max'd out potential?

Sheldon

Malta Area Rep.
if u read all my post ul see kon explained it wasnt stock and if u read ul see fatman said low boost which wud mean 1 bar in my book but clearly wasnt the case.
Dont be getting wound up lad its only a Thread
my question 2 you is have u Ran a Turbo similar to td06 25G???
because i have on stock engine and forged (4E)
so i know what im talking about.

G

p.s i dont know it all ;)

low boost can mean anything if your running higher lol!!

did i comment on the td06 that it can/cant be good on a 4e? no i didn't. so why are you asking me and not kon?

you need to chill lad :)
 

finx

Member +
nice post greg, you have nailed that one.

i have kinda taken a backs seat in this debate so far and just enjoyed reading others opinions and experiences.

i myself have been in the starlet game for over 3 and a half years and in the time have learnt a great deal. right back to when i 1st got the car and had a fun time working how how to convert it to manual without any help from such forums like this or even any books. i went down to the local wrecker looked at a manual one and went right guess i need this this and this and ill need to mod this and this to make it work. and then i would go and do all that and bumped into a few problems so had to go back again and again to look at it untill i got it right. took me 3 months to find all the parts and teach myself how everything worked and operated. thats where i started and now im only a hair away from being a fully qualified diesel mechanic and rebuilding 14L cummins and cat engines every second month or so.
my point here is that when info cant be found on how something works or how far it can be pushed you have to go outside the square as it were and look deeper than reading from an instruction manual and push the boundary's a bit. and thats what i think has happened here. obviously in the UK there is a certain path which almost all performance aimed builds take. and i think that you are all very lucky to be able to buy affordable off the shelf kits to acheive the desired gains. in other country's such as malta aus and here in nz just to name a few of the big list of country's that have some very intriguing and fast set ups, we dont have this luxury so we have gone our own different ways to try develop our cars which doesnt mirror you own. which is where the problems start. one of the biggest differences there is the forged versus non stock internals debate. over here it would cost over 3k to forged an engine by the time you have got your new rods and pistons and then bought the engine kit and payed someone to build it. now thats about the most any of the cars get spent on them in total over here (besides the few very fortunate people who have deep pockets and have done mental things. such as the highly debated 380bhp glanza,which i have driven). so you can see where im going. the whole reason the stock bottom end thing happeneds is there just isnt the money there to try and make things safer for want of a better word. we just make do with what toyota has given us and start on our journey of hunting for more power. so because we have taken for granted that toyota (one of the best car manufacturers in the world) knows how to build a good engine to start us off with. esspecially one with a turbo on the side from factory.
(no manufacturer will make an engine that can only cope with what they have allowed it to produce from factory or there would be major reliability issues. a case of this is the cummin 504 diesel v8 engines found very common in the 60s and 70s. they produced 240hp fron stock at 3300rpm. and then at 3400rpm they would blow to a million peaces.)
we go on our merry way with trying to extract the most power possible within our means.
for some people this is just spending 1500bux on a custom td04l set up which is the most common way to go. manifold down pipe, exhaust, front mount a boost controller and a rrfpr. then there are those that want all out power for drags or circuit use, and just keep going and going with upgrades untill the engine gives way. now this bring us back to where i began almost.
the nz record was set by a guy who started out with his car back in 99 and stedily moddifyed it (in his back garden) and turbo set ups came then went as each goal was achieved and the next was hatched. but one thing stayed the same because it hadnt caused any problems. and that was the bottom end. he had purchased a set of forged internals for the day which he thought would always be round the corner when the engine would expire, but it never came. bigger turbos and more boost was added untill the point where he got to the point where he was the fastest in the land and he still hadnt touched the bottom end bar a refreshed 5e with 4efte pistons.

so thats how most of these 'black magic' as you would call them engines have come about. people just trying new things and each time thinking it will blow sooner or later but they get to that stage and think, shit it may take a bit more. so they try it and it still works.

