Mike D EP82
Member +
are you sure that the clutch is bolted firmly to the flywheel? torqued correctly? i had a problem with a van where this happened and it turned out the clutch wasnt firmly against the flywheel and the dowels
cluch problem
- Thread starter gedis
- Start date
HYBRID
Super Moderator <a href="http://www.toyotagtturbo.
if th crank was bent the engine wouldnt last 5 revs...
as for your problem, its a simple answer we had the same problem with the mazda os giken twin plate... did u install the little extension rod on the slave cylinder? coz without it the clutch wont dis-engage propperly & will slip, as the gap is to short sing the clutch is much wider..
ur problem most prob is as above, however have u checked if ur master cylinder (internally) is not scratched? if anything as weeJohn said its got to do with the release bearing or like i said above with the push-pin on the slave cylinder
kon
HYBRID
Super Moderator <a href="http://www.toyotagtturbo.
thats not gud. with the twin plate it should feel very very stiff... me thinks u could have air in there... or as above in my other post ..
dave123456789
Member +
my clutch engages after about 1cm of travel from the bottom of the pedal and i thought that was normal? how do i set it so it engages on that last few cm of travel?
i'm thinkink crank could be bent at the very end where the flywheel mounts,
@hybrid i changet two brand new cluches(including presure plate, disc, flywheel) twin plate is the third one so i think its aint the cluch also both cyliners were changed couple of times braided line to conect the cylinders was made up, changed fork couple of times, gearbox was changed 3 times now, also checked thrust bearing, the slave cylinder comes out exact lenght as on my friends glanza, there's burn marks on the first flywheel that the first paddle cluch disc that got destroyed(trd padle) same flywheel got instaled on my buddys car and cluch works no problem, then i fited new(standart flywheel) new padle disc new presure plate(90% uprated) disc blew to peices in it destroing gearbox casing, then i decidet to go for twin plate, and its starting to ratle again i'd say one of the disc's gone already.
the thing is. it is perfect for about 400-500 miles and then starts to ratle and disc goes, before it goes clutch pedle stays firm but barely engages the clutch at very end of the pedle
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME
ITS WRECKING MY HEAD
@hybrid i changet two brand new cluches(including presure plate, disc, flywheel) twin plate is the third one so i think its aint the cluch also both cyliners were changed couple of times braided line to conect the cylinders was made up, changed fork couple of times, gearbox was changed 3 times now, also checked thrust bearing, the slave cylinder comes out exact lenght as on my friends glanza, there's burn marks on the first flywheel that the first paddle cluch disc that got destroyed(trd padle) same flywheel got instaled on my buddys car and cluch works no problem, then i fited new(standart flywheel) new padle disc new presure plate(90% uprated) disc blew to peices in it destroing gearbox casing, then i decidet to go for twin plate, and its starting to ratle again i'd say one of the disc's gone already.
the thing is. it is perfect for about 400-500 miles and then starts to ratle and disc goes, before it goes clutch pedle stays firm but barely engages the clutch at very end of the pedle
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME
ITS WRECKING MY HEAD
weeJohn
Lifer
Kon has gave you the answer to your problem there gedis, you need to extend the slave cylinder piston to completely allow the clutch to disengage.
If its not pushing the release bearing in far enough, the plate is dragging like you are slipping the clutch, both on changes and when waiting to move off.
If its not pushing the release bearing in far enough, the plate is dragging like you are slipping the clutch, both on changes and when waiting to move off.
