Rad constantly on/vac tubes/speedo not working etc

[GT_Irl]

Went to see Daniel P's ep70 here in Brisbane this afternoon to see if I could help him out with some of the issues on his car...I wasnt much help lol! Anyway heres some photos and a few questions below for the teckheads on here!

Spec:
Forged 5e
TD04/Mani/Decat
Haltech ECU
Standard injectors
Boosting 0.5 bar at the moment
Frontmount
Relocated filter
Coilpack
3 bar map sensor

Issues he is having:

(1) Speedo not working
(2) Rev counter not working
(3) rough (ish) idle
(4) leaking oil return line
(5) Rad constantly on
(6) bogs down going uphill and occasionally (possible overfueling?)

Anyway he plans to make it into a track car and he has a really good base already, juts need to sort out these issues.

Should there be connectors on these in the photo above?

This is the braided line that is leaking. Can anybody suggest an alternative route for this line to reduce stress on it?

What are these for? Where should they go?

This tube ok? Seems to go from front of inlet mani to back??

This is the wiring around the rad/switch. Can anyone suggest where the plug might be if the aircon was removed? (the one to bridge)

Thanks peeps...rep for more info!

 

[GP82]

I’m guessing you can no longer perform a diagnostics test because of the Haltech ems?..

The rad fan is poss remaining on after removing the A/C. I think you need to bridge pins (don’t know exactly which one’s) in a connector coming off the A/C loom, or you can find the male connector from the other end of the A/C wiring and connect them together.

For the speedo, there is one side that connects on the gearbox which is like a thin cylindrical metal piece and the other end goes behind the instrument dash cluster.

For the rev counter, you will have to do some investigating. I think you are looking for the NE and G signal from the dizzy wiring to the ecu. This set of circuitry works out crank position and rpm, but seeing as your speedo and revs don’t work, check to see if the connectors on the back of the cluster are connected securely.

The green connector on the 1st pic is the cts sensor, you need to find the mating connector to this from the engine loom, the white one in the same pic is for the cluster temp sensor, but the green one need’s to be connected in order for the ecu to work out different engine conditions, the car will not run well without it.

Once you got her sorted and everything works, check the timing is set correctly on the engine. Then I would get a stobe gun and confirm the ignition timing is set correctly. You need to synchronise the engine ignition timing with the haltech ecu, then you should be good to tune.​

 

[GT_Irl]

Bump!