i have personally built many 4es and 5e's in my time. inc one for a mate which was running a t3t4 turbo (this was a street/drag car) which was road tuned and then dynod to 170+wkw on a fully stock 4efte. and i have yet to see one die because of a weakness in the original parts that wasnt caused by something being asked too much of them ie to much ignition timing with mamoth amounts of boost and, not enough fuel or insufficient cooling.
i have almost finnished building a stock rebuilt 5e with 4e pistons for a good friend that will be running a td04 or 5 turbo and pushing power levels of around 150-170kw and this is for a track car. and it will last the distance if the things that have been learnt by those pioneers and the fundamentals from those who know how an engine operates and functions are followed.

my own car is running a stock high compression 9.8:1 5efhe with a ct9 on the side of it. last season my aims were 110wkw and a 13sec 0-400m. it wasnt easy but i did it on low boost. this season im going for low 13s and ill be pushing a high comp 5e further than has ever been done in this country at least (some of the guys in the us will easily eclips me, but they have bigger budgets). ill be doing a members garage and detials will be added as the build progresses. i dont know how far ill get before i break something. i had expected to make the high comp engine implode well before i even got to this point but the more i think and learn about how it works and the more i acheive from personal experiance there more i think and know that more can be extracted and achieved by this little inferior engine.





on another note: this is about the only thing that i think has been posted and wasnt debated or hasnt been properly answered.

thats all Good have no problem with that and the 5E Motor is a great engine for track use
But what my arguement is simple a 4E stock motor running a HUGE Turbo is useless simple as will not be any good for DRAG or track way too laggy and ur Powerband will be almost no exsistant (narrow)
u can get what ever Power reading u want but i put it to you a Stock 4E motor running 380bhp will have no Torque and NARROW powerband!! absolutley Pointless

the part here that i would like to pick out is that of you saying a 'stock 4e with a huge turbo will have no torque and a narrow powerband'. now obviously this was during the debate about how the forged engines are the only ones capable of doing such things. so what i say to you is,
the stock 4e bottom end in many cases has a higher compression ratio than that of almost any forged engine build and any that i have seen on this site. an engine with lower comp ratio is obviously going to handle more boost, but higher boost doesnt mean its going to have more torque just more max hp output. so a stock 4e will have more torque than a forged engine of which you were hypothetically comparing it to by a long way. and where there is more torque also means your going to have bigger power band.
obviously the igniton map and rpm limit will also have a bit part to play with this also


disclaimer
is some of this doesnt make seance thats because its been a very long day.
and if i dont reply right away to any comments/questions to what i have expressed i will do when i have the chance. on slow internet here and i have allot of work on



cheers
Ryan
 
Last edited:

GaryGT

Member +
nice post greg, you have nailed that one.

i have kinda taken a backs seat in this debate so far and just enjoyed reading others opinions and experiences.

