top end rattle?

Reeco

Reeco

Member +
Noticed a top end rattle cxoming from my car today, this is the 2nd proper run its had since the headgasket change although i did notice it before the head gasket went, on a bit of investigation i realised this was the problem (or at least think so) http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?41558-got-a-rattly-top-end-* mainly due to the fact the ape who bodged the headgasket before must have not bothered to put the service bolt through, i assumed they wernt supposed to be lined up so just cable tied them last time. anyway i wound it back so the service whole anbd the one closest to it on the other gear lined up but after putting everything back together theres still a rattle, how far do you have to wind the gears back as there about 3 wholes in it, does it need to line up with the 2nd or last one? and will it be safe to drive as it is right now? thanks guys
 
dac69er

dac69er

Super Moderator
you just need to turn it back so it is under some tension. i cant remember off the top of my head, but i think it was just the first hole.

what are your valve clearances like? if they are out it can make the top end sound clattery
 
Reeco

Reeco

Member +
okay thanks mate , umm im not sure how can you check? though to be honest i dont think its related to that purley because when we did wind it back to the other hole it did make a slight difference. if the valve clearence was dodgey though would it be safe to drive?
thanks rep added :)
 
dac69er

dac69er

Super Moderator
yes and no. if they are too tight then it will wear the cam lobes quickly and the valves may not shut fully. if they are too loose then the valves wont open fully.
 
350ep70gr

350ep70gr

Member +
Oil brand for sure can play a huge role to cylinder head noise.But in your case if you are sure cams are tensioned corectly i would check the valve clearence first and lifter to wall clearence but this isnt something easy to do at home as it envolves lot of accurate mesurments with the correct tools.
I assume you had everything marked and put it in from the place you took it out. For example lifter and shim for intake valve 1 at cylinder 1 is still there and not at valve 2 of cylinder 3 as this plays a huge rolle aswell.
To the question if you can run with wrong adjusted valves ....i d say no.Cause you can face anything from low performance till COMPLETLE DESTROY the engine.Depends how wrong adjusted it is and how far you push your engine. Valve clearence exist for a reason and you should follow the specification without cutting turns.

Chris
 
S

Skalabala

Member +
350ep70gr said:
Oil brand for sure can play a huge role to cylinder head noise.But in your case if you are sure cams are tensioned corectly i would check the valve clearence first and lifter to wall clearence but this isnt something easy to do at home as it envolves lot of accurate mesurments with the correct tools.
I assume you had everything marked and put it in from the place you took it out. For example lifter and shim for intake valve 1 at cylinder 1 is still there and not at valve 2 of cylinder 3 as this plays a huge rolle aswell.
To the question if you can run with wrong adjusted valves ....i d say no.Cause you can face anything from low performance till COMPLETLE DESTROY the engine.Depends how wrong adjusted it is and how far you push your engine. Valve clearence exist for a reason and you should follow the specification without cutting turns.

Chris
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Some rep for you :)
 
Reeco

Reeco

Member +
cheers guys. well like i said im not sure how far you have to turn the tensioner back? is it definatley the hole closest or do you have to go further? im pretty sure its not valve clearence purley because its only happening between 2.5k and 3k revs...which was what originaly pointed me towards the cam tenison. it definatley has the correct oil in but it isnt expensive oil. we definatley put all the valves back where they came out of too...any other suggestions ? rep added for all :)
 
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