Idrees
Banned
You sure thats right? Do you not mean 28 at front and 30 rear?
handling still not right...
- Thread starter Adam_Glanza
- Start date
59bhp
Member +
yeah as youve got the weight of the engine etc, tbh though i doubt anyone of us would notice a 2psi difference.
Captain Starlet
Member +
believe it or not there is a bit of a difference plus getting the right pressures is vital to the life of your tyres!
SupaStu
Member +
Update... on my Teins, dropped the ride down to about 4 threads from the bottom of the coilover on the fronts, now dropped down by a good bit, more like it was before.
Took her out for a spin up a mountain near me... holy shit the front stuck to the road like a magnet, was booting round the corners in 2/3 gear (very steep hill and tight corners) very little wheel spin or bounce and the back end staying in place. Booted it back down and the power is now going down on the road like it should.
I reckon this is better than the JICs i had before, feels safe now and I trust how much power im putting through the front wheels.
The rear is still slightly higher than the front, not had time to drop em, but the handling is excellent, and the damping is still set to hard all round but the ride quality is far better than the JICs.
Teins Super Street, ace so far, like wee John says it takes ages until you find what suits you, and like adam I knew feck all about coilovers and adjusting them, just played around with them today for a couple of hours.
Took her out for a spin up a mountain near me... holy shit the front stuck to the road like a magnet, was booting round the corners in 2/3 gear (very steep hill and tight corners) very little wheel spin or bounce and the back end staying in place. Booted it back down and the power is now going down on the road like it should.
I reckon this is better than the JICs i had before, feels safe now and I trust how much power im putting through the front wheels.
The rear is still slightly higher than the front, not had time to drop em, but the handling is excellent, and the damping is still set to hard all round but the ride quality is far better than the JICs.
Teins Super Street, ace so far, like wee John says it takes ages until you find what suits you, and like adam I knew feck all about coilovers and adjusting them, just played around with them today for a couple of hours.
HorwathBence
Member +
Hi !
I think the trouble was that in higher position u get more preload on the spring, wich means that the weight of the car push the springs down les, wich means that under cornering your negative travel was not enough and your wheels lifted upp. As u lowered the nuts under the spring, u decreased the preload and increased the negative travel.
If u fel som delay in the movement of the car in corner, i suggest that u can thry a softer damper setup, thisway the springs can move the tyres down faster. Im not sure what sort of "boaty feeling are you speaking of, couse both end can feel like. If the spring is too hard, or the dampers are too weak, u ll feel bouncyng, after a hump your car ll hump some more. The other end u ll feel like the car is sleapy, in a corner it ll slo o o wly roll in with a bit of owersteer. This can feel like the same as the toomuch of preload.
In a weaker car u can test the load of the iner tyre in a parking lot by taking a forced turn around, then at the end of the turn with an acceleration. The car should accelerate out or spin the inner wheel continousli or yust with slight stickslyping. Huge sticksliping or hits means the iner tyre is in the air. Unfortunately with lsd and with that turbo monster thats a bit difficult cause there is no tyre what can keep it...
A propos tyre... thats an important issue to. U can set the balance with it from uge owersteer to huge understeer, but the about 1.9 -2 bars are correct.
The wheel angles are another story, with the camber u can give a give a slight more stability in corners, as u move the uper edge of the tyre in, so in corner due to deformation the road ll not eat the edge of the tyre. With the castor u can set the camber angle under turning. usually its not adyusable, or if so, on the top bearings. Both the negative degs are finer. Plus, if u give negative camber your wheel ll go under the fender without smashing it. The toe effects under or owersteer so, or the agression of the car. Try it about zero, for agression go for toeout (-) for straight run stabilyti for (+).
I we yust been to a dynorun on a newly developed pad, wich let the car run freely on its foot, and measured a slight increase to toe in under braking (400N of side force) and a litle out under accelerating (60N out). That means that our suspension is quite stiff, and no need to calculate to squizeing...
Oh sory... thats long, anda bit far away from your problem.I think that u are doing well lowering the car, if it hits the wheelarch try more camber, if sill buy a same strong, same syze but shorter spring, wich ll let u use less preload.
Here is mine :-D I designed it. I manufactured it. I love it. (soon there ll be an evo2...)
In my opinion all high setings ll effect the angles, couse macpeson s are not paralel, as lowering the car the steering bar ll push the steering arm out, generating toe in.
Sory for being long.
I think the trouble was that in higher position u get more preload on the spring, wich means that the weight of the car push the springs down les, wich means that under cornering your negative travel was not enough and your wheels lifted upp. As u lowered the nuts under the spring, u decreased the preload and increased the negative travel.
If u fel som delay in the movement of the car in corner, i suggest that u can thry a softer damper setup, thisway the springs can move the tyres down faster. Im not sure what sort of "boaty feeling are you speaking of, couse both end can feel like. If the spring is too hard, or the dampers are too weak, u ll feel bouncyng, after a hump your car ll hump some more. The other end u ll feel like the car is sleapy, in a corner it ll slo o o wly roll in with a bit of owersteer. This can feel like the same as the toomuch of preload.
In a weaker car u can test the load of the iner tyre in a parking lot by taking a forced turn around, then at the end of the turn with an acceleration. The car should accelerate out or spin the inner wheel continousli or yust with slight stickslyping. Huge sticksliping or hits means the iner tyre is in the air. Unfortunately with lsd and with that turbo monster thats a bit difficult cause there is no tyre what can keep it...
A propos tyre... thats an important issue to. U can set the balance with it from uge owersteer to huge understeer, but the about 1.9 -2 bars are correct.
The wheel angles are another story, with the camber u can give a give a slight more stability in corners, as u move the uper edge of the tyre in, so in corner due to deformation the road ll not eat the edge of the tyre. With the castor u can set the camber angle under turning. usually its not adyusable, or if so, on the top bearings. Both the negative degs are finer. Plus, if u give negative camber your wheel ll go under the fender without smashing it. The toe effects under or owersteer so, or the agression of the car. Try it about zero, for agression go for toeout (-) for straight run stabilyti for (+).
I we yust been to a dynorun on a newly developed pad, wich let the car run freely on its foot, and measured a slight increase to toe in under braking (400N of side force) and a litle out under accelerating (60N out). That means that our suspension is quite stiff, and no need to calculate to squizeing...
Oh sory... thats long, anda bit far away from your problem.I think that u are doing well lowering the car, if it hits the wheelarch try more camber, if sill buy a same strong, same syze but shorter spring, wich ll let u use less preload.
Here is mine :-D I designed it. I manufactured it. I love it. (soon there ll be an evo2...)
In my opinion all high setings ll effect the angles, couse macpeson s are not paralel, as lowering the car the steering bar ll push the steering arm out, generating toe in.
Sory for being long.