i myself have been in the starlet game for over 3 and a half years and in the time have learnt a great deal. right back to when i 1st got the car and had a fun time working how how to convert it to manual without any help from such forums like this or even any books. i went down to the local wrecker looked at a manual one and went right guess i need this this and this and ill need to mod this and this to make it work. and then i would go and do all that and bumped into a few problems so had to go back again and again to look at it untill i got it right. took me 3 months to find all the parts and teach myself how everything worked and operated. thats where i started and now im only a hair away from being a fully qualified diesel mechanic and rebuilding 14L cummins and cat engines every second month or so.
my point here is that when info cant be found on how something works or how far it can be pushed you have to go outside the square as it were and look deeper than reading from an instruction manual and push the boundary's a bit. and thats what i think has happened here. obviously in the UK there is a certain path which almost all performance aimed builds take. and i think that you are all very lucky to be able to buy affordable off the shelf kits to acheive the desired gains. in other country's such as malta aus and here in nz just to name a few of the big list of country's that have some very intriguing and fast set ups, we dont have this luxury so we have gone our own different ways to try develop our cars which doesnt mirror you own. which is where the problems start. one of the biggest differences there is the forged versus non stock internals debate. over here it would cost over 3k to forged an engine by the time you have got your new rods and pistons and then bought the engine kit and payed someone to build it. now thats about the most any of the cars get spent on them in total over here (besides the few very fortunate people who have deep pockets and have done mental things. such as the highly debated 380bhp glanza,which i have driven). so you can see where im going. the whole reason the stock bottom end thing happeneds is there just isnt the money there to try and make things safer for want of a better word. we just make do with what toyota has given us and start on our journey of hunting for more power. so because we have taken for granted that toyota (one of the best car manufacturers in the world) knows how to build a good engine to start us off with. esspecially one with a turbo on the side from factory.
(no manufacturer will make an engine that can only cope with what they have allowed it to produce from factory or there would be major reliability issues. a case of this is the cummin 504 diesel v8 engines found very common in the 60s and 70s. they produced 240hp fron stock at 3300rpm. and then at 3400rpm they would blow to a million peaces.)
we go on our merry way with trying to extract the most power possible within our means.
for some people this is just spending 1500bux on a custom td04l set up which is the most common way to go. manifold down pipe, exhaust, front mount a boost controller and a rrfpr. then there are those that want all out power for drags or circuit use, and just keep going and going with upgrades untill the engine gives way. now this bring us back to where i began almost.
the nz record was set by a guy who started out with his car back in 99 and stedily moddifyed it (in his back garden) and turbo set ups came then went as each goal was achieved and the next was hatched. but one thing stayed the same because it hadnt caused any problems. and that was the bottom end. he had purchased a set of forged internals for the day which he thought would always be round the corner when the engine would expire, but it never came. bigger turbos and more boost was added untill the point where he got to the point where he was the fastest in the land and he still hadnt touched the bottom end bar a refreshed 5e with 4efte pistons.

so thats how most of these 'black magic' as you would call them engines have come about. people just trying new things and each time thinking it will blow sooner or later but they get to that stage and think, shit it may take a bit more. so they try it and it still works.

i have personally built many 4es and 5e's in my time. inc one for a mate which was running a t3t4 turbo (this was a street/drag car) which was road tuned and then dynod to 170+wkw on a fully stock 4efte. and i have yet to see one die because of a weakness in the original parts that wasnt caused by something being asked too much of them ie to much ignition timing with mamoth amounts of boost and, not enough fuel or insufficient cooling.
i have almost finnished building a stock rebuilt 5e with 4e pistons for a good friend that will be running a td04 or 5 turbo and pushing power levels of around 150-170kw and this is for a track car. and it will last the distance if the things that have been learnt by those pioneers and the fundamentals from those who know how an engine operates and functions are followed.

my own car is running a stock high compression 9.8:1 5efhe with a ct9 on the side of it. last season my aims were 110wkw and a 13sec 0-400m. it wasnt easy but i did it on low boost. this season im going for low 13s and ill be pushing a high comp 5e further than has ever been done in this country at least (some of the guys in the us will easily eclips me, but they have bigger budgets). ill be doing a members garage and detials will be added as the build progresses. i dont know how far ill get before i break something. i had expected to make the high comp engine implode well before i even got to this point but the more i think and learn about how it works and the more i acheive from personal experiance there more i think and know that more can be extracted and achieved by this little inferior engine.





on another note: this is about the only thing that i think has been posted and wasnt debated or hasnt been properly answered.



the part here that i would like to pick out is that of you saying a 'stock 4e with a huge turbo will have no torque and a narrow powerband'. now obviously this was during the debate about how the forged engines are the only ones capable of doing such things. so what i say to you is,
the stock 4e bottom end in many cases has a higher compression ratio than that of almost any forged engine build and any that i have seen on this site. an engine with lower comp ratio is obviously going to handle more boost, but higher boost doesnt mean its going to have more torque just more max hp output. so a stock 4e will have more torque than a forged engine of which you were hypothetically comparing it to by a long way. and where there is more torque also means your going to have bigger power band.
obviously the igniton map and rpm limit will also have a bit part to play with this also




disclaimer
is some of this doesnt make seance thats because its been a very long day.
and if i dont reply right away to any comments/questions to what i have expressed i will do when i have the chance. on slow internet here and i have allot of work on



