HIGH REVS - what is the answer?

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turbominicooper

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I know this topic has been covered 100 times but every thread I read seems to bum out and no one actually puts there hands up and says 'yep that worked'.

I could really do with an answer as this has been an annoying feature of my starlet since I've had it and im holding back on buying an exhaust as I don't want it stuck gargling at 2000rpm in traffic everyday.

so as you've seen already the car idles at upto 2000rpm sometimes over but mainly at 18-1900.

I have swapped out the ICV for a 2nd hand id-workz one - still high.

I have noticed a constant clicking sound coming from both ICVs?

if I disconnect the icv plug there is no change in revs.

the idle screw is turned all the way in.

I have replaced most vacuum pipes with silicone hoses and removed all the aircon setup (and plugged up the pipes from it).

my battery is fully working/charged and the alternator keeps it charged.

the car will naturally do this on cold startup but will even do it once ive blasted it 5 miles and the temp gauge is half way.

I have noticed that when I stop after this 5 miles and restart the engine the revs will be down to 1200-1500 but still id like it lower then this (below 1000rpm).

Also with the PCV not connected to the intake and that port blocked off the revs are as low as I would expect but I believe this is bad for the engine having this blocked?

is this a stuck cold start?

any further ideas?

thanks

Ryan
 
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nistarbo

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Jay had told me a while ago that the wax stat in the throttle body when worn can cause idle issue. Finding a good 1 will probably be difficult.
Not saying it will cure your issue but just another thing that could be looked at.
This might only cause the idle jumping Ive had and may not be causing a constant high Rev
 
Jay

Jay

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Always a pain in the ass to sort this kind of thing but in the past I've seen the waxstat below the throttle valve go faulty. If this is the case it'll act as if the car is operating on the cold cycle (extra air being fed into the throttle body to assist when the engine is cold) all the time. I've replaced this waxstat unit separate from the throttle valve but seeing as the screws that hold it have a habit of rounding and the gasket comes apart when disturbed you'd be better getting a whole throttle valve for handiness.

Naturally you'll need to rule out any vacuum leaks, PCV issues, idle valve faults, etc beforehand. Also ensure the timing and TPS are set up properly too.

Jay
 
Jay

Jay

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Sorry to open this thread again mate but that bolt could very easily become dislodged at wide open throttle and cause severe engine damage.

With all due respect I would advise removing it ASAP until you figure out a more reliable/less insane solution. Please do not drive the car in the meantime!

Jay
 
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elison

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I have to back-up Jay on this on. That is not the smartest way to fix that problem. It could lead to a way more costly fix. Fix it the right way buddy.
 
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turbominicooper

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Jay said:
Sorry to open this thread again mate but that bolt could very easily become dislodged at wide open throttle and cause severe engine damage.

With all due respect I would advise removing it ASAP until you figure out a more reliable/less insane solution. Please do not drive the car in the meantime!

Jay
Click to expand...

ive driven it a bit this week with that in mind and all seems ok, that was y i put the gasket seal on it to stop it wriggling out. will check it today and adjust if needed - cheers chaps
 
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