Uh WOW! That looks to be pretty through trouble shooting ... thanks for sharing.I have checked mine with a multimeter and a vacuum pump. The results I got are out of spec when comparing to the info I found for testing it. I rechecked a number of times but still get the same results. I bench tested the MAP sensor on its own and also tested it on the car connected up. I also tested the ground wire and power supply to the sensor from the ECU side and it checks out fine at 5 volts.
I have a remaining DTC (diagnostic trouble code) number 31 for the MAP sensor which I can't clear and my car is not idling or accelerating well and it also keeps dying after warm up and won't restart on its own without some extra throttle until has cooled down. The only code I have is #31 and either way I don't think the car will run right until this issue is solved. Although if I knew there was some way to repair a MAP sensor then maybe that would work but I have not seen or heard of any repair for them if they are faulty and I believe they are a common issue with these cars. So this is why I am looking for a good MAP sensor that's known to be in good working order so I can be certain of ruling it out as the issue.
No probs, I'm in Ireland and I have been interested in alternatives if it worked safely and correctly but I'm not looking to complicate things any further if possible so I'd rather the original sensor. It just seems more straight forward for my current situation. Are you also having MAP sensor issues?Uh WOW! That looks to be pretty through trouble shooting ... thanks for sharing.
That said it looks like your simplest option is to take "Jay" up on his offer.
But most likely, that may give you a working part that is better than the dead one you have now?? So there is that. Plan B and I have not done it myself ... but it makes sense. Change it over to a GM 3 bar map sensor. It is 5 volts also and has three inputs, I would think all youd need to match the wires up??? And only one of them is (Hot, 5 volts.) It should work as most of the piggy backs and Standalones use the GM 3 bar sensor. But as I said ... I've not done it!
Where are you, are you in the US??? Are parts hard to find where you are???
Cheers Jay, my sensor is the later one for Starlet GT Turbo with part number 89420-10050Hi mate, let me know the part number on your sensor and I'll have a look.
In the meantime...
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That might help troubleshoot.
Thanks for info! And actual working running car is not the best place for my mad plan ... admittedly.in regards to using a GM 3 bar map sensor. this would be a larger range than the standard sensor and throw everything out. whilst it may run, your fuelling and timing would be out. this is fine if you have a different ecu, but not if you have the stock ecu.
a generic 3 pin 2 bar sensor would get you a damn site closer, but without knowing the exact range of the stock sensor you may be a little bit out.
what voltages were you getting at different vacuum/pressure settings? i would have though that if you are getting a linear change between 0v and 5v between -1bar and +1 bar, then even if it is a bit out of tolerance, it should be near enough to run reasonably well? it almost sounds like its not connected. i didnt think map sensors were that prone to failing on toyotas of this era?