cheers
Ryan



all Forged engines have lower compression than stock engines???
well ive built many a Forged engine with higher compression than stock 4E!!
my current 4E has higher compression over stock and no problems running Boost.
my arguement was stock 4E on a huge Turbo will yield a narrow powerband
simple
ur quoting this that and the other and people keep bringing the 5e bottom end into this debate with 4E pistons!! its a thread about the 4E not 5E
@Finx im not saying u dont know what ur talking about im just saying im talking from experience in regards to a 4E motor and huge Turbos and im running Motec ECU on all my motors so Tuning has never been an issue for the last 8 years .
and ive run alot of different Turbos on different setups
Great thread

regards

G
 

finx

Member +
all Forged engines have lower compression than stock engines???
well ive built many a Forged engine with higher compression than stock 4E!!
my current 4E has higher compression over stock and no problems running Boost.
my arguement was stock 4E on a huge Turbo will yield a narrow powerband
simple
ur quoting this that and the other and people keep bringing the 5e bottom end into this debate with 4E pistons!! its a thread about the 4E not 5E
@Finx im not saying u dont know what ur talking about im just saying im talking from experience in regards to a 4E motor and huge Turbos and im running Motec ECU on all my motors so Tuning has never been an issue for the last 8 years .
and ive run alot of different Turbos on different setups
Great thread

regards

G


nah wasnt meaning all forged engines have a lower comp ratio, just allot that i have seen and read about and have had detailed build threads and notes or info on around this forum all seem to be in favor of the low comp route. and that the stock 4e would actually prove better in some cases/situations given thus.
ahh i see where you coming from clearer now. your right, a small engine with a huge turbo will yeild a narrow power band. but i dont totally think that it wont be good for any type of driving or motorsport at all. as perviously said, that car had it gotten to the strip (which is had been planed to run at our national meet only a week after the date of it expireing) it would have gained some good times. it was build for two main things. drags, and to see how far a stock engine could be pushed.
the gear ratios (stock c52) it was running in configuration with the launch control anti lagg and flat shifting it would have made for one hell of a strip car. as once you have lined up to the lights, done your burnout and brought the revs up to launch rpm. you wouldnt be looking at dropping out of the power band at all for the duration of the race. power side your looking to be just before the point of which you brake traction for the entire length of the strip to get max potential out of the car. if this means you have to go through 4 of the 5 or all 5 of the gears for max power to be available then so be it. changing gear may be a hassel but you will still get the results.

i chucked the 5e thing in there for comparison as the ones im referring to have also been using stock internals which are proven to handle the jandle, but also because of the extra capacity even how puny the increase is, it helps with widening the powerband and increasing the torque output. your not wrong in saying thats where the small engines will always struggle in comparison to larger capacity engines but there are ways and means around this. i totally see where your coming from thou bud :)
 

hardcoreep

Member +
Whoa, and I thought I was getting screwed over on my post. You people play rough, Kudos to Fatman for taking the high road. I think this would be a bad time to mention that my friend did 320whp on his EP91 using a t3/t4 on a stock engine and C16 race gas. I worked wonders on the dyno, but it blew up every raceday. So I have to agree with Fatman, because I've said it over at my post, you can run as much boost as you want on any engine. The killer is going to be detonation, and on stock motor you're threading the needle, that doesn't mean it can't achieve those numbers.

1: I've run an AFR of 12.0:1 for four months on td04-11b, nothing happened. Engine's fine. The only reason I removed the turbo was because the neck adapter broke. I threw back on the CT9 retuned to 12:1 and still here. As a matter of fact 12:1 is what I personally strive for because it gives the best power figures without risking the car. The first time I saw this the tuner leaned out a car making 155whp to 188whp just by moving the AFR to 12:1. Nothing else. We later turned up the boost a bit to 18psi on a td04-13g and got 212whp. That car lived a long life until domestic issues killed it, ie jealous girlfriend.

