Help from those with HKS Actuators!!!

[MikeGlanzaV]

obvious one this but did the guy actually unclip the actuator from the wastegate before measuring it's length? schoolboy error i know but it's worth checking.

Sorry mate what d'ya mean? Do you mean that with the car switched on and the actuator attached to the wastegate the rod is being pulled out?

So if the length was at 130mm on the car that may equate to only 120mm off the car and hence causing the issues??

 

[Aidan-G]

screw it out another bit!and bring it for a drive..dont put the little clip on the actuator tho as you'l more than likely have to do it a few times..those little clips are a nusence!

 

[ChrisGT]

Err..im confused here, just lengthen it out until it has only a few turns left (lowest possible boost setting) and give it a go. If it still overboosts then its simply boost creep and nothing you can do about it.

 

[storey]

the actuator needs to measure 123 mm for 0.8bar mate and if its 130mm it would only be boosting to around 0.4bar so that measurement doesn't seem right. you need 1 mm = 0.1bar roughly from 119 mm to 128mm.

i had the same prob when garage didnt fit it right and it hit boost cut and nearly flew me thru the window. and that was with a fcd lol.

 

[alfradio]

the actuator needs to measure 123 mm for 0.8bar mate and if its 130mm it would only be boosting to around 0.4bar so that measurement doesn't seem right. you need 1 mm = 0.1bar roughly from 119 mm to 128mm.

i had the same prob when garage didnt fit it right and it hit boost cut and nearly flew me thru the window. and that was with a fcd lol.

EACH APPLICATION IS DIFFERENT!!!

I too installed an HKS actuator a while back and followed the on-line instructions to a "T" and when I took it for a test drive down the street, I was OVERBOOSTING and hitting fuel cut off and it was just a total mess.... I gingerly drove the car back home and took the thing off, put back the stock one and have lived happily ever after!

I will attempt to install the HKS again, once this thread comes to some conclusion!

alf

 

[storey]

how can each application be different same actuator to same turbo?? or do hks just put up a guide just for fun?

think you will find that there may be some small differences but nothing that causes it to overboost massively. and if its overboosting slighty then you just adjust it accordingly.shouldn't have a problem if the instructions and guides are followed correctly. if it is then theres a problem else where.

 

[GT-TD04]

how can each application be different same actuator to same turbo?? or do hks just put up a guide just for fun?

think you will find that there may be some small differences but nothing that causes it to overboost massively. and if its overboosting slighty then you just adjust it accordingly.shouldn't have a problem if the instructions and guides are followed correctly. if it is then theres a problem else where.

Every car is different mate..

 

[storey]

yeah mate every car is different but just fitting a hks actuator correctly isnt going to be a big difference between each car. the actuator opens the waste gate = amount of boost run. depending on different variables then it'll need fine tweeking to get the desired boost. hks have would have tested the product and not just come up with some random measurements so id say start with what they say then adjust it accordingly to suit your setup prob a mm either way.

 

[Dub-Se7en]

Sorry mate what d'ya mean? Do you mean that with the car switched on and the actuator attached to the wastegate the rod is being pulled out?

So if the length was at 130mm on the car that may equate to only 120mm off the car and hence causing the issues??

the arm will always measure the same length on the car as it is attached to the wastegate. (unless its wound out so far it's opening the gate)

the correct way to adjust the actuator is to unclip it from the wastegate so it springs back, then measure from the diaphram housing to the middle of the hole that clips to the wastegate. wind the rod to the length you require then using molegrips/pliers etc pull the arm out and clip it back onto the wastegate.

 

[MikeGlanzaV]

Hmmm - Perhaps the measurements are being skewed because its been done whilst on the car attached to the wastegate then? Annoying as I would have at least thought one of the two places its been to to be sorted would have been able to set it up adequately.

Stupid question but whats the reason why its running spot on in low boost mode? Its certainly not restricted to 0.45 bar in 1st or 2nd or any other gear like when it was standard but seem to max out at 0.9bar. This is what I expected the results to be in high boost mode!

