yeah, same here,,,we are always learning whether we want to or notI honestly didn't realise until now that the EP91 used the earlier sensor setup. Thought they were all triangles.
It's good to know every day is a school day!
I think I ordered the right one. I will receive it on Monday finally try the sensor. I will try if the wiring is working well tomorrow. ThqnksEarly version (like yours)
View attachment 7057
Later version (fancy three pin triangle)
View attachment 7056
I did the same. The only problem is that I have error 42 and I don’t know how to solve it. I did the bridge on the Big connector for the automatic gearbox. What do you suggest?yeah, that part number cross references with my car (as stated before it was originally an AT EP91 I converted to manual, but kept the AT ecu).
Thank you very much. So this is probably the reason why the guy who swapped automatic with manual transmission didn’t have any check engine light errors. Because it was between two starlet cars. In my case we are talking about two generations that passed each other at least seven years. I really have to try to make this work and understand why the car doesn’t start. I’ve changed the water temp signal sensor and checked if the wires or interrupt but they are not. So it’s a mystery. It’s probably might be a mechanic issue. My brother thinks it might be one of the injectors leaking that don’t keep the fuel in place. I try to unplug the fuel rail return before turning the car on in the morning and there was no fuel coming out. As the car fuel pump starts when cranking then what keeps the fuel and pressure? it might be a mechanical issue. We need to find someone who had a similar problem. I also need to figure out why the car smokes blue. I need to take the spark plugs out and see if there is oil and probably it will be caused by the valve sealing rubbers or hopefully not the piston lower it rings that keep the oil in place. I was hoping it was a turbo problem that would have cost me less money. Let me know what you think. Thank youI'd agree, you need to make sure the ECU is seeing the correct vehicle speed signal from the cluster otherwise it'll throw a 42 fault code.
Even swapping from UK-spec EP91 to Glanza clocks will cause issues (see attachment).
Where can I find the aclrolla daahboard pinout to compare it with the ep91?I'd agree, you need to make sure the ECU is seeing the correct vehicle speed signal from the cluster otherwise it'll throw a 42 fault code.
Even swapping from UK-spec EP91 to Glanza clocks will cause issues (see attachment).
What about the 22 error code? Apparently the sensor is connected directly to the ECU but it gives the error.42 fault code
I had a quick look and I can't find it online. Maybe try a Corolla owners club? (I genuinely haven't a clue where I got this Glanza comparison from - just found it on this computers hard-drive).Where can I find the aclrolla daahboard pinout to compare it with the ep91?
Now we're getting somewhere, so if the ECU is seeing the signal from the sensor perhaps the sensor isn't reading correctly. What state is the connector in? What usually happens is that the O-ring on the distributor hardens up and allows engine oil to contaminate the connection. This makes the wiring brittle and disrupts things.What about the 22 error code? Apparently the sensor is connected directly to the ECU but it gives the error.
It's pretty easy to spot a leaking injector, all that excessive fuel will wash the piston clean and you will get a strong smell of fuel from the oil. Remove the sparkplugs and inspect with a borescope (less than a tenner on ebay).it might be one of the injectors leaking that don’t keep the fuel in place. I try to unplug the fuel rail return before turning the car on in the morning and there was no fuel coming out. As the car fuel pump starts when cranking then what keeps the fuel and pressure? it might be a mechanical issue. We need to find someone who had a similar problem. I also need to figure out why the car smokes blue. I need to take the spark plugs out and see if there is oil and probably it will be caused by the valve sealing rubbers or hopefully not the piston lower it rings that keep the oil in place. I was hoping it was a turbo problem that would have cost me less money. Let me know what you think. Thank you
You know what? I actually noticed oil when I was managing the connector to change it with the new one. I found out that there was oil and I thought it was leaking from the head gasket. In fact it might be what you just said that the oil comes out from the distributor. I cleaned up the connector with a special product for connectors and tested it but it doesn’t seem to do his job for some reason. So what is it I should do? Get the distributor out?I had a quick look and I can't find it online. Maybe try a Corolla owners club? (I genuinely haven't a clue where I got this Glanza comparison from - just found it on this computers hard-drive).
Now we're getting somewhere, so if the ECU is seeing the signal from the sensor perhaps the sensor isn't reading correctly. What state is the connector in? What usually happens is that the O-ring on the distributor hardens up and allows engine oil to contaminate the connection. This makes the wiring brittle and disrupts things.