CT9 oil return/feed question

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ikzgtt

Member +
does anyone know what size the banjo bolt is on the filter side, i am trying to price up a braided fix but cannot find the banjo bolt size.

if fuel hose can handle high temps of oil feed, i really would like confirmation as it would save me alot on braiding the feed :)
 
D

Dave@TM-developments.com

Trader
The problem is they mainly break right up near the flange, the only good solution would be to dispose of the hard pipe altogether and have a fitting in the flange to take a braided line
 
dantheman

dantheman

Member +
hi mate, i personally wouldnt be happy with cutting the centre section and replacing with hose unless you are able to flare each end of the pipes where you cut it.. best thing to do would be get another feed/return and heat it up and bend it to shape, as it cant be that far out .. ? and also fit a new gasket (gen toyota one)

it may be worth having a word with sacha aka wicked_ep as he does stainless steel versions of the ct9 oil feed with his kits which will be alot less likely to crack/split
 
dantheman

dantheman

Member +
or like said above, have a male welded to the flange and run a braided line with banjo one end and female turbo end.. probably best bet actually, for the long run..
 
Toddi

Toddi

Member +
I'm having this same problem, on my 3rd :(

I have the speedvision mani and heard alot of people say there a poor fit. (I didnt fit it).

Would it be worth replacing it? I hear i can have the turbo braced and this may solve it?
 
GTnomez

GTnomez

Member +
come to think of it, i have this same problem. on where the oil feeds into the turbo, there is a slight leak, small drops of oil, i just thought i overtightened it!
i just keep my oil topped up and everytime i drive off from where i park, i check the floor! lol im getting a new turbo set up so i should have braid lines by then
 
C

Corey_gt

Admin
dantheman said:
i would only heat up a new one..
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Ya the braded sounds good I dont really understand the sizing though for the banjo and pipe. Like -12jic and the likes is there a chart anywhere online so I can see what size I need in to get.:) Cheers man rep added.
 
I

ikzgtt

Member +
does anyone know the banjo fitment size?

mate whos dad owns a company that can fabricate em can get me it done for 11am if i get the banjo size tonight

i can then get it welded on at lunch.

rep given dan n dave
 
I

ikzgtt

Member +
seeing as no one knows the banjo connector size....

im gonna just weld a male connector to the standard banjo. will just cut the banjo pipe about 5mm up the pipe and weld a male connector to it and also weld a male connector flush onto the flange of the oil feed/return.

should cost less than £20 from a hydraulic co and welding will be approx £5-10 but a mate can prob do it for free.

happy days :)
 
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gorganl2000

Lifer
may i ask how u fitted it up..........as what i do in this situation is first completely tighten up the oil feed line to the turbo and to the oil unit housing.....THEN i finish tighten up the turbo to the manifold....and i never had any leaks/breaks......even when i stretched it to fit on the 5E

this way the oil feed line fits flush at both bases and only the "line itself" will hold the adjustment instead of where it joins the oil unit and the turbo

and i would not advise cutting the oil feed line.....if u do, then get it joined back properly with the same material the line is made from

and i too have ran aftermarket manifolds.....

the sps mani we used never caused any issues....the slight out of place thing is HARD to cure,,,,as its truly up to the jig used, but each weld will tension things out of place....so very few things made on jigs will fit exactly....they will be close however.........even simple things need to be taken into account when welding.....someting like the flange being a little distorted can put things out of place very slightly

its usually nothing to worry about........but every case is different
 
I

ikzgtt

Member +
gorganl2000 said:
may i ask how u fitted it up..........as what i do in this situation is first completely tighten up the oil feed line to the turbo and to the oil unit housing.....THEN i finish tighten up the turbo to the manifold....and i never had any leaks/breaks......even when i stretched it to fit on the 5E

this way the oil feed line fits flush at both bases and only the "line itself" will hold the adjustment instead of where it joins the oil unit and the turbo

and i would not advise cutting the oil feed line.....if u do, then get it joined back properly with the same material the line is made from

and i too have ran aftermarket manifolds.....

