Quite a few things to consider on this topic
One - where is the power band or where is it going to be
Two - prime use of the vehicle. If in motorsport what type of racing you intend to do will dictate somewhat which one you use to maximize results.
A couple of very simplistic ideas as to the...
Also just an update for those who may be interested,
Took the car again last Friday night. Ran a 13.0@105mph with a 2.0 60ft without the aid of launch control or anti lagg.
The Track was quite slippery, the car has the potential to go faster in this guise but that will be the last meeting for...
Thanks for the feedback :)
Not to sure exactly what temperature they need to be. I usually just hold the car in second with the hand brake on until the tyres start to bite then release the brake and let it roll forwards.
If you hang on too long thats when you get driveline breakages. CV's...
Thanks for the responses guys.
Im using an un-skimmed head
Aim is for 9.0:1 compression ratio. Which should equate to 43.5CC chambers if using a base of 39CC with a stock 1mm head gasket (crushed thickness) which seems to be the general starting point.
Ryan
Looking into doing some combustion chamber work on the 5EFHTE. (5efhe base)
So far i have a listing of 39 CC, can anyone who has experiance doing head work on these engines confirm the facotry combustion chamaber CC as thus?
I will be taking preliminary tests of the CC of each chamber on my...
Those saying 1.2mm and 1.0mm crushed are correct.
Compression ratio and cylinder pressures are two different things.
your compression ratio is fairly straight forward to calculate using the correct formula and your engines specs.
Your cylinder pressure (which is measured in psi) calculated...
cheers Kon
Going to attempt to take the car out again this coming Friday night if i get time during the week to change a few things and check everything over just to have one more stab at getting a quicker ET out of the set up as is before putting a Hybrid turbo (that has been gathering...
Cheers guys
Its been a good hard few hard years in the making but we got there. Big thanks to Fatman for his help on the late nights before racing making last min mods in the chase for thousandths of a second.
Watch this space for more to come in the near future :cool:
Just saw this thread.
Cheers guys, its been a long time in the making.
Thanks to Fatman for all the support during the many builds.
Racing again very soon, some changes have been and are in the process of being finished so watch this space.
Haha i dont think it will get a bigger...
Good to see the NZ made engine management system sticker on the left hand rear window :)
nice time too. gongrats. some vids would be cool if possible
cheers
Personally i would opt for the Toyo r888'proved very good on track and at drags. good longevity in both disciplines as well providing your not an animal on the burnouts at drags.
Dropped over a second off lap times on the local track with them and 60ft times at Drags were very very close to...
that's impressive. Watching those things in person is mind blowing. video doesn't quite give it justice
i think some of you would get a fright if you saw the track the 5sec nitro funny cars race on over here, no way near that level of surface. its hair raising
again, well done mate. its not a fun job when that happends
had this before myself a few times, due to people using an alen key to torque up or attempt to undo the bolts instead of using the proper 12 point key
agreed on pub talk comment.
depends on so many variables its very very hard to state exactly what time it would do. driver and conditions all come into play
best acceleration test is at the drag strip however
calculated off the drag time slips (i did over 60 passes last season) and confirmed...
Basically what kon and the others have said about adjusting the pedal/master pin is spot on.
And chris was touching on the issue in brief correctly as well
I have run into a few case's over the years where cars and semi trucks with full custom made clutch kits and off the shelf ones where even...
Standard size for most vacuum applications on an E series Toyota engine (ie starlet fwd engine) is 5mm. however some sensors and vacuum operated actuators such as Map Sensor and Fuel Pressure Regulator run 3mm hose's.
difference in hose internal diameters wont have bugger all effect negatively...