Newbie to Glanza's

conlad

Fresh Recruit
How do!

First post on here and thought I'd start my research early haha ;)

I'm 17 at the moment (yeah yeah dreamer blah blah daddy's money :cool:)

Not at all... I've nearly finished my classic mini project; http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/305949_3480608312675_1817423060_n.jpg

And passed my test August and have been driving mum and dads mini round... But as some may know they rust and are a bit slow (great fun though!)... However, I am after something quicker, more efficient and something with an edge... Going through eBay at the usual jap stuff brought up one of these - the Glanza V - and I love them!

£1000 insurance for me with 1 years NCB which I'm chuffed with, I checked that on two Glanza V's so thats all OK.

Few questions though:-

1) How reliable are they? Are they bullet proof typical jap?
2) I know to look for a fairly un-modified one so that the bottom or top end doesn't end up being bodged and blown up.
3) Most modded/semi-modded ones seem to run ~170bhp - what things can I look for that should ring alarm bells? Obviously all parts need to meet the bhp they turn out so things dont go kapput.
4) Bodywork - rust? I'm used to rust on my mini and want to eliminate that from my life haha! A fresh import would be better? But more costly?

Cheers chaps.

Conor
 
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chineyman876

Fresh Recruit
There are clean ones for sale in classifieds on the site....if you are going to buy a modded one check if the car is smoking if the breathers are pushing out excessive oil and if the car is missing run! Lol but if all is well ensure the car has atleast piggy back management and get a good mechanic and tuner to run through the car and tune it
 
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conlad

Fresh Recruit
Cheers lads ;)

I've got a few people I know who tinker with well tuned cars so hopefully thats not a problem!

If I was to look at a car then would a compression test be something worthy of doing?

No rust = :rockon:
 
Im sure any buyer who was nothing to hide wouldnt mind you testing compression

Slightly off topic but how in the name of god at 17 have u managed to insure a v at 17 ? Have u declared any mods that ure tbinking of ? Or if any cars ure looking at have any ? Where abouts you from ? Anyone else on it with you ? Or have u insured it as something its not and defo the turbo version ?
 

conlad

Fresh Recruit
Sweet :)

Noooo I'll buy a V at 18 with one years NCB haha, I wish i could insure a V at 17! Insurance on my mini (998cc with stage 1 kit) is £1700!
 

conlad

Fresh Recruit
Hold on hold on....

On insurance websites I've had a glanza come up as a corolla and many other things... Two different glanzas came up as the same thing which is this:

''TOYOTA STARLET 1998-2000 Petrol 1.3L Manual 3 doors S''

And there is no option for the 'V'

This is the car I got a quote on for £1007.74...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STARLET-G...2687683?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27ce2b96c3

NOW...

I got another quote on this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-st...6341999?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item43b73264ef

And it came back as over £5000! Because it recognises the Glanza 'V'...

Anyone else have the problems of insurance confusions? And the legalities regarding choosing which car is ACTUALLY is...
 

Jay

Admin
If it's a V you need to insure it as a V.

Otherwise you can be prosecuted for no insurance and in the case of an accident the insurance company can refuse to pay out for any damage.

Besides that scary news, welcome to the site, hope it proves useful.

Jay
 

Danza V :D

Member +
When imported however I know it's dogey are insured as just a starlet n/a to save on insurance which is all good but as hay said , have a bump and it could be a hefty price.. Welcome along buddy! I hope you get a glanza sorted and boooost away :) I used to have two minis, money pits both my engines beaded a rebuked due to valve stem seals and the gasket between the block and box :(
 

malcolmgt

Member +
Welcome along :)

1) How reliable are they? Are they bullet proof typical jap? - yeah they are good, only see issues when you start hitting serious power and thats just because bits need replacing but you expect that!

2) I know to look for a fairly un-modified one so that the bottom or top end doesn't end up being bodged and blown up. - good shout, as above do a compression test on it

3) Most modded/semi-modded ones seem to run ~170bhp - what things can I look for that should ring alarm bells? Obviously all parts need to meet the bhp they turn out so things dont go kapput. make sure that if they have up'd the boost that they have the supporting mods not just wound the actuatotr up!

4) Bodywork - rust? I'm used to rust on my mini and want to eliminate that from my life haha! A fresh import would be better? But more costly? - to be honest not noticed loads with lots of rust!
 
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