a set of lowering springs that are design for a specific ride with a progressive springs rate to match... or just go straight to coilovers and have "actual" control over the ride height of the suspension.
But that was interesting... never know something like that existed.