sorry to hi-jack
Hi i`m new to the sit and not sure how to start a thread. I have a ep82 with de-cat manifold,fuel reg, air intake full stainless boosting at 0.9 i have a exedy fast road cluch cluck fitted and i`m just wondering if anyone can tell me the best rpm to hold at for a launch from standing start thanks and sorry for butting in on the thread Andy :gt-logo
Hi i`m new to the sit and not sure how to start a thread. I have a ep82 with de-cat manifold,fuel reg, air intake full stainless boosting at 0.9 i have a exedy fast road cluch cluck fitted and i`m just wondering if anyone can tell me the best rpm to hold at for a launch from standing start thanks and sorry for butting in on the thread Andy :gt-logo
the leg is not loose its vedged in tight all the time against the fork, i used two washers on the bolt that holds the fork with release bearing to bring it closer to the presure plate, also managed to squeeze a nut in between the fork and leg of the slave cylinder, and its still the same, cluch is not fully sliping, it have small slipage at every rev so i think its not lining up properly but tryed so many new parts that i rant out options, also it breaks cluch disc's not wear them out
this is the picture when i'm holding one of the fins on the disc to the presure plate, the rest of them is of the plate so the disc is twisted(big time), in my opinion cluch is geting twisted between gearbox and engine, cant be gearbox shaft as i went thru 3 diferent gearboxes so its either the block or the crank, dont really think its the crank either cause the car reaches 8200 rpm no problem without braking it and knock levels is the same as the day one i got the car, unles its bent at the verry end where the flywheel is, can block realy be twisted in 250bhp 4e? i also took of main no. 3 cap to inspect thrust bearings and thei mint(once seen mk3 golf that had bad cluch due thrust bearing gone)
anyone any ideas?
gorganl2000
Lifer
gedis....is the shaft in your gearbox "true" (completely straight)?.....somehow it seems like something is not in line properly.....looking at the heat spots
and if u have a bent/damaged crank shaft, u would surely have known about it almost immediately...lol......
how about your flywheel?...but seeing u used a orc.which comes with a flywheel, that maybe out the question..
the common thing here is the gearbox and engine....as u tried several clutches and all of them failed.....and u say engine is good,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,so MAY be the shaft which connects to the clutch set up---shaft where clutch spines sit on...........get it checked for wear and straightness
check out your gearbox
and if u have a bent/damaged crank shaft, u would surely have known about it almost immediately...lol......
how about your flywheel?...but seeing u used a orc.which comes with a flywheel, that maybe out the question..
the common thing here is the gearbox and engine....as u tried several clutches and all of them failed.....and u say engine is good,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,so MAY be the shaft which connects to the clutch set up---shaft where clutch spines sit on...........get it checked for wear and straightness
check out your gearbox
in my posts above i said i'm on the third flywheel, also tryed three different gearboxes( one freshly rebuilt by toyota them self's) so cant be that
gorganl2000
Lifer
ok gedis...i read through the post completely ---again...lol
i am starting to think that maybe there is some wear on the end of the crank where the flywheel actually bolts to (the round "flange" area which holds the 6 flywheel bolts) which is causing the various clutch assemblies to not sit completely level.....next time u take off the flywheel....check that area carefully---look for any impression/wear
i can clearly see heat marks in your pics...which would indicate excessive heat in that area, but the rest looks ok...again, your disc is warped in one spot, but the rest looks ok......and your disc is torn off in one spot, but the rest looks ok........so that's why i say what i outlined above
does the gearbox fit up easily and flush to the engine and all the bolts properly torqued down with good supporting engine mounts?
your problem is truly a wonder...i will re-read the entire tread again........and talk to my mechanic about it........and see what he says
i am starting to think that maybe there is some wear on the end of the crank where the flywheel actually bolts to (the round "flange" area which holds the 6 flywheel bolts) which is causing the various clutch assemblies to not sit completely level.....next time u take off the flywheel....check that area carefully---look for any impression/wear
i can clearly see heat marks in your pics...which would indicate excessive heat in that area, but the rest looks ok...again, your disc is warped in one spot, but the rest looks ok......and your disc is torn off in one spot, but the rest looks ok........so that's why i say what i outlined above
does the gearbox fit up easily and flush to the engine and all the bolts properly torqued down with good supporting engine mounts?
your problem is truly a wonder...i will re-read the entire tread again........and talk to my mechanic about it........and see what he says
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