2: The quality of the stock headgasket is impeccable. I know a lot of people running them as a matter of fact if you wanna lower the CR most guys here just run two. Again, seen it for myself, 298whp daily driven. Never had a headgasket failure. From my experience ehat makes it fail is high temperatures from overheating. Maybe if you guys stopped using those silly little Civic radiators the headgasket would last longer.

3: I don't however agree on the 4E/5E issue. Having done back to back testing many times in terms of the difference in displacement, the change is rather significant. The 5E is in a different league. Turbochargers that would take forever to spool on a 4E can boost from tick over on a 5E. With the 4E you have to pull more rpm for power than the 5E. Its not just the displacement, the 5E has way higher exhaust velocity than the 4E.
 
Last edited:

GaryGT

Member +
Whoa, and I thought I was getting screwed over on my post. You people play rough, Kudos to Fatman for taking the high road. I think this would be a bad time to mention that my friend did 320whp on his EP91 using a t3/t4 on a stock engine and C16 race gas. I worked wonders on the dyno, but it blew up every raceday. So I have to agree with Fatman, because I've said it over at my post, you can run as much boost as you want on any engine. The killer is going to be detonation, and on stock motor you're threading the needle, that doesn't mean it can't achieve those numbers.

1: I've run an AFR of 12.0:1 for four months on td04-11b, nothing happened. Engine's fine. The only reason I removed the turbo was because the neck adapter broke. I threw back on the CT9 retuned to 12:1 and still here. As a matter of fact 12:1 is what I personally strive for because it gives the best power figures without risking the car. The first time I saw this the tuner leaned out a car making 155whp to 188whp just by moving the AFR to 12:1. Nothing else. We later turned up the boost a bit to 18psi on a td04-13g and got 212whp. That car lived a long life until domestic issues killed it, ie jealous girlfriend.

2: The quality of the stock headgasket is impeccable. I know a lot of people running them as a matter of fact if you wanna lower the CR most guys here just run two. Again, seen it for myself, 298whp daily driven. Never had a headgasket failure. From my experience ehat makes it fail is high temperatures from overheating. Maybe if you guys stopped using those silly little Civic radiators the headgasket would last longer.

3: I don't however agree on the 4E/5E issue. Having done back to back testing many times in terms of the difference in displacement, the change is rather significant. The 5E is in a different league. Turbochargers that would take forever to spool on a 4E can boost from tick over on a 5E. With the 4E you have to pull more rpm for power than the 5E. Its not just the displacement, the 5E has way higher exhaust velocity than the 4E.



Yes mate your rite and no1 has disputed this fact either
the 5E has far better Exhaust Gas Velocity than the 4E
i have been developing a design for a manifold to Run on a 5E engine that will be Revving out past 10000RPM and together with a unique Collector Chamber im hoping to Run a serious Turbo on this setup.
 

rickie

Member +
It's the sheer amount of power difference that astonishes people. With most people in the UK/Ireland putting out between roughly 220bhp - 250ish bhp before forging. Thats a good 130-160bhp of a difference compared to your friends 380bhp. So you can see why some will raise thie eyebrows.

All in all a very good read! I'm quite sure there are a good few highly reputable members on here though that could probably ask some high quality questions on this subject so we could learn even more. Where are you guys? :confused: Would make the thread even better :)
 

Texx

Super Moderator
It is entirely down to tuning. To all those that blew up their motors, what management were you using? How good was your tune?

I'd like to come back to this as I believe it to be rather significant to this discussion.

How many of you that have suffered engine failures have actual data logs listing the ECU's input sensors readings leading right up to the point of engine failure? How have you come to the conclusion that the engine failed due to 'too much boost'? Are you just guessing?

There are so many factors that are relied upon to accurately calculate ignition timing, fuel injector timing and fuel injector duty cycle, if the calculations are wrong particularly during a high load and high engine speed condition, for whatever reason, severe detonation will occur and something is likely to fail and that something is likely to be the headgasket, a piston or a conrod. IMO a bent conrod is more likely to result from the increased cylinder pressure and the hammer like shockwaves caused by severe detonation than it will from increasing the intake charge alone. Detonation is more likely to be the engine killer when increasing turbo boost pressure.