When I originally took the car in the low boost solenoid was bypassed but now I see pipework is running through it again. Bit confused tbh.

 

[Adam_Glanza]

well the pipe doesnt magically jump back onto the solenoid the garage must of put it back on for u thinking its a fault,

like i said in my previous post just play around with it till you get the right setting, following the chart settings wont always give you perfect readings as already stated every car is different

 

[Rory]

Easiest way to do it is, take the solenoid out of the equation all together.
Run a hose from the turbo to the actuator, and set the arm with the slightest tension on the wastegate flap.
You should run around 0.8 bar to 0.9 bar.

Remember you cant adjust it while the arm is attached to the flap, you will rip the diagphram inside.

 

[monka]

she must be wound out/in to much, wich ever, it is running 0.4 bar give or a take in low boost,

so its only reasonable to assume its trying to run 0.4 more when its in hi boost, hence why it is going to 1bar. just dial the boost down a bit more, go for a drive, wind it down, see if it works, wind it down, carry this on untill your at 00.9 0.8 bar, where ever you want it to be.

 

[Adam_Glanza]

like ive been saying for the last 2 days

 

[MikeGlanzaV]

Thanks for all the advice guys. The lengthening/shortening thing was something that I was already aware of and had been tried without success (not by me I hasten to add). The garage worked their way from too much boost wingding out bit by bit to the point where it was so long the wastegate was open far too much. At no point in between did the car run to 0.9bar hence my thread to search for other causes/solutions.

However the evidence from peeps opinions/experiences on here is pointing to the fact that garages know less than the enthusiast and you may as well do it yourself and save a fortune. Will get a mate to come over and help.

 

[MikeGlanzaV]

Tried playing with the length of the rod again yesterday. Went from 126mm (measured when detached from the wastegate) to 129mm. Unfortunately this made no difference. The car boosts to 0.9bar in low and as monka says presumably is trying to get to 1.3bar in Hi but the ECU shuts down way before then. I didnt have time to keep lengthening it as it went dark but I would estimate I have another 3mm of length I can add to the rod. More than this and the wastegate would start to be open at a standstill.

I know all cars are different but could someone accurately measure on their HKS actuator from the bottom of the actuator bracket to the moddle of the pin on the wategate flap please for a comparison?????

 

[MikeGlanzaV]

Also does the bracket supplied by HKS which holds the actuator only fit one way round?

 

[hardcoreep]

how can each application be different same actuator to same turbo?? or do hks just put up a guide just for fun?

think you will find that there may be some small differences but nothing that causes it to overboost massively. and if its overboosting slighty then you just adjust it accordingly.shouldn't have a problem if the instructions and guides are followed correctly. if it is then theres a problem else where.

The HKS Actuator is calibrated for a STOCK car. No modifications.

 

[hardcoreep]

Easiest way to do it is, take the solenoid out of the equation all together.
Run a hose from the turbo to the actuator, and set the arm with the slightest tension on the wastegate flap.
You should run around 0.8 bar to 0.9 bar.

Remember you cant adjust it while the arm is attached to the flap, you will rip the diagphram inside.

Best Advice here.

If it works in LO, then I suspect you have it set up wrong. The first thing to do was set the length to that of the stock actuator. I don't run the brass restrictor, never have.

It should look like this at the turbo side.

This is how its looks at the VSV solenoid side. The hose from the actuator (the thicker black one) goes to the front connection, while the rear connector (the thin blue one) goes to the intake pipe.

 

[MikeGlanzaV]

Hardcoreep - Thanks for the pics. I have it piped up the same as on your pics.

Im sure its physically fitted to the car in the correct way but it does have the brass restrictor in the short pipe that goes from the turbo to the T piece. Is it worth removing this??

Just to check - with the HKS Actuator fitted it leaves a pipe redundant. The one that runs from the cam cover to where it met the second spout on the original actuator?