anit-lift kits
- Thread starter Paddy
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Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Yeah excellent mods and we sell if you need, in my eyes one of the cheapest most effective mods money can buy for the Starlets otherwise they have a really bad tendency to boat up and down especially as they only have three engine mounts..
T
T
the plates are just caster adjustment, nothing to do with anti-lift
thats why the whiteline kit is called an anti-lift/caster kit
starbogt
Member +
the plates are just caster adjustment, nothing to do with anti-lift
thats why the whiteline kit is called an anti-lift/caster kit
Don't suppose you could explain more ! as the only difference is a poly bush as far as I'm aware you got a pic of the anti-lift/caster kit!
Anyhow the plates help
WallaceGlanza
Member +
Jezza is right. The plates give you more castor. The PU bushing in the Whiteline kit is the anti lift part
Erm I think its the other way round actually, thats why they are called anti lift plates.
The whiteline bushes have an offset hole which gives the added castor angle.
starbogt
Member +
this is what I thought. Not much info on the site about it either which throws people off. Lets put it this way my car doesn't lift the front knowhere near like it did under acceleration thus the plates created less lift! meaning more grip to work out of corners but I'm yet to give it a better test in the dry.
Erm I think its the other way round actually, thats why they are called anti lift plates.
The whiteline bushes have an offset hole which gives the added castor angle.
caster is the angle of the strut in the forward/back direction of the car....moving the lower arm side to side wont change that angle, moving the back of the control arm up n down will.
the whiteline bush is an offset bush.
if you can show me how moving the back of the control arm down does something other than change the caster, im happy to be proven wrong!
always keen to learn
starbogt
Member +
Plates are easy with 2 axle stands but I've hear'd the bush can be a right bitch to get old one off.
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
The thicker plates effect the castor, the complete package with plates and a urethane bush will help to reduce the boating effect which Starlets are notorious for, a pretty simply idea in all honesty but very effective especially if you are running over stock power.
If you remove the lower arm it's fairly easy to get the old bushes off otherwise you will need a hydraulic press or a blow torch which isn't advisable. For the record they are £55.50, we are waiting for new stock but hoping this week and we will get some more on eBay.
Thanks,
Toby
If you remove the lower arm it's fairly easy to get the old bushes off otherwise you will need a hydraulic press or a blow torch which isn't advisable. For the record they are £55.50, we are waiting for new stock but hoping this week and we will get some more on eBay.
Thanks,
Toby
Adam_Glanza
Member +
if you open your eyes in his last post he said 55 quid lol
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Handbags at dawn
No that's for the full kit Sean
T
No that's for the full kit Sean
T
Adam_Glanza
Member +
lol sorry i didnt mean it to sound assy,
just thought it was a bit of a silly question
just thought it was a bit of a silly question
I Hope this clears castor up for some people!!! It has for me!!!
Camber, Toe & Castor - the difference
Most people hear these words but rarely have the opportunity to understand what they mean and do.
TOE
This is the amount that the wheels are pointed in or out EG often called "total toe in or out". On rear independant suspension cars this is also adjustable, Subaru, Daihatsu etc. NOT live axle cars though. Fords, Holdens etc. Often measured in mm this little change makes huge differences in handling. As a car moves forward the suspension often moves back reducing toe in, so cars are often set with 1 - 3 mm toe IN. If the car has toe out it often tends to wander on the road more.
On all our rally cars we run about 1 - 2 mm on the front and BACK.
Rear is less important as it tends to be less likely to be affected by knocks, pot holes and kerbs. BUT it is important to be correct
CAMBER
Think of the angle of most roads, look along it and it slopes to the side to make the water drain or is banked on fast freeway corners. This is camber, the angle your wheel sits in relation to vertical when pointed ahead and you look straight at the car from front or rear. Measured in degrees, most common road cars have 0 - .5 degree std. some more. Too much NEGATIVE camber will wear out tyres on the inside. POSITIVE wears out the outside. Look at really old cars they often have POSITIVE camber. (I do not know why).
