overheating when going uphill!

[Sheldon]

hi all, what do you think about this?

car is overheating when going uphill... ONLY!

car has

2 weeks old waterpump

5days old toyota coolant

no thermostat (was doing it also with one)

i was thinking it could be an airlock? or rad is full of dirt!?


or worst thing is... headgasket!? but why not doing it on level surface.. ?

any inputs welcome... thank!

 

[Mike D EP82]

weird?? it must over heat pretty quick if its only on a hill unless you climb one continuous hill lol sure the gauge isnt faulty? or is there steam etc? do a coolant pressure test on it. or a garage can stick the exhaust emission probe into the coolant bottle to check if there is exhaust gases escaping into the coolant system indicating head gasket. but id bleed the system again to be sure 1st

 

[Sheldon]

weird?? it must over heat pretty quick if its only on a hill unless you climb one continuous hill lol sure the gauge isnt faulty? or is there steam etc? do a coolant pressure test on it. or a garage can stick the exhaust emission probe into the coolant bottle to check if there is exhaust gases escaping into the coolant system indicating head gasket. but id bleed the system again to be sure 1st

after overhwating i find the coolant bootle more full than usual and then it suckes it back, but im not loosing any coolant and not leaving it enough to steam..

 

[Starlet_Sam]

Did you find this problem when driving back to the starting line at Hal Far ?

Try bleeding the system thoroughly. If not try cleaning out the rad.

 

[gv1.3]

Did you find this problem when driving back to the starting line at Hal Far ?

oh no you didnt....

 

[dac69er]

Did you find this problem when driving back to the starting line at Hal Far ?

Try bleeding the system thoroughly. If not try cleaning out the rad.

if you had any air in the system it would travel to the highest point. if the hill is reasonably steep then the highest point would probably be the rad.

would definitely clean the rad, or replace if you suspect it to be shit, then bleed the system.

how was the system bled before?

 

[Starlet_Sam]

oh no you didnt....

There's something inside me that I can't suppress.

 

[Texx]

Driving up a hill would put more load on the engine which will generate more heat for the cooling system to deal with.

Is the rad fan kicking in?
Have you tried another rad cap?
Are sure the cooling system isn't leaking anywhere?
I take it your not loosing coolant?

As suggested, try and flush the rad out with a hose pipe. Take both the top and bottom rad hoses off, stick the hose pipe in the top of the radiator and leave it running for a while and see if any crap comes out the bottom.

 

[weakboy2]

I would say its the headgasket mate.

 

[Sheldon]

I would say its the headgasket mate.

and why you think so?

there could be crap in the rad as once i put i some chemical to clean the system and on the instructions it said 15 mins and bleed the system.. i left it like 2/3 days cos i forgot lol and it was full of sludge and everything. this was like a year ago...

 

[Sheldon]

after looking at some posts again...

why would it overheat if there is a problem with the rad cap?

if its an airlock... would putting the car in the garage ramp with the front in the highest point and turn the car on while the rad cap is off, will get rid of the air?

 

[nexia201]

and why you think so?

there could be crap in the rad as once i put i some chemical to clean the system and on the instructions it said 15 mins and bleed the system.. i left it like 2/3 days cos i forgot lol and it was full of sludge and everything. this was like a year ago...

so its still overheating?

 

[Sheldon]

so its still overheating?

yep... done at mellieha.

 

[southwalesgt]

The coolant systems self bleeding so I cant see that being the issue. Is the system pressurised? i.e continuous bubbles coming from top of rad with cap off?

I'd check rad cap as seals can go and lose pressure that way.

Also check thermostat housing as these are an area that gas may build up and be unbled from usual bleeding technique. Think again its the seals that go letting in air. (you mentioned taking thermo in/out so maybe the seals worn)

Get it hydrocarbon 'sniff' tested at local garage and you will soon find out if its the head gasket. The test should read 0, when my gasket went it read 350 Only takes a few minutes and you'll know its something major then

 

[Sheldon]

The coolant systems self bleeding so I cant see that being the issue. Is the system pressurised? i.e continuous bubbles coming from top of rad with cap off?

I'd check rad cap as seals can go and lose pressure that way.

Also check thermostat housing as these are an area that gas may build up and be unbled from usual bleeding technique. Think again its the seals that go letting in air. (you mentioned taking thermo in/out so maybe the seals worn)

Get it hydrocarbon 'sniff' tested at local garage and you will soon find out if its the head gasket. The test should read 0, when my gasket went it read 350 Only takes a few minutes and you'll know its something major then

first time i left it idling without the rad cap there was many small bubles coming out and then coolant started to go out ..

 

[southwalesgt]

Sounds like its pressurising coolant system. Rad cap off, with engine running and continuous bubbles in cap hole. Are your heaters blowing warm?

Mine was the same, could drive it fine off boost, then put your foot down or make the engine work harder and the temp gauge would fly up! Leave it 5 mins and it would settle back down.

The head gasket had gone between water jacket and cylinder, resulting in overheating. Seems to be very, very common on the 4efte engines.

Get it sniff tested and compression tested, compression for cylinders ideally should be between 160-175 depending on how strong/worn the engine is.

 

[Sheldon]

Sounds like its pressurising coolant system. Rad cap off, with engine running and continuous bubbles in cap hole. Are your heaters blowing warm?

Mine was the same, could drive it fine off boost, then put your foot down or make the engine work harder and the temp gauge would fly up! Leave it 5 mins and it would settle back down.

The head gasket had gone between water jacket and cylinder, resulting in overheating. Seems to be very, very common on the 4efte engines.

Get it sniff tested and compression tested, compression for cylinders ideally should be between 160-175 depending on how strong/worn the engine is.

the funny thing is i can boost it alldaylong and temp will be fine until im going uphill! lol

last time i check compresion it was like 12 bar on all.. thats 174psi so i have an idea of how it was.

heaters are not blowing warm as they used to!

dunno if anyone over here uses sniff tests.

 

[southwalesgt]

A sniff test is basically the same as when they do a Co2 test for exhaust emissions. But instead of shoving it up backbox, you hover it over the rad cap hole.

Any local MOT garage will have the equipment to do this test. Its the easiset, cheapest way of knowing whether there is a break in gasket.

Your compression figure sounds very healthy, but if the heads gone recently it will be down on a cylinder now.

When my head gasket went my blowers wouldnt blow warm, but this could be something else

 

[Sheldon]

A sniff test is basically the same as when they do a Co2 test for exhaust emissions. But instead of shoving it up backbox, you hover it over the rad cap hole.

Any local MOT garage will have the equipment to do this test. Its the easiset, cheapest way of knowing whether there is a break in gasket.

Your compression figure sounds very healthy, but if the heads gone recently it will be down on a cylinder now.

When my head gasket went my blowers wouldnt blow warm, but this could be something else

ic cheers. if thats so its just a new headgasket and head bolts then and all should be fine

 

[southwalesgt]

yeh theoretically, however its best to buy as much as you can, saves you having to do it again if they go aswell.

I got:

Full head gasket set from main dealer, thats all gaskets on head like manifold, inlet, rocker cover, head etc... £120 ish
New head bolts £ Couple quid each
Thermostat £ Couple quid
Water pump (you have a new one so thats fine)
Oil + oil filter £25

I also bought a new radiator as it was a bit old skool (places wanted £140 for a GT one, I bought the 1.3 N/A radiator which was identical to my GT one for £60! Thats not main dealer though. Came with new rad cap too.)