Severe detonation could occur for a number of different reasons i.e. A low battery voltage condition that reduces fuel injector operating speed resulting in insufficient fuel being delivered, the ECU not receiving the WOT position signal from the TPS or even the knock sensor failing to report knock that is actually present resulting in the ECU over advancing the spark.
Take the MAP sensor for example, a wiring fault causing an electrical resistance or air leak causing a difference between the air pressure in the intake manifold plenum and the air pressure seen by the MAP sensor, would most likely result in the ECU receiving an incorrect feedback voltage from the MAP sensor. If the ECU only receives a feedback voltage of 2.5v instead of the intended 5v, then the ECU would deliver a totally incorrect amount of fuel from totally the wrong area of its fuel map. The ECU would also incorrectly calculate engine load and so would provide a totally incorrect amount of spark advance from totally the wrong area of its spark map. The engine would then suffer a situation of insufficient fuel and too much spark advance right when the engine needs more fuel and an earlier spark to be delivered to avoid detonation and stay alive. All this could simply be caused by a small split in a hose or a slightly corroded electrical terminal and probably wouldn’t even flag up a fault code.

Without firm evidence to the cause of an engine failure, I think it's a bit naive to blame it solely on the amount of boost pressure being run. I'd be more inclined to blame it on the calculations the ECU had made (whether due to an error in a multiplier map or incorrect map lookup based on an incorrect input sensor reading) to compensate for that given amount of boost pressure and engine situation leading up to and at the exact moment of engine failure.

Forged internals aren't going to help when you're running lean and detonating all over the show.

I totally agree and I personally would spend my money on some decent well respected engine management before I even though about replacing pistons and rods. Although it needs to be remembered that 100's of hours would have been spent developing the maps for a stock ECU, so no matter how good your tuner is unless they have been afforded a similar amount of time to map your ECU, reliability may always be an issue.

As hardcoreep once said:
The proper tuned one's last long. The one's tuned by idiots break.
 
Last edited:

billybob

Untrusted Seller
There are some very common misconceptions out there about tuning turbo engines. In particular whether improving flow through cylinder head and induction system porting makes any difference to power or whether all you have to do is turn the boost up. The simple answer is that improving flow can be even more important on a turbo engine than a normally aspirated (N/A) one. All engines make power in proportion to the amount of air they can breathe and anything that increases air flow into the cylinders increases power,also along with a good tune that is emu:)
 

Texx

Super Moderator
There are some very common misconceptions out there about tuning turbo engines. In particular whether improving flow through cylinder head and induction system porting makes any difference to power or whether all you have to do is turn the boost up. The simple answer is that improving flow can be even more important on a turbo engine than a normally aspirated (N/A) one. All engines make power in proportion to the amount of air they can breathe and anything that increases air flow into the cylinders increases power,also along with a good tune that is emu:)

You forgot to post the link:

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/Turbo.htm
 

gv1.3

Admin

LMAO - the last time I saw someone exposed like that they were on the front of the news of the world.

great to see this thread going the right way. There is nothing wrong with having a different stance on matters but it benefits no one if you dont back it up. Threads which demonstrate knowledge and experience benefit us all so well done.
 

TurboDave

Member +
There are some very common misconceptions out there about tuning turbo engines. In particular whether improving flow through cylinder head and induction system porting makes any difference to power or whether all you have to do is turn the boost up. The simple answer is that improving flow can be even more important on a turbo engine than a normally aspirated (N/A) one. All engines make power in proportion to the amount of air they can breathe and anything that increases air flow into the cylinders increases power,also along with a good tune that is emu:)


I dont agree with that anyway where ever it has come from, NA's have to suck their air in during the downward stroke of the pistons when a vacuum is created where as turbocharged engines have the air forced in through use of a turbo and the cylinders have a certain suck effect as with an NA.

IMO, increasing the airflow on an NA is far more important than on a turbo engine as long as the turbos intake isnt too bad to start with.
 
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