2E FE build

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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
I wanted first a 5EFE in the EP71. With dismantling the bought engine discovered the damage on the crank, bearings and 1 rod, 1 journal completely melted, so with that knowledge did not want to regrind the 5E crank. I was screwed with that engine. Then i putted the 5e head just for one moment aside a 2E head a have lying around, and there it all started. I am not going the easy route i know :D
But i own the very first 2E-FE in the world :p :rockon:
 
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Skalabala

Member +
toyonut buddy, I am almost sure you are not the first.
There must have been a jamacan smoking some good stuff and built one :D :p
 
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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
:haha: Smoking Jamaicans dont show their stuff on i-net

Used the 2EE gasket as moulding for HG, added only 1 extra waterhole pass through on cil 4. 2EE and 4EFE share the same HG design
 
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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
hks.jpg


Got an skool HKS powerfilter. Just painted it.
Busy with radiator mounting, fuel pump issues (need a extra inline FP) and other problems to solve.
 
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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
Did today a first drive with it. Had to be careful engine must break in first. But when accelarating from 2000 revs, 2nd gear, the front weels started to spin and torque steering. Incredible smooth running engine it is now. Allmost silent when warm an at idle. (750 revs)
 
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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
No the car has all suspension mods allready, koni shocks and so on.

But... discovered a problem today; there is air bubling in the coolant, damn. Not much but still. We will retorquing the head, if its still bubling another headgasket has to go on.
 
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Skalabala

Member +
toyonut said:
No the car has all suspension mods allready, koni shocks and so on.

But... discovered a problem today; there is air bubling in the coolant, damn. Not much but still. We will retorquing the head, if its still bubling another headgasket has to go on.
Click to expand...

That is bad about the gasket :(
If you pull it of then do some detailed inspection.
And I would recommend you to O-ring the block because of the gasket you are using.
Or use copper spray, I have been using it on warped head/blocks and it works great!
 
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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
Thanks for tips. Used hylomar, and it is good stuff: because the head was virtually air tight, with one or more completely loose headbolts!!! Damn. Tried to retorque the bolts but with the 3rd bolt discovered the problem.

Anyone here: what are the Headbolts lenghts ? The front are 100mm and the back ones 85mm, but they sat only a few mm in the block and ripped the thread out. Need longer bolts on the rear, 10 of 100 mm, hole is deep enough after measuring. Strange.... used original 5E bolts
 
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Skalabala

Member +
are you 100% sure that all the bolts went to the right places?
maybe drill and tap for 4AGE?
some bad luck you had there :(
 
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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
Yes, 85 rear and 100 front. It went about 8mm in the block, and with first assembling had not the feeling the bolts where too short. But threaded holes are deep enough for 100mm rear so will do that. Head must go off and cleaned and so on, maybe new HG. (have another one in copper)
 
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toyonut

Fresh Recruit
Discovered they are not to short, but the copper HG and expanding of head on heating pulled the thread out of the block from 1 bolthole. The short rear bolts have a shorter flexing effect and thus pulled out the thread. Fortunately the bolthole in block wich is very deep, is pulled out. Will mount 10 long bolts, and 3 of the 5 rear bolts have to be shortened 5mm. Shall anneal the HG and it can put together again. ;)

Had anyone here ever used a steel or copper HG with original headbolts ?
 
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