sard fpr or apexi safc

[Glanza_cl]

i'm running a hybrid on stock internals, i'm only running 0.8bar until i can get it mapped on an emange blue but i will be running 200bhp at around 1.1 mayb 1.2 bar accationally.

i'l have two boost setting 1.1 high and 0.8 low for daily driving

1.2-1.3 realy is the max boost on a good condition stock engine

 

[adi271087]

im guna rebuild my old engine. with stock pistons and rods all new bairing and stuff. so once iv run it in 1.1 1.2 will b fine.
i wo thinking same m8 get a hdi ebc and set high boost at say 1.1 and low at .7 .8 for pottering to work

 

[Glanza_cl]

sounds good mate but to be really safe at that kinda boost on stock internals you really need a emb, hks F con piggyback or jam, blitz etc standalone just to get the fueling right.

but yeah perfectly do-able

 

[adi271087]

i ment wit a emb lol forgot to type it lol
guna price build up. cos its alot more doable than forge lol 600 nearly 700 for just pistons/rods
full rebuild standard wnt b that lol

 

[Glanza_cl]

yeah forging can get pricey, but with a standard rebuild, hybrid, emb you will have mint fast car!

 

[adi271087]

with the hybrid tho im thinking hdi intercooler herd nothing but praze for them. for a standard ct9 a bit overkill but for a hybrid i think it will b just right

 

[Glanza_cl]

yeah i run the HDi fmic and yeah awesome bit of kit, big! but good lol

they dont cost much and i ran it on the ct9, always good to have there for when you do upgrade, but if you do it all at the same time (engine rebuild, hybrid, etc) then just wait til then and put a fmic on.

 

[adi271087]

i am m8 just guna potter bout wit engine in at the min then do it all at once.
and scare my mrs shitless she thinks its fast at the min lol
no mods realy just exhaust air filter and coilies.

 

[Gryzor]

sard fpr £120 or apexi safc £135
which would b better im pritty much standard but my boost is set at 1 bar without an ajustable actuator. so need to sort fueling so i can start puting my foot down no tickling it and keeping my ear on boost gauge and staying at 0.6 bar

think this thread lost track of the original question.
Don't get a rrfpr or a apexi safc try using a boost controller so you don't need to do any ear "tickling" ??

 

[adi271087]

boost controller oni highers it. cnt lower it oni actuator can lower it
did get a bit of topic but owel least i dnt need to start another thread lol

 

[Gryzor]

boost controller oni highers it. cnt lower it oni actuator can lower it
did get a bit of topic but owel least i dnt need to start another thread lol

Other way round mate, a boost controller cannot make it boost higher than it is.
A boost controller is used to control the speed (gain) and amount the actuator opens, this allow you to keep the boost at a lower level, unless you get boost creep but that's for another thread.

 

[adi271087]

no its the other way round a ebc/mbc cnt lower the boost ferther than the actuator is set to

 

[97'GlanzaVTurbo]

no its the other way round a ebc/mbc cnt lower the boost ferther than the actuator is set to

Im not the most technical person when it comes to cars but that doesnt make sense to me mate. How can a boost controller allow you to boost more than the actuator is wound to?
Obviously the boost controller controls the boost to whatever you have the boost controller set to otherwise there would be no use for a boost controller surely.
Sure think about it how do you think you can run High and Low boost as standard on these cars?
Christy

 

[Gryzor]

no its the other way round a ebc/mbc cnt lower the boost ferther than the actuator is set to

ok if that is the case, explain how the hi/low turbo button works ?

 

[Glanza_cl]

an ebc cant go any lower then what the actuator is set to

for example you set the actuator at 0.6 the ebc can raise the boost upto say 0.8 but you cant go lower then the 0.6 the actuator is set at

you can set the ebc to be 0.8 low and 1bar high but if the actuator is set at 0.8 you could put the ebc to 0.6 as it cant go any lower then the preset of the actuator.

 

[97'GlanzaVTurbo]

ok if that is the case, explain how the hi/low turbo button works ?

Like I have a Jam Actuator (non adjustable) set to 1 bar and when I press the low boost button...ohhh look 0.5Bar boost and thats with the standard boost solenoid in place never mind a boost controller:homer:
Christy

 

[97'GlanzaVTurbo]

an ebc cant go any lower then what the actuator is set to

for example you set the actuator at 0.6 the ebc can raise the boost upto say 0.8 but you cant go lower then the 0.6 the actuator is set at

you can set the ebc to be 0.8 low and 1bar high but if the actuator is set at 0.8 you could put the ebc to 0.6 as it cant go any lower then the preset of the actuator.

That cant be correct mate for example:

I have a Jam Actuator that is preset at 1Bar however if I press my Lo Boost button the boost doesnt go beyond 0.5Bar so surely that makes what you are saying wrong unless im misunderstanding something??
Christy

 

[Glanza_cl]

i'm sure the jam has two boost levels as it's supposed to work with the glanza's stock high low boost, so on high you get 1bar but you can still use the low boost function and have a lower boost setting. i don't know alot about the jam actuators so i cant really say.

if in doubt try it. every ebc i have had you put the actuator at it's lowest and increase with the ebc.

 

[Gryzor]

i'm sure the jam has two boost levels as it's supposed to work with the glanza's stock high low boost, so on high you get 1bar but you can still use the low boost function and have a lower boost setting. i don't know alot about the jam actuators so i cant really say.

if in doubt try it. every ebc i have had you put the actuator at it's lowest and increase with the ebc.

ok 2 questions
1. how have you set the actuator to its lowest ?
2. or is it the actuator arm to its longest ..?

 

[Glanza_cl]

on a hks actuator widing the arm out as far as it will go (just over 0.5bar)