The correct amount varies depending on CASTOR, (see follows) and how you drive your car. If you have little castor and you love driving fast through corners then you need more NEGATIVE camber, if you do heaps of freeway driving then less is better.
THE REASON? When you turn a corner the outside tyre tends to roll under the rim, causing it to wear on its outer edge. By laying it on its side you reduce this effect. Too much and it will wear on the inside, too little and wear on the outside.
NOTE this is often used to stop wide tyres rubbing on wheel arches or suspension points, this case tyres wear is not a focus! REMEMBER too much neg camber and you will lose traction in straight ahead driving as the tyre is not flat on the road.
CASTOR
This is the best of both! BUT is often not adjustable on modern cars.
Camber stays the same if the pivot (vertically) of the car suspension is zero. EG if you turn the wheel about its axis (steer not spin) it stays the same. BUT if the axis is at an angle (for and aft) then the more you steer the car, the more camber you get!
Its hard to relate, but if you imagine looking at the LHS of the cars wheel, with front to your left, if you grabbed the top of the axis and moved it back (to horizontal) with the wheel position staying still then this is castor, then imagine, if you turned the wheel to the right 90 degrees then the wheel will lay flat, this is obviously an extreme example but best explained.
SO, the more castor the more the wheel will increase negative camber the more you turn the wheel. BUT too much castor and the car will want to wander as it has less tendency to want to point straight ahead.
Camber, Toe & Castor - the difference
Most people hear these words but rarely have the opportunity to understand what they mean and do.
TOE
This is the amount that the wheels are pointed in or out EG often called "total toe in or out". On rear independant suspension cars this is also adjustable, Subaru, Daihatsu etc. NOT live axle cars though. Fords, Holdens etc. Often measured in mm this little change makes huge differences in handling. As a car moves forward the suspension often moves back reducing toe in, so cars are often set with 1 - 3 mm toe IN. If the car has toe out it often tends to wander on the road more.
On all our rally cars we run about 1 - 2 mm on the front and BACK.
Rear is less important as it tends to be less likely to be affected by knocks, pot holes and kerbs. BUT it is important to be correct
CAMBER
Think of the angle of most roads, look along it and it slopes to the side to make the water drain or is banked on fast freeway corners. This is camber, the angle your wheel sits in relation to vertical when pointed ahead and you look straight at the car from front or rear. Measured in degrees, most common road cars have 0 - .5 degree std. some more. Too much NEGATIVE camber will wear out tyres on the inside. POSITIVE wears out the outside. Look at really old cars they often have POSITIVE camber. (I do not know why).
The correct amount varies depending on CASTOR, (see follows) and how you drive your car. If you have little castor and you love driving fast through corners then you need more NEGATIVE camber, if you do heaps of freeway driving then less is better.
THE REASON? When you turn a corner the outside tyre tends to roll under the rim, causing it to wear on its outer edge. By laying it on its side you reduce this effect. Too much and it will wear on the inside, too little and wear on the outside.
NOTE this is often used to stop wide tyres rubbing on wheel arches or suspension points, this case tyres wear is not a focus! REMEMBER too much neg camber and you will lose traction in straight ahead driving as the tyre is not flat on the road.
CASTOR
This is the best of both! BUT is often not adjustable on modern cars.
Camber stays the same if the pivot (vertically) of the car suspension is zero. EG if you turn the wheel about its axis (steer not spin) it stays the same. BUT if the axis is at an angle (for and aft) then the more you steer the car, the more camber you get!
Its hard to relate, but if you imagine looking at the LHS of the cars wheel, with front to your left, if you grabbed the top of the axis and moved it back (to horizontal) with the wheel position staying still then this is castor, then imagine, if you turned the wheel to the right 90 degrees then the wheel will lay flat, this is obviously an extreme example but best explained.
SO, the more castor the more the wheel will increase negative camber the more you turn the wheel. BUT too much castor and the car will want to wander as it has less tendency to want to point straight ahead.
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