d2 bong
- Thread starter bicrod
- Start date
sx_turbo
Lifer
its the bit where the top mount pivots on.
the shock should NOT be twisting to make the spring preload, the idea is the whole shock moves as one on the pivot, therefore the shoud should not twist. the shock only twists and makes that bong because the ball joint hasnt been greased properly.
jack the car up and turn the wheel with no load on the shocks, you will see what i mean.
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i was just going to post up about this. my d2s hav been bonging a bit lately. i was doing an oil nd filter b4 nd looked at my shochers nd thought f**k my locking rings had undone themselves is this bad? and another thing, when u bolt the hub to the bottom of the shocker the top hole isnt round it lets u move the hub in nd out(camber adjudtment) but if u want no camber how do you get both the wheels at the same angle?
sx_turbo
Lifer
push it in as far as u can and adjust the camber viar the camber adjustable top mounts.
my buddy clubs used to do the same thing and i then realised it was because the pillow balls MUST be greased, other wise the wont work and your shock will twist whisch is very bad as this can damage the seal on the shaft and make the shock leak.
so grease your pillow ball top mounts the actual ball itself that the meyal mount attaches to and all should be hunky dory after that.
dac69er
Super Moderator
that angle is actually called the kpi, or king pin inclination.
you should try and go with a 0 kpi, only thing i found is that it hits on a bracket if you move it too far inwards!
ive had my lockrings loosen before. you are meant to tighten them up with a screwdriver and a mallet. do this and youll have no problems.
you should try and go with a 0 kpi, only thing i found is that it hits on a bracket if you move it too far inwards!
ive had my lockrings loosen before. you are meant to tighten them up with a screwdriver and a mallet. do this and youll have no problems.
dac69er
Super Moderator
how do you grease the ball? do you just undo the nut ontop then jack the car up to drop it down?
sx_turbo
Lifer
im not entirley sure how the top mounts come apart on the d2's, but you could just try spraying wd-40 in there lots of it, it seemed to work for me.
dac69er
Super Moderator
thats part of my regular servicing. i lube them with wd40 every week or so when im using the car!
sx_turbo
Lifer
do you really?
i dont want to sound like im taking the piss mate but that is slightly anal lol
ok have you tried greasing the pillow balls at all?
that bong noise should definately not be there.
dac69er
Super Moderator
i just do it when i check the oil, thats all. i tend to check the oil weekly or every other week, depending on how often i use the car.
i would try and grease them but i dont know if you can remove the ball from the socket to clean and grease them. if not there isnt much you can do about it tbh.
shelly_star
Lifer
my brothers D2 does the same thing too, wd40 fixed it like said above.
WD-40 isn't really the best lube for the job. (isn't a great lubricant at all, it's just good at loosening things up.)
You could get some bike grease at your local bike shop. This is pretty thin. You could try roller bearing grease, but that’s pretty thick so hard to get it inside the bearing.
You could get some bike grease at your local bike shop. This is pretty thin. You could try roller bearing grease, but that’s pretty thick so hard to get it inside the bearing.
Monkfish
Member +
I had this with mine too. I think most of the noise is coming from the spring, especially if you have upped the spring pre-load. What I did was...
This didn't fully cure the clunks, but it made it a hell of a lot better. Oddly, after fitting the Whiteline Anti-Lift kit, the clunking stopped entirely. Now all I get is a horrendous clicking from my fucked N/S outer CV joint and the anti-roll bar knocking about.
- Took the whole unit off the car
- Slackened off the spring pre-load so the spring was free to be moved about
- Applied liberal amounts of grease to the base of the spring and the carrier. Repeat with the top of spring
- Grease ball joint
- Tighten spring pre-load back up and refit the unit to the car
This didn't fully cure the clunks, but it made it a hell of a lot better. Oddly, after fitting the Whiteline Anti-Lift kit, the clunking stopped entirely. Now all I get is a horrendous clicking from my fucked N/S outer CV joint and the anti-roll bar knocking about.
Cheers for all the advice i greased the top mount last night but it still made the bomg noise in the end i undid the mount that holds the prload spring in place and found that it had loads of grit in it i cleaned this all up and bobs your uncle it doesnt do it anymore but it could have been a combo of the both??:rockon: