Glanza - light, over responsive turn in, light rear end...
- Thread starter SupaStu
- Start date
SupaStu
Member +
I'm gonna need to call them and see if they actually did track it. I had teins on before, and was never twitchy like this. Its verging on dangerous if you werent used to driving it. Overtaking on country roads is a death wish waiting on happen. I could get it doing a nice wobble at 60mph to the point of flipping it GTAV style.
I hardened the dampers more on the back as it feels really sloppy. The only time it felt okay, was when I had it loaded to the max moving stuff!
Its like driving with your body stiff, gives you minor heart attacks at speed.
I hardened the dampers more on the back as it feels really sloppy. The only time it felt okay, was when I had it loaded to the max moving stuff!
Its like driving with your body stiff, gives you minor heart attacks at speed.
SupaStu
Member +
Yeap maybe, feels like the car is on an axis when you turn the wheel, you turn the wheel and the front goes in the opposite direction from the rear, pull the wheel sharp the other way and change your pants
dac69er
Super Moderator
now I think of it, I think Rory has hit the nail on the head. sounds exactly like the problem. if it is, then I wouldn't let that garage work on your car again as they are clearly incompetent.
SupaStu
Member +
Aww fuck... i'll call them now..
SupaStu
Member +
Called and checked, they said all toe, alignment was sorted when the fronts were fitted, camber plates on correct etc. I'll take a pic and see what you think. They reckoned it may be due to shorter travel on the coilovers, had teins and jic before and never had this issue tho. Also that the rear susp is not adjustable, ie just beam, and standard panhard rod.
I can leave in to them anytime, just want to see if I can sort out first.
Any other tips to stop this, tyre psi, how much stiffness on rear shocks, lower rear shocks?
I can leave in to them anytime, just want to see if I can sort out first.
Any other tips to stop this, tyre psi, how much stiffness on rear shocks, lower rear shocks?
gorganl2000
Lifer
something is very wrong with something in your set-up if your car was driving well before this change. was this the only change you made?
you mean meister R coilovers?--if so i know them to ride very well on the glanza
check wheel alignment
check tire pressures
check tire wear
check coilovers and suspension properly secured at all points
try reducing the stiffness on the rear coilovers
and we did the complete install and tracking at home the old fashioned way
i think i run 8 clicks on front and 4 clicks on rear
try a few psi lower in the rear tires----i usually try 2-4psi lower in the rear tires versus the front
over time, i also installed a rear sway bar (ultra racing) and a rear top stabilizer bar which help immensely with the overall handling of the car...its now much more predictable
i had an adjustable pan hard rod form ages ago when i used lowering springs....its really essential to bring the rear axle back to "centre" and give an accurate set up
by any chance is your back axle skewed to one side? any of the rear tires scrubbing on the wheel arch?
please post a pic of your front top mounts by the shock towers if you can
you mean meister R coilovers?--if so i know them to ride very well on the glanza
check wheel alignment
check tire pressures
check tire wear
check coilovers and suspension properly secured at all points
try reducing the stiffness on the rear coilovers
and we did the complete install and tracking at home the old fashioned way
i think i run 8 clicks on front and 4 clicks on rear
try a few psi lower in the rear tires----i usually try 2-4psi lower in the rear tires versus the front
over time, i also installed a rear sway bar (ultra racing) and a rear top stabilizer bar which help immensely with the overall handling of the car...its now much more predictable
i had an adjustable pan hard rod form ages ago when i used lowering springs....its really essential to bring the rear axle back to "centre" and give an accurate set up
by any chance is your back axle skewed to one side? any of the rear tires scrubbing on the wheel arch?
please post a pic of your front top mounts by the shock towers if you can
Last edited:
Jay
Admin
Wouldn't be the first time someone has messed up geometry settings and denied all knowledge.
If they are using the latest alignment ramps they should be able to give you a print out of all the settings before and after adjustment. You could always take it to somewhere else for a second opinion then go back at them depending on what is found.
Sounds very like a geometry issue to me but if you work through the points Mr Gorgan posted you might find something amiss elsewhere mate.
If they are using the latest alignment ramps they should be able to give you a print out of all the settings before and after adjustment. You could always take it to somewhere else for a second opinion then go back at them depending on what is found.
Sounds very like a geometry issue to me but if you work through the points Mr Gorgan posted you might find something amiss elsewhere mate.
SupaStu
Member +
Thanks all, i'll take a look at the settings tonight again based on gorgon and see what happens. They are good mechanics, and work a lot on rally cars etc, but somethings def not quite right. However there is nothing electronic they have to give a print out, just usual laser alignment tools.
Rory
Lifer
If the only thing you have changed is the coilovers then it points towards something the garage has done.. Weather it be the camber plates being 180 degree's out or the tracking a mile off. Highly doubt its anything to do with the damping adjustment either.
Thats the only things that can really upset your cars handling (apart from a really goosed bush!)
Thats the only things that can really upset your cars handling (apart from a really goosed bush!)
SupaStu
Member +
Okay just been out and checked a few things, as they were:
Front shocks were set at 27 clicks hard
Rear shocks were set at 10 clicks hard
Will need to get pics of front shock plates uploaded.
I've set the front damping to 8 clicks at front and 4 at the rear, took it out there and it seems much better, turn in on the front is reduced a lot, and doesn't throw the balance off like it did previously. Everything seems a lot more stable cornering, and at general speed 60/70 etc.
All the tyres are brand new Yokohama S drive on front and W drive at rear. No other handling mods, just stock items (no rear strut brace).
Does this make sense?
Front shocks were set at 27 clicks hard
Rear shocks were set at 10 clicks hard
Will need to get pics of front shock plates uploaded.
I've set the front damping to 8 clicks at front and 4 at the rear, took it out there and it seems much better, turn in on the front is reduced a lot, and doesn't throw the balance off like it did previously. Everything seems a lot more stable cornering, and at general speed 60/70 etc.
All the tyres are brand new Yokohama S drive on front and W drive at rear. No other handling mods, just stock items (no rear strut brace).
Does this make sense?
gorganl2000
Lifer
glad to hear there was some improvement
does your car drive "straight" or does it pull to any side?
what tire pressures do you run in the front and rear tires? at the moment
did you check to see if your rear axle is skewed towards one side of the car?----since your car is lowered and has on the standard panhard rod, its a strong possibility..........this can affect handling
get those pics up asap
does your car drive "straight" or does it pull to any side?
what tire pressures do you run in the front and rear tires? at the moment
did you check to see if your rear axle is skewed towards one side of the car?----since your car is lowered and has on the standard panhard rod, its a strong possibility..........this can affect handling
get those pics up asap
I have had my meisters on for a while now and I'm still messing with them. The front end felt really sluggish and understeered like a mofo. I added a bunch of clicks to the rear, but the front still felt off. I took off my front whiteline ARB and replaced with the stock one (left the rear ARB) and it seemed to make the front end a bit more responsive. Also worth mentioning I have a whiteline anti-lift kit and panhard. Camber is set at -0.5°