the sps mani we used never caused any issues....the slight out of place thing is HARD to cure,,,,as its truly up to the jig used, but each weld will tension things out of place....so very few things made on jigs will fit exactly....they will be close however.........even simple things need to be taken into account when welding.....someting like the flange being a little distorted can put things out of place very slightly

its usually nothing to worry about........but every case is different
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i have solved this problem now. it was 4mm out! i agree with what you are saying but regardless, the item should have been as advertised which was "standard replacement bar the efi pipe". I should rightfully not have to buy anything else when it is advertised this way especially after the substantial expense of the mani.

jigging is the responsibility of the seller to which i have spoken to but am still not happy that it didnt fit properly regardless of how hard it may be to jig as it is time consuming and costs to correct either way i look at it. its not easy to get a new and substantial/sufficient oil feed/return made and it costs!

the fact is, a warning of this may have been nice in the advertising as a cracked mani is not as much of a problem than a cracked return feed which can cook my engine and turbo in seconds on the motorway if it properly splits. At least other buyers can be aware of my experiences now before purchasing custon mani's.

here is a pic of the fix a my mates hydraulic co helped me with, its before tightening so when tightened, the banjo was rotated well away from the turbo not that it matters but i didnt want it touching the turbo or the filter. it is bang in the middle now and NOT positioned as in the pic.

the flange and banjo now are not under strain and it holds with no leaks properly now.

cost me near to nothing too as i know them!

happy days :)

DSC01167.jpg
 
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gorganl2000

Lifer
glad u got sorted boss:cool:

PS- the sps mani we fitted was spot on...even the stock efi pipe went back into place easily....just saying this for the other members also
 
S

Starbus

Member +
You'll get these cracking on standard manifolds also, a manifold will move close to 4mm from hot to cold so thats not the issue here. Plus the pipe although "solid" can be bent through about 50mm in some cases without issue.
 
I

ikzgtt

Member +
im not into botch jobs though and wouldnt have such an important pipe under strain on any turbo car or touching the block which it was especially when just 3-4 mm of flex in it can crack it. You may be lucky if you or someone you know managed 50mm long term with no cracking.

if it cracks, the block and turbo could pop if im cruisin 300 miles to london which i regularly do. well worth redoing it. the fact that so many people have had this problem is tribute to how easily they can crumble under strain.

mine didnt break luckily but it was enough strain to not allow the flange to seal properly and leak. the bolts were very tight too and it didnt help.

the gasket is the same one and is in perfect condition before and now so it was the strain on the pipe that created the leak. i tested this before and after a few times:)
 
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S

Starbus

Member +
ikzgtt said:
im not into botch jobs though and wouldnt have such an important pipe under strain on any turbo car or touching the block which it was especially when just 3-4 mm of flex in it can crack it. You may be lucky if you or someone you know managed 50mm long term with no cracking.

if it cracks, the block and turbo could pop if im cruisin 300 miles to london which i regularly do. well worth redoing it. the fact that so many people have had this problem is tribute to how easily they can crumble under strain.

mine didnt break luckily but it was enough strain to not allow the flange to seal properly and leak. the bolts were very tight too and it didnt help.

the gasket is the same one and is in perfect condition before and now so it was the strain on the pipe that created the leak. i tested this before and after a few times:)
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I wouldn't advise anybody to bend these through 50mm, but the metal is not 2 disimilar to rigid fuel hose, which is fairly maluable, the old feed could be bent through 4mm with no problems IMO, there wouldn't be an ongoing stress on it, as it would be bent once then left.

If you was going to do the job properly you should have removed the banjo bolt and got a screw in fitting so there isn't a compression fitting onto the old pipe. IMO what you have done is no better than the original pipe bent through 4mm.
 
C

Corey_gt

Admin
Starbus said:
I wouldn't advise anybody to bend these through 50mm, but the metal is not 2 disimilar to rigid fuel hose, which is fairly maluable, the old feed could be bent through 4mm with no problems IMO, there wouldn't be an ongoing stress on it, as it would be bent once then left.

If you was going to do the job properly you should have removed the banjo bolt and got a screw in fitting so there isn't a compression fitting onto the old pipe. IMO what you have done is no better than the original pipe bent through 4mm.
Click to expand...

Peace of mind is the difference there mate.
 
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