Glanza - light, over responsive turn in, light rear end...

ryan_v

Lifer
Ive had this problem before, it was the camber. Where the shock bolts to the hub there is some play so it is hard to get both sides exactly the same, therefore your top plates markings wont be reading equal.

I took it to magowans in mallusk and they done the laser wheel alignment/camber to a fast road spec and it handled like a go kart after!

I have the print out in the car, il have to hoke it out.
 

SupaStu

Member +
Checked tyre pressure, 30 front, 28 rear psi, also notice its sitting about 10/20 mm higher at rear. Camber looks the same on both sides, but i know my teins were off like ryan said.

Now with pics:

Front left (driver):



Front right:



Worth lowering the rear to bring in line with fronts?

Cheers stu
 
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Murray

Member +
Your camber plates are near the limit and are only at -2?
Id go with what Rory said, and dont lower the rear to match the front. You always want abit of rake.
 

thefalls

Member +
I suspect that there is too much camber in the front..What you have to do is when you go for camber setting,ask the guy the set the camber to zero on the plates first then to proceed with the camber on the hub/[where the shocks bolt].
This way you can play with the camber plates to choose which setting suits you. If the camber is not set up from the bub first then the turn in wont be the same on both wheels and the setting will differ on both wheels.

I hope you are getting what i am trying to say.... I had the same problem a few months ago..the cambers plates showed different values on the plates for both right and left but on the print out it was the same amount of camber on both wheels.

So when i went for alignment before an autocross event,i asked the guy to do it my way...and it turned out to be good!
 
took a look at my plates today...the setting is no where close to what you have

mine are set at the 1st dash on the inside of the middle point on the plates---hope you understand what i'm saying
whereas yours are set to the 6th dash on the inside of the middle point on the plates
 

Motor

Member +
Mine also has similar issues to you, with a similar camber set up but Ive narrowed my issue down to an out of line rear axle (have an adjustable panhard rod but i misadjusted it when I lowered the rear).

So double check that your rear axle was adjusted correctly (if at all).
 

SupaStu

Member +
Mine also has similar issues to you, with a similar camber set up but Ive narrowed my issue down to an out of line rear axle (have an adjustable panhard rod but i misadjusted it when I lowered the rear).

So double check that your rear axle was adjusted correctly (if at all).

My rear axle is not adjustable at all, stock panhard rod, however had teins on before never has this problem. The teins were setup the same as what gorgan and the falls said, strange why they setup like this, although was a different guy this time. Almost feels like they are competing with each other on each side, front gets light at speed, like driving on over inflated tyres (the tyres are at correct setting). I'll get them to check again when I get paid, couple of other things to sort. cheers
 

Motor

Member +
My rear axle is not adjustable at all, stock panhard rod, however had teins on before never has this problem. The teins were setup the same as what gorgan and the falls said, strange why they setup like this, although was a different guy this time. Almost feels like they are competing with each other on each side, front gets light at speed, like driving on over inflated tyres (the tyres are at correct setting). I'll get them to check again when I get paid, couple of other things to sort. cheers

I had teins previously too; again with no issues. The Rs are a lot lower however so throws the rear axle off further.

For a cheaper fix than buying an adjustable panhard rod, i followed this tutorial (much cheaper and works exactly the same).
 

Galen

Lifer
I suspect that there is too much camber in the front..What you have to do is when you go for camber setting,ask the guy the set the camber to zero on the plates first then to proceed with the camber on the hub/[where the shocks bolt].
This way you can play with the camber plates to choose which setting suits you. If the camber is not set up from the bub first then the turn in wont be the same on both wheels and the setting will differ on both wheels.

I hope you are getting what i am trying to say.... I had the same problem a few months ago..the cambers plates showed different values on the plates for both right and left but on the print out it was the same amount of camber on both wheels.

So when i went for alignment before an autocross event,i asked the guy to do it my way...and it turned out to be good!

How is the camber set at the hubs?
Using the settings on my topmounts I cant get the same amount of negative camber on bith sides.
My driverside when pushed fully in for negative camber is not enough to match the passenger side
 

Gryzor

Admin
How is the camber set at the hubs?
Using the settings on my topmounts I cant get the same amount of negative camber on bith sides.
My driverside when pushed fully in for negative camber is not enough to match the passenger side

You could use camber bolts..
can%20bolt%20diagram.jpg
 

Galen

Lifer
Must look into them. Often heard of them but never really knew how they worked.
Many starlet owners using them?
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
adjusting the camber of the wheel at that point is actually called the KPI (king ping inclination).

not much point when most people fit coilovers which have camber adjustable topmounts. also, some coilovers come with a slotted bolt hole on the hub attachment so you can adjust the KPI angle from there.
 

STARLET N/A

Member +
I suspect that what some of the others have said is right. The top mounts according to the pictures that you have put show that your running maximum camber.

I had the same and turnt that mount 180 degrees and it was spot on when Formula one garage checked it for me.

If you have lowered your car without a adjustable panhard rod the car wil start to crab. Even lowering your car 30mm is enough for it to start feeling uncomfortable on the road. So if I was you I would also get that sorted.
 

SupaStu

Member +
I suspect that what some of the others have said is right. The top mounts according to the pictures that you have put show that your running maximum camber.

I had the same and turnt that mount 180 degrees and it was spot on when Formula one garage checked it for me.

If you have lowered your car without a adjustable panhard rod the car wil start to crab. Even lowering your car 30mm is enough for it to start feeling uncomfortable on the road. So if I was you I would also get that sorted.

Hi, not quite sure what you mean here, are you saying you had this problem, and the top mount was round the wrong way? You moved it round and it was ok?

I've had two sets of coilovers on before (TEINs, and JIC racing (hardcore) with no issues and same setup.

The front feels like the two tyres turn into penny farthings and super scarey when at 60+ mph and turning. I'm leaving it in next week with them to check over again, I dont get why my teins were setup differently from the MR Rs, they said they were not as adjustable on camber as the teins?

On crabbing, sorry do you mean jumping around sideways? Only had this on the racing JICs as they were hard a feck, when running on bad roads.
 

STARLET N/A

Member +
Take it to a formula one garage and get them to check suspension geometry setup.

They will only charge you if they adjust something so have a look at what they say and go from there
 

Rory

Lifer
Getting a formula one garage to work on it? WHY? And who would you be using?

Turn the top plates 180 degree's and have your allignment and camber re done. Garantee'd it will be fine after this.
 
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