just fitted brakes(problem) ??
- Thread starter Dan3SGTE
- Start date
Monkfish
Member +
FAIL. More heat is good.
Adam_Glanza
Member +
well it depends monk on the efficiency range of the pad.
its like f1 brakes etc they have to get over like 600 degrees before they even start to work or something stupid.
thats why standard pads get really bad fade because there designed to work from cold but are bollocks when they get hot
Toby@ToyTuning.com
Banned - DO NOT BUY FROM TOYTUNING
Unless you get something like the Sard Type M pads which work from 100degrees to 1000 degrees, now that's an all round pad!
With regards to the wearing of disks and pads it should not take more than a day at most, especially if you are using uprated pads and disks. Start at 40mph and apply the brake heavily (not so you skid) until around 5mph, do not stop the car. If it's a busy time of day and you are likely to get stuck in traffic then don't do it as you must not hold on the brakes stationary.
Do the same thing again and 50mph, 60mph, 70mph and 80mph, the last one at 80mph should be very heavy. Complete these steps 3-4 times and you will be good to go. Feathering around on the brake pedal while your moving is very old school, fine for stock brakes but anything uprated will need some heat to bed them in.
You feel lot's of fade as you bed them in but this will be normal until around the third/fourth run..
T
With regards to the wearing of disks and pads it should not take more than a day at most, especially if you are using uprated pads and disks. Start at 40mph and apply the brake heavily (not so you skid) until around 5mph, do not stop the car. If it's a busy time of day and you are likely to get stuck in traffic then don't do it as you must not hold on the brakes stationary.
Do the same thing again and 50mph, 60mph, 70mph and 80mph, the last one at 80mph should be very heavy. Complete these steps 3-4 times and you will be good to go. Feathering around on the brake pedal while your moving is very old school, fine for stock brakes but anything uprated will need some heat to bed them in.
You feel lot's of fade as you bed them in but this will be normal until around the third/fourth run..
T
Monkfish
Member +
The heat range of the pad is important, yes. However, you still want brakes to get as hot as possible. Energy cannot be destroyed, merely transfered. Brakes work by using friction to turn the rotational energy in the disk/wheel (or Kinetic energy in the car) into heat. Grooved disks aren't really a necessity and can, in some circumstances, reduce the braking efficiency. Why? Simple. Grooves = less surface area = less friction = less heat generated from rotational energy = less braking. Yes, grooves take the surface of the pad off preventing it from glazing over, but a pad in the right heat range will not glaze.
There are several reasons you get brake fade. The lower the DOT rating on brake fluid, the lower the boiling point. Boiling brake fluid looses some of it's compression and becomes more hygroscopic (absorbs water) which further reduces it's effectiveness (As well as fucking up your brake lines/cylinders). Stock and low spec pad material is bonded together with a special compound. This compound, when hot, creates a gas. This gas sits between the pad and disk, making the pads 'float' in the same way a hovercraft hovers. This is not good. Also, pads (even uprated ones) outside of their heat range glaze over and start to become useless.
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Monkfish
Member +
I've spawned a twin on this forum ^
You don't see grooves and drilled holes on Formula 1 carbon-carbon brakes.
Grooves = useless
Drilled = less rotational dead weight
Haha.
Before anyone says "But <insert super/sport car manufacturer> uses drilled/grooved disks", I have a response. Drilled and/or grooved disks are mainly used as a bit of eye candy. They look good, so manufacturers play on this making you think you have better brakes on the car.