The Demon NUT or bolt

C

c3dpo

Member +
What was your worst or 1st and 2nd worst bolt issues, and how did you carmly resolve it??????


Me.

1. First time doing axle 30mm beast, twatted my self for the effort. - Resolved by using a longer bar

2. This fucking nut on the rear caliper!!!!! Cos its loose I cant get any traction on it, I've tried spider man attaching to it, and trapping it in places but it just wont budge, im smoking and thinking how to tackle this on :)

Lokk fwd to some of yours
 
I

_iforget_glanza

Untrusted Seller
1.the wishbone clamp on the passenger side closest to the rear.was screwing it in and the place that it screws into has come loose inside the body.cant take it out now either as it just turns freely.still trying to figure this one out:Lany ideas on how to resolve this?:p
2.the 3 bolts that join the balljoint to the wishbone.was down takin the wishbone off a mans car earlier and thought they wer welded they wer that tight:L lol
 
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davehart

davehart

Member +
I think the fuel filter bolts take the piss :)

Other than those shitcunts its the fucking alternator bastard bolt rounding off to fuck.

(I've implemented the offending language used while doing the tasks above if you see :) )

Still, vice grips, one very badly bruised arm when the bugger breaks loose and a nice cuppa and its job done :)
 
ChrisStarletGT

ChrisStarletGT

Member +
the wishbone clamps use captive nuts welded in the body dont know if it possible to get to the top of from inside the car near welding back secure then u can tight your bolt up
 
C

chrisinflight

Fresh Recruit
Nuts about Bolts

When I got the EP I changed all filters, cambelt etc. on a stock GT and I struggled with all of them! I did the fuel filter first and thought it`s got to get easier- was I wrong! I bought a stumpy spanner set and a deep socket set but I still lose skin! Whenever I open the bonnet to friends I always get "it`s pretty tight in there". Okay, I did own a hilux before the GT so maybe I`m used to loads of space.
cheers,
chris
 
R

rongkeys

Lifer
Nuts an bolts usually not a problem if you've the right tools, amazing what a hot spanner will free off.
Captive nuts are a pain tho when they come loose.
 
I

_iforget_glanza

Untrusted Seller
the wishbone clamps use captive nuts welded in the body dont know if it possible to get to the top of from inside the car near welding back secure then u can tight your bolt up
Click to expand...

yea i got it done 2day:) got a drinder to the passenger footwell :L bent it back and the bolts had come loose:)bent back up and carpet back down:)job done:)
 
Hazzagray

Hazzagray

Member +
Fuel filters are bastards. still havent got it off yet!

Oh and my track rod end bolt which attaches to the knuckle is just freely spinning now... any ideas on how to get it off?
 
Reeco

Reeco

Member +
using a tourque wrench on the bolts for the cam shims, then fidning out the old bolts wernt quite up to the task and snapping them off in the head (just finished putting a headgasket on)

soloution: drilling it out with cloths around it and a huge magnet, then tapping a tiny torqx bit into the new hole and twisting it out.

then did the same with the one next to it, after repeating the process again decided to turn the torque wrench down XD
 
dac69er

dac69er

Super Moderator
ChrisStarletGT said:
the wishbone clamps use captive nuts welded in the body dont know if it possible to get to the top of from inside the car near welding back secure then u can tight your bolt up
Click to expand...

the way i did it was to drill 2 small holes either side of the hole where the captive nut is. weld the nut to the body that way. managed to get the bolt out then re-weld round the hole and run a tap through. fill the holes you made earier with weld and buff flat with a grinder. stick a bit of paint on it and its job done
 
C

c3dpo

Member +
ste-glanza said:
the bolt directly over the antiroll bar holding on the gearbox mount
Click to expand...

Yeah we found this new one to the list, also I didnt think they use 12mm spanners on jap cars, as I swear I found one unless the rust made it a 13mm

llol, keep em coming guys, they are going on my to be wary or broken nose list :)
 
Rob H

Rob H

Member +
I fined a good set of 6 point sockets and spanners is all ways the way to go! most of mine are snap-on but I also have some halfords pro stuff too. I never use 12 point stuff on things I know will cause me problems most of the time I only use 6 point. all my open end spanners are snap-on flank drive+ and there aint much they dont shift! I do a lot of things like manifold bolts at work that do get tight! the best way to deal with things like this is TAKE YOUR TIME DONT JUST TRY AND WINED THEM OUT!! just keep working the back and forth back and forth and so on!! as soon as you can get some oil on em cover em in the suff and then leave em to soak while you have a cupa! then keep working them if you just try and wined em out they will snap!! most bolts on the starlets I treat the same way especially the 6mm captive bolts into the wheel arches and stuff! when I was younger and working on my old land rovers my dad would play hell up if I broke anything off!! you soon learn the hard way!

Removing broken bolts/studs is always good fun this is some thing I am very good at well I must be I get every one foook ups to sort out at work!
If you snap something putting it together ie over tighten it 9 times out of ten it will come out easy if you can get hold of it normally they will screw out if not a stud extractor will shift it. I use left hand thread drill bits for stuff like this as most of the time they will shift it on there own!

removing bolts/studs snapped due to been seized in. leave the stud extractors in the box! you will break them and screw the job proper! once you break one in the bolt you wont drill that! I never use tapered extractors too why would you put something tapered into a parallel hole?? this can be a disaster on its own! I use straight extractors there so much better if I use em at all!! weld a nut on! it works so much better the heat frees stuff off as you weld and you have something good to get hold of. get the amps cranked up and weld away this is the method I use 98% of the time when a welder is available. if not I drill the hole lot out and retap the threads into the hole.

seized nuts. split em off with a chisel or grinder if they will take it use some heat normally a good crack with a chisel will free them off.

removing ball joint nuts if the ball joint starts to spin before the nut comes off put a jack under the ball joint and push it back into the hole as hard as you can most of the time this will work if not split it off!


last bit!! ALWAYS CLEAN STUFF UP BEST YOU CAN BEFOR YOU START!! A GOOD WIRE BRUSH AND SOME PENETRATING OIL GOES A LONG WAY! IF YOU CAN RUN A TAP DOWN THE THREADS TO CLEAN THEM BEFOR REMOVING NUTS AND MORE OIL!!

this is a subject I don't have a problem with on dinky toys like the starlet but I have smashed my front teeth more than once removing head bolts from truck engines and piled hands into the floor torquing truck hub nuts up to a 1000nm.

I think this is my longest post ever lol!!
 
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