I’m glad to tell you that I solved the problem. Not only the water temp sensor connection which we fixed by connecting the small sensor (single yellow wire) by himself to the cluster and leaving the gleen/black wire (from the 2 wire water temp connector) but we also solved the check engine light dilemma. It disappeared after fixing the wires. I will need to change the water temp to pin connector because it’s destroyed. We had to change the wire that wouldn’t stay properly in the Corolla ii2 connector. So the car starts properly and there is no recovery mode anymore. No error whatsoever that means no 22 and 42 in the diagnostics. I will drive it a few days and see how it behaves. I already felt it had more power in the low RPM. Eventually the air to fuel retail will be more precise as the ECU will work as it should. Next phase is to fix the whole wire block and get the ECU properly in please. Then the next step will be the new intercooler and pipes. I will go see the tuner next week to hear his opinion about the oil problem and eventually I will have to invest €500 to get the valve gaskets replaced. I still need to check the turbo and see if there is a oil leak. I have to change the distributor gasket that leaks.
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it seems you have cut the bonnet and used some mesh where the intercooler is? do you have some kind of "scoop" or external air guide/feed to the intercooler?
i was wondering if this current set up will cause the engine to see higher than normal air intake temps while driving, if there is no constant air flow over the intercooler...possibly resulting in some knock and ecu retard timing, essentially reducing performance?? this is just a side thought
the mesh would help with letting hot engine air out when you stop and possibly while driving...but i'm talking about cooler air reaching the TMIC while driving.
i suppose the FMIC set up in the future will cure these issues, but you still have